Hey, I'm engineering student also.. Built my engine with money I earned at summer work (supervising/designing at special vehicles factory) 8) I designed/calculated/simulated/built my engine as my bachelor's thesis.
Maybe not the best thread to ask about, but does anyone know how much powertrain loss these cars have? I've got 14% into my mind from somewhere..?
Anyone actually measured it?
To be honest, that collector looks awful.. Angle is very steep, and it necks down very abruptly, will cause backpressure and restrict flow.. I suggest you cut your header before collector, and let someone do merge type collector for you.
Primaries could also be few inches shorter IMO
I'd definately swap the crank. OR maybe put a helicoil if only one thread is f'ed up, BUT I'd let known-good machine shop put it in. Because all your threads are f'ed, I strongly suggest you to swap that crank, it's not so horrible task considering what will result if your flywheel disengages at, say 8krpm.
I used new OEM flywheel bolts, ARP ones I got were ~10mm too long. Those are not expensive, so I don't see a reason to save a few bucks here..
Map resolution is not a problem. You have 20x16-cell map. I've 12x12 map and it's more than enough even for DD. If you have problems with map resolution, tuner is crappy and doesn't know a shit, and/or you have shitty ECU and injector control. With Honda's ECU, I don't think the latter one I mentioned would be an issue 8)
For me Crower 3 made very good vacuum, almost like with stock cam. It also didn't lope almost at all. But do not remove vacuum manifold, you still need it for FPR and brake booster! Just DO NOT try to tune the engine with Speed-Density (MAP-sensor) based algorithm.