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Discussion Starter #1
hey guys,

about two days ago, on the highway driving, as I sped up to about 110, and switching to make way to the exit lane, I felt quite a snap, little noise of something snapping off, lost drive completely, engine stop working, tachometer at 0rpm, battery light, then oil light came on.

came to a completely stop, the car wont start, first time I had to tow it too.

just last night we took the engine off, and teared it down..

now the top end seems to be fine.. I'm now left with two choices, and the decision making comes again, one way is to put together the B16A sitting around, but costly, and due to a 6 month vehicle inspection regulation, and a engine code stamped on the bottom end of my car, putting in the B16A meaning the cost of $100+usd dollar every 6 months of driving, and that cost can go up or down just depends where to go or who is helping me get thru inspection. I'm leaning towards a high compression SOHC using the P29 piston replacement, fix up the D16Y8. In the future we might consider upgrading stage2 cams, springs, retainers as well, but just wondering if its neccessary to swap the rods, or do I have to use forged internals instead? If I might have plans for a stage2 cam? and fuel pump upgrade or no? are there anything else I need to be careful of before I jump into this repair? It is going to be a DD, so I need reliability as well, what compression ratio should I aim at?

Thanks all in advance!
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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what exactly are you asking? why are you doing 110 on public roads? how did your crankshaft snap?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
what exactly are you asking? why are you doing 110 on public roads? how did your crankshaft snap?
wait, sorry, 110km/h, highway, thats the speed limit for Taiwan highway, forgot to mention. I havent post enough, so I cant post pics yet.

Basically, the crankshaft pully, and the gear behind it, snapped right off the crankshaft. after tearing down the engine, I think it caused the piston to hit the exhaust valves.

I'm hoping to get some insight on weather to build the B16A pieces laying on around, or to rebuild the D16y8. I know all the pros and cons of both, having the D16Y8 engine in the car makes my yearly inspections easier, but when something like this happen, and crankshafts snapped, pistons damaged, what do I really need to be careful of when doing the repairs? anything?
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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find another d16 crank, have it inspected, buy new bearings, and install
 

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Premium Member
95 civic coupe
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That's almost to crazy for a crank to snap like that. Don't waste time and find another block, that or find another swap.
 

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\/Your Mom Was Here\/
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For a D16Y8 I would recommend staying away from P29 pistons, they work better for Z6/A6 style, the Y8 head is better for something flat top. If you are staying NA then you shouldn't need rods, you can always salvage some LS B18 rods and shave the crank end down to fit the D-series and install a bushing for the wrist pin. This will allow stronger rods and still be somewhat light weight. You shouldn't need to upgrade the rods though if you are staying NA, and NA is all about light weight.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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You really want to line bore? Not worth it.... and sketch. Just get another block.
to drop in another crank? I did that with my build when my crank was no good. got one from neon
 

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Retired From Hondas
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These cranks can handle boost past 300hp.. how the fuck does one snap?


Anyways, I would just source another engine. Lke said 5 times ^^up there
 

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EG8
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Title and description is misleading. Along with the speed.

Include your location on your profile or we won't compensate for your region in our responses.

But if you "broke" the pulley and the timing belt gear, yes the valves and pistons will hit.

But define broke... And host pictures at imageshack.us or something and post them here.

You could have lost the big bolt a while back and the pulley and belt gear could have wiggled off since there is literally only a tiny square piece holding it and friction... But if the keyway is no longer square, just get a new crank. Can only comment on the block after pictures...

This thread could have turned to shit fast honestly.
 

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Never heard of a honda crankshaft snapping. Must have been a gem of a crank.
 

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Only crank that I have had break cracked in the middle main journal - brand new crank in a race motor turning 8600 RPM - tore the motor down after 4 hours of run time (first time using a brand new crank, had always used seasoned cranks before) and found the center main cracked halfway though...never used a brand new crank after that and have never had one break since then.
 

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Damn some of your are really dickheads, who cares his speed,

Yes they do break, had a rod journal bust off at the counter weight.

Line bore throws off the oil pump gear.

You guys are ridiculous
 

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Damn some of your are really dickheads, who cares his speed,

Yes they do break, had a rod journal bust off at the counter weight.

Line bore throws off the oil pump gear.

You guys are ridiculous
^^
An OEM engine from honda thats unmolested?
 

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ej8
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Never heard of a honda crankshaft snapping. Must have been a gem of a crank.
Yea 2x

It must of been rusted to hell.
I can understand the pulley coming lose and eatting the snout, but the crank end just snapping is pretty hard to just iamge happening from just driving
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hey guys, the engine was removed from the car, I have pictures of it, but I cant post cuz it keeps saying my post count is 0..

anyone I can send them to someone so they can post them up for me?
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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post the link to the image with a space in it and I will come back and edit it to work, or upload it to an image hosting site and use the img url here
 
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