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Discussion Starter #1
So, a friend locked up his motor and I picked up some stuff from his build. It's a cheap XS Power T3 that has the specs listed here. My original intentions were to just toss it on my CRX I'm doing a restomod build on for a little low end grunt on low boost. For a Chinese turbo, it spooled very quick on jon_akers' old sedan, and I've got next to nothing tied up in it now.

Well, my mind wanders a lot of times...I got to thinking, how perfect would this turbo be on a moderate compression D for my autocross build. I wouldn't have to add much weight from where I am now to get back to the weight minimum penalty of FI. Problem here is I haven't even installed all the mFactory and synchrotech goodies in my B16 trans. While I've got tons of good D-series parts still (including a spare 76mm block already machined), I'd have to order another large sum of cash-worth of trans parts for my D since my ZC diff wouldn't hold up. But, I could go a little wilder on cams on my GSR and rock it in my restomod DD, right?

TL;DR

Later my brain wandered further, and what brings me to my question I posed in the title; what if I cut out the middle man, er motor, and use this turbo on my GSR? I know it's small, but I'm not really worried about maybe more than 7-8psi to really just insta-spool and give it some grunt down low. I worry it would choke out up top. If I go this route, I'm going to use my LS 1-2 with B16 3-4 to give more mph in 2nd. Would I still be able to turn it to 8500 with this turbo? I'm still a turbo noob lol.
 

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The key to using a small turbo is either cranking the pressure or keeping backpressure very low. If you keep boost low, it will still make more power than NA. It's max flow is 31 lb/min vs a 50trim t04e wheel's 46 lb/min, so your GSR motor won't exactly make LESS power. A .63ar turbine would be more ideal, but I've seen B16's, LS's, and GSR's with very crappy setups make an extra 50-75hp over stock and a lot more mid-range torque with very simple (read: crappy) kits. I know from using one on a D16, it's a great turbo if you want a bit more power but can't have lag. Using the same turbo, I made 160whp/140wtq at 6psi on a 8:1 CR D16Z6 with a stock cat-back exhaust (1 7/8").

The link below shows a small T3 & t25 on Miata 1.6L & 1.8L motors.

~200 rwhp and a usable torque curve. How do I get there? - Miata Forumz - Mazda Miata Chat Forums

Think about the numbers & put them into perspective. Those motors are lucky to make 120whp NA, but are now making 200whp before 6k rpm. Torque on the 1.6L is over 200 by 3200rpm! If you have a stock B18C1 in good health, it will be making maybe 160whp by 7k and 120wtq. A built GSR will be making 200whp at 8k and 150wtq if you're lucky. I can give you a real-world scenario - using a slighly larger turbo & better kit making 189whp & 160wtq, that same D16 from above walked all over my friend's USDM Type-R that made 193whp the same day on the same dyno. He had the USDM ITR trans while I had a shitty DX trans. He damn near sold the car that day because of me, lol.
 

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I too picked up a small Garrett .42/.48 new for free. And since I am a turbo noob as well I will be running it until I get some knowledge. Sure its not an ideal turbo, and everyone mentioned a quick spool with no top end. But it didn't cost me anything so if it sucks so bad that it drives me crazy then at least Ill be able to find comfort in knowing that I don't have any real money into it.

If you're like me and just enjoy a good project, then Id do it. But if you're looking to make real power you'll probably want to listen to all the turbo guru's.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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Little Greddy SOHC turbo on a stock B18 is fun and PLENTY of midrange torque....ran 12.5's short shifting....
 

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the artist formerly known as drexelstudent11
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consider that 2L DSMs came with t25s stock and then realize there's no way a bigger T3 will be "too small" for low boost on a 1.8L ;)
 

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im running the DSM T25 and its perfect for a daily driver. I see 10psi at 3,000rpm. the car comes out of corners real fast. im running vitara pistons with shaved Z6 head, compression is probally a lil under 8:1 but in my gutted crx you wouldn't notice. top end isn't too great which is why I picke dup a TD05H-16G and delta 260 regrind on a Y7 cam. im also converting my Z6 head to a notec setup with Y7 cam+gear and lifters...
 

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im running the DSM T25 and its perfect for a daily driver. I see 10psi at 3,000rpm. the car comes out of corners real fast. im running vitara pistons with shaved Z6 head, compression is probally a lil under 8:1 but in my gutted crx you wouldn't notice. top end isn't too great which is why I picke dup a TD05H-16G and delta 260 regrind on a Y7 cam. im also converting my Z6 head to a notec setup with Y7 cam+gear and lifters...
Why the notec? Ease of tuning?
 

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the artist formerly known as drexelstudent11
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im running the DSM T25 and its perfect for a daily driver. I see 10psi at 3,000rpm. the car comes out of corners real fast. im running vitara pistons with shaved Z6 head, compression is probally a lil under 8:1 but in my gutted crx you wouldn't notice. top end isn't too great which is why I picke dup a TD05H-16G and delta 260 regrind on a Y7 cam. im also converting my Z6 head to a notec setup with Y7 cam+gear and lifters...
are you sure the delta 260 actually has more lift than the z6 cam?

I seriously don't understand why people do this. I know beav hates sohc vtec (for at least one valid reason, the valve and plug placement is inferior to the PM3 casting) but you're giving that up already using the z6 casting and losing the advantage of vtec in the process
 

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I prefer the simplicity of not having VTEC and im going with the Z6 head cause I already have it on the motor.

as for the cam as long as its better than the stock Y7 cam im ok with that, its suppose to have .400" lift.

to be honest if I could go back I would have skipped doing the VTEC conversion and just boost the motor. but im glad I did do the VTEC conversion otherwise I would have never known the motor had PM7 pistons installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
The key to using a small turbo is either cranking the pressure or keeping backpressure very low. If you keep boost low, it will still make more power than NA. It's max flow is 31 lb/min vs a 50trim t04e wheel's 46 lb/min, so your GSR motor won't exactly make LESS power. A .63ar turbine would be more ideal, but I've seen B16's, LS's, and GSR's with very crappy setups make an extra 50-75hp over stock and a lot more mid-range torque with very simple (read: crappy) kits. I know from using one on a D16, it's a great turbo if you want a bit more power but can't have lag. Using the same turbo, I made 160whp/140wtq at 6psi on a 8:1 CR D16Z6 with a stock cat-back exhaust (1 7/8").

The link below shows a small T3 & t25 on Miata 1.6L & 1.8L motors.

~200 rwhp and a usable torque curve. How do I get there? - Miata Forumz - Mazda Miata Chat Forums

Think about the numbers & put them into perspective. Those motors are lucky to make 120whp NA, but are now making 200whp before 6k rpm. Torque on the 1.6L is over 200 by 3200rpm! If you have a stock B18C1 in good health, it will be making maybe 160whp by 7k and 120wtq. A built GSR will be making 200whp at 8k and 150wtq if you're lucky. I can give you a real-world scenario - using a slighly larger turbo & better kit making 189whp & 160wtq, that same D16 from above walked all over my friend's USDM Type-R that made 193whp the same day on the same dyno. He had the USDM ITR trans while I had a shitty DX trans. He damn near sold the car that day because of me, lol.
Well, mine's 11.5:1 with some very mild cams with a lot of intake lift, so I think it would spool super fast. Like I said, it'd be low boost just to get some low/mid range for autox. Biggest downside is I'd need to gain some weight and I worry my 225 R comps won't be enough out of tight turns.

plot a graph. It helped me tons doing so.
I don't know what to look it up to plot it. I did that back when I had a 14B, but I knew what to search for online and followed our DIY on here.

Put a 4.9 FD in and use 2-3....looks at this MFactory 4.9 92-01 I have sitting here.....
Hahaha, A.) I would suck even worse shifting and B.) if you're hinting, my trans is a J1 88-91 style.

This was just a thought that went through my head...now if I could find someone to trade me a higher CR D that's turbo ready for a bunch of B series stuff...;)

Edit: Worst case, I keep running NA and put this thing on my other CRX with the HKS exhaust to keep it super quiet to give it some punch around town.
 

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So, a friend locked up his motor and I picked up some stuff from his build. It's a cheap XS Power T3 that has the specs listed here. My original intentions were to just toss it on my CRX I'm doing a restomod build on for a little low end grunt on low boost. For a Chinese turbo, it spooled very quick on jon_akers' old sedan, and I've got next to nothing tied up in it now.

Well, my mind wanders a lot of times...I got to thinking, how perfect would this turbo be on a moderate compression D for my autocross build. I wouldn't have to add much weight from where I am now to get back to the weight minimum penalty of FI. Problem here is I haven't even installed all the mFactory and synchrotech goodies in my B16 trans. While I've got tons of good D-series parts still (including a spare 76mm block already machined), I'd have to order another large sum of cash-worth of trans parts for my D since my ZC diff wouldn't hold up. But, I could go a little wilder on cams on my GSR and rock it in my restomod DD, right?

TL;DR

Later my brain wandered further, and what brings me to my question I posed in the title; what if I cut out the middle man, er motor, and use this turbo on my GSR? I know it's small, but I'm not really worried about maybe more than 7-8psi to really just insta-spool and give it some grunt down low. I worry it would choke out up top. If I go this route, I'm going to use my LS 1-2 with B16 3-4 to give more mph in 2nd. Would I still be able to turn it to 8500 with this turbo? I'm still a turbo noob lol.
really having a small turbo can benefit you (lower rpm spool up) and to reach hp goals just turn the psi up (only good for 200-250hp after that you might need some motor work) I MAY NOT BE 100% accurate but thats what ive heard
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Lightly used MFactory 94-01 GSR 4.93 FD sitting on the shelf....just teasing.....
-_-

too much pressure and you will overspin the turbo and blow too much hot air.
It wouldn't see much, the GSR is on stock rods with ARP fasteners and cast PR3 pistons, so about 11.5:1 cr.

And when this was on my friend's old sedan, we ran it at 16psi. It was probably a bit out of its efficiency range but IAT's never were a problem.
 
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