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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've been lurking around since 2007, and have always wanted a boosted Honda. Since I finally got a new job, I decided to pull the trigger and buy a 2000 DX hatch, with a y7 in it. My plan is to build this car, on a moderate budget, into a time attack car for lapping nights at my local circuits, and the occasional drag night.

I've done a bunch of reading, but nothing beats discussing with people who have experience. I've put together a tentative parts list for my build, and would appreciate some feedback on anything that I've missed, done wrong, or done right. Keep in mind that I'm on a budget, meanwhile this is my first turbo build. I've also included rough prices, so if anyone knows of a better deal please let me know!
My power goal is to be between 270-320hp with a relatively quick spooling turbo. The parts list is as follows, thanks for any feedback!

Turbo stuff

First thing is that I've decided to go with a Go-Autoworks kit, not only because of the rave reviews, but for simplicitys sake since I'm not one for doing fab work to force things to fit. I'm torn, however, between a T3 60 or T3/T4 45trim. Since it's a lapping build, I want a wider power band, but dont necessarily want to fade up top. I don't plan on reving beyond 7000rpm, so my assumption is that a smaller turbo would work best. Thoughts?

Tuner Kit (2300$+SHD Go-Autoworks)
-Manifold
-Downpipe
-Dumptube
-Turbo
-Wastegate
-BOV
-Oiling kit
-Charge piping
-Intercooler
-Couples and T-bolt clamps
-Turbo (GT28)

Wideband (210$ AEM UEGO O2 Shoptoit.ca)(199$ Summit)
Oil pressure, boost gauges (Courtesy Awebb)
Exhaust (285 pacesetter on summit ish)
ECU (P06 chipped) 175 Xenocron
Moates Deamon (250$ Xenocron)(399 with ectune)
Conversion Harness (74$ Xenocron)
Injectors (279$ Precision Injectors 550CC high empedence Xenocron)
Catch can/valve cover venting
Boost controller (73$ Electronic Go-Autoworks)
Air Filter (75$ Go-Autoworks)
3 BAR MAP sensor???

The bottom end rebuild has been more or less done to death on here, not too many questions. I plan to have a machine shop bore/hone and re-assemble my bottom end for me, and I'll do the head work myself. I plan to port match and do a mild polish on the y7 head, and possibly go with a Delta 272 regrind if I still have money at that stage in the project. The question, though, is how to asssure good oiling for the bottom end, but not create too much pressure for the turbo. Besides a mild port/port match of the oil pump is anything else necessary on a y7?

Motor
Rebuild kit (600$ FJT+SHD) Ordered
-FJ R Spec Custom Length D16 I Beam Connecting Rods
-ARP 2000 3/8" Rod Bolts
-ARP Lube
-YCP Vitara pistons (75.5mm)
-Wrist pins and C clips
-Piston rings (Hastings or NPR)
-OEM Timing Belt
-Japanese Water Pump
-ACL Rod Bearings
-ACL Main Bearings
-ACL or King Thrust washers
-Full engine Gasket & Seals set--> Its all the gaskets and seals you will need for your engine from the oil pan and up to the head.Metal 3 layer Head gasket (approx .030 thickness)
Intake manifold y8
ARP Head studs (96$+SHD FJT)
Home made P&P
Bore/Hone/Assemblage
Motor mounts (eBay)
Fuel pump (Walbro 255lph ) In Tank (Awebb!)
Cam gear (Rage cam gear)
Intake Manifold (used y8 )
Oil cooler http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-3951/
DC2 full aluminum rad (Go-Autoworks)

Transmission
LSD (Mfactory from WhoopeeDoo)
Clutch (LSD Tuner Clutch Kit w/ Street Disk $244.00 for 212mm clutches)

What did I miss? Pick this apart, I'll be posting pics of all the parts and the work as it happens, so this thread should be ongoing. Car switches hands next weekend if all goes well!
 

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Get the 45 trim.


I took my 63 trim to the canyons a couple of times and I hated it. Itll work if you are really good at driving and can manage to always stay at high rpm's.
 

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In all honesty why dont you Auto cross the car as is with the stock Y7?? A boosted Honda, specially at almost 300hp wont be a good learning car at Auto x. Practice as is then build as you go.
Going there with the most built and fastest car there with no driving experience will make you look like a complete tool. Its also gonna be pretty embarassing when the EG with a Z6 and lowering springs gets better times than you.
Hone your skills at driving, then go from there.


You dont need an oil pressure gauge and a high flow cat. The only time youre going to use your oil pressure gauge is when your motor blows. Get a boost gauge and call it a day. High flow cat? No such thing only resonators. If youre going for a quiet exhaust, know that turbos act as resonators and lower your decibel rating.


ps: Good luck finding ACL bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the reply!
I've already done some AutoX in my Subaru, but I want to preserve that for a daily driver and use the Civic as a weekend warrior so to speak.

In terms of the head, will a stock y7 head with nothing but a mild port match/port and polish be my major restriction? Will the cam?

Like I said, I'm hoping to get a wider powerband, and am curious if anyone can identify where the "bottleneck" or restriction in the power would be.

Also, I know a fuel pump is a must, but why is there an in pump and in line listing for Walbro 255lph? Which is recommended? The in line is significantly cheaper than the in tank pump.
 

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Motor mounts I'd just to inserts, Cam gear (rage racing, Skunk 2, or at least something with a good 5 bolt design, none of this 3 bolt mess). Everything else looks good.

If you're interested I've got an oil pressure and Boost gage out in the garage I'd sell for not that much, both are black faced autometer's that are still NIB. And I've got a couple Walbro 255lph pumps I've been meaning to get rid of.

If you're interested PM me and I'll hook you up.
 

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In lines are frequently used by people with carbs who want to ditch the mechanical fuel pump. Im sure there are more uses for it but thats the most popular one ive heard.

Get the in-tank, its a no brainer.

If you want a wider power band ditch the Y7 head and go for a Y8. The Y8 red lines about 400RPM's higher than the Y7 and although it doesnt seem very much, those 400RPM's come in handy since youll be in boost longer. People make plenty of power with a stock Y7/Y8 head with no machining work. So I would read more into that if I were you and see if you really need it. A Y7 head can be boosted but itll be worth it to do the Y8 head swap.
 

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Motor mounts I'd just to inserts, Cam gear (rage racing, Skunk 2, or at least something with a good 5 bolt design, none of this 3 bolt mess). Everything else looks good.

If you're interested I've got an oil pressure and Boost gage out in the garage I'd sell for not that much, both are black faced autometer's that are still NIB. And I've got a couple Walbro 255lph pumps I've been meaning to get rid of.

If you're interested PM me and I'll hook you up.
With that much power, dont go with inserts.

This website has a weird fascination with inserts, and I have no idea why. Go solid mounts you wont regret it. Inserts cant compare to the feel solid mounts by Innovative/HaSport/Avid give you. I have solid tranny and driver mounts, but on my rear I have Energy Suspensions inserts and the mount snapped after about a year of 210whp.

I have $100 solid mounts from eBay and I love them.
 

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auto xing a boosted honda isant easy iv tryed u realy have to know ur car and keep high rpms or have a litle turbo to spool fast i had a gt28r on my si ef hatch did work was jus hard
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
If you're interested I've got an oil pressure and Boost gage out in the garage I'd sell for not that much, both are black faced autometer's that are still NIB. And I've got a couple Walbro 255lph pumps I've been meaning to get rid of.

If you're interested PM me and I'll hook you up.
PM'd!!

With that much power, dont go with inserts.
I have $100 solid mounts from eBay and I love them.
Link/name of those? I'm on a budget, and things without moving parts (ie. mounts) is about the only thing I'm comfortable buying from e-bay. Nice to save some money, though.

auto xing a boosted honda isant easy iv tryed u realy have to know ur car and keep high rpms or have a litle turbo to spool fast i had a gt28r on my si ef hatch did work was jus hard
I'm not planning to AutoX in this car, I'm planning to do lapping on road courses, cornering in boost is difficult, although I think it should be a fun challenge. Thanks for the advice, though!

Also: did anyone notice if I was missing any pieces to the puzzle?
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Sorry for the double post, came up with a new round of questions.

If I vent my valve cover, or install a catch can, will I need to worry about building pressure inside the block? I've read mentions of PCV here and there, I'm guessing that you run one vaccum line from the PCV valve to the catch can, and the other to the valve cover? Can someone confirm this? Would having two fittings welded (or JBWeld'ed) to the valve cover have the same effect?

Second, in order to run an oil pressure gauge, will I need an oil sandwich plate? If not what is the purpose of people running an oil sandwich? Will that bump up my oil pressure?

Finally, I've read that y8s are known for having oiling issues. How are y7 blocks? Do I need to worry about porting my oil pump? A few guys here making huge numbers on y7 blocks have non-ported oil pumps, what's suggested?
 

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Sorry for the double post, came up with a new round of questions.

If I vent my valve cover, or install a catch can, will I need to worry about building pressure inside the block? I've read mentions of PCV here and there, I'm guessing that you run one vaccum line from the PCV valve to the catch can, and the other to the valve cover? Can someone confirm this? Would having two fittings welded (or JBWeld'ed) to the valve cover have the same effect?

I have no idea, I never ran a catch can.


Second, in order to run an oil pressure gauge, will I need an oil sandwich plate? If not what is the purpose of people running an oil sandwich? Will that bump up my oil pressure?

Yes you can if you want.
Most T adapters that people use to feed the turbo oil, have 3 connections. So you can use one for oil, one for the pressure gauge, and the last for oil pressure sensor


Finally, I've read that y8s are known for having oiling issues. How are y7 blocks? Do I need to worry about porting my oil pump? A few guys here making huge numbers on y7 blocks have non-ported oil pumps, what's suggested?

D's are known for that. A Y7 block is just as likely to blow as a Y8. Make sure your engine always has 4 quarts of oil.
.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I was re-reading your earlier post and noticed you mentioned that I wont need a cat. The reason I included this was to avoid harassment from the po-lice. Wont a straight pipe fail inspections?

Also, why good luck finding ACL bearings? FJT doesn't stock them anymore?

Finally, to shim or not to shim the oil pump? Do I need the increase in oil pressure?
 

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If you are going to be running lapping sessions with more than 2-3 laps in a turbo civic, you NEED to prioritize cooling. You can never get too much cooling. Start with getting a fullsize alu radiator and a decent oil cooler, and make sure they get good airflow, then worry about getting the turbo setup to fit. Oil temp gauge is good to have. Oil pressure gauge can be useful too, when you see the pressure starts to get lower, you know its time to get into the pits and let things cool down. Make sure when you tune it that the tuner uses the ECT cut feature that most obd1 programs has, so that when you forget to watch the gauge, the car will remind you.

I'd consider a bb turbo. I've tried a straight t3 50 trim, t3/t04 46 trim and a bb gt2560r. The insta-spool feature of the bb turbo is worth it imo. Some kind of a gt28rs would suit your goals, I'm going to use on myself this season. Maybe a gt2871 to get some extra headroom, but it has larger wheels, so I'm not sure how the spooling caracteristics is compared to the smaller gt28rs.

And you will probably want some fat r-comps to get the front wheels to bite in the slow corners.

I've been lapping mhy turbo civic for three years now, and the biggest problems I've seen has been not enough cooling and cracked manifolds. We have pretty similar build and goals, so you might want to take a look at my thread, its in my sig :)
 

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ACL is in the hands of the receiver after declaring voluntary liquidation.

The receiver has decided to continue trading at the present.
 

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I was re-reading your earlier post and noticed you mentioned that I wont need a cat. The reason I included this was to avoid harassment from the po-lice. Wont a straight pipe fail inspections?

Also, why good luck finding ACL bearings? FJT doesn't stock them anymore?

Finally, to shim or not to shim the oil pump? Do I need the increase in oil pressure?
If youre worried about emissions then dont turbo your car. Boosted cars (non OEM) will burn through a cat and make it useless for emissions testing. Even at that, high flow cats will not pass testing.
Keep all of your OEM parts for smog check, then when necessary install everything.

Ive given a hand in 3 Honda engine rebuilds in the past year and everytime they gave us King bearings and they said they havent received ACL bearings in a while and arent sure when they will start getting them again.

And you will probably want some fat r-comps to get the front wheels to bite in the slow corners.

I've been lapping mhy turbo civic for three years now, and the biggest problems I've seen has been not enough cooling and cracked manifolds. We have pretty similar build and goals, so you might want to take a look at my thread, its in my sig :)
Fat R comps ALL AROUND ;)


Would you say those cracked manifolds are due to cooling or just excessive heat from the track?
 

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You will learn a lot more about your car, and car control in general if you learn how to drive on street tires. Once you are fast and consistent on street tires, then step up to r-comps.
 

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I dislike the AEM wideband. Immensely.

Y-series cranks and oil pumps are the issue, not the blocks. If you want a reliable bottom end, get a Z6 or A6 bottom end.

If you don't listen to the suggestions being made on this thread, you will have fun, but absolutely be uncompetitive. If you think you may ever want to be competitive, you'll want to do as the gentlemen suggest.

A BB turbo should absolutely be your priority. You will kick yourself the first time you try to drive with a larger journal bearing turbo when you get the turbo coming on in the middle of a turn, causing the front end to walk off the line.

You'll also probably NEED traction bars.

Have fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
If you are going to be running lapping sessions with more than 2-3 laps in a turbo civic, you NEED to prioritize cooling. You can never get too much cooling. Start with getting a fullsize alu radiator and a decent oil cooler, and make sure they get good airflow, then worry about getting the turbo setup to fit. Oil temp gauge is good to have. Oil pressure gauge can be useful too, when you see the pressure starts to get lower, you know its time to get into the pits and let things cool down. Make sure when you tune it that the tuner uses the ECT cut feature that most obd1 programs has, so that when you forget to watch the gauge, the car will remind you.

I'll definitely add a full size rad and oil cooler to my build list as suggested by yourself and a few others. I've read through your thread, and seen a few of your videos. Love your setup, I'll have to read through it again to see what else I can take from it.

I'd consider a bb turbo. I've tried a straight t3 50 trim, t3/t04 46 trim and a bb gt2560r. The insta-spool feature of the bb turbo is worth it imo. Some kind of a gt28rs would suit your goals, I'm going to use on myself this season. Maybe a gt2871 to get some extra headroom, but it has larger wheels, so I'm not sure how the spooling caracteristics is compared to the smaller gt28rs.
I'll see what Go-Autoworks has to offer.
If youre worried about emissions then dont turbo your car. Boosted cars (non OEM) will burn through a cat and make it useless for emissions testing. Even at that, high flow cats will not pass testing.
Frankly, I don't care about emissions, and there is no (yet) smog check in Quebec. I was talking about getting pulled over by the police and having them check out to see if my setup is "legal". Although this is unlikely, it would be nice to fool them if it were to happen.

Would you say those cracked manifolds are due to cooling or just excessive heat from the track?
You will learn a lot more about your car, and car control in general if you learn how to drive on street tires. Once you are fast and consistent on street tires, then step up to r-comps.
I plan to start on a good street tire, IE. Ecsta Spt, and then move into something stickier. That being said, I'll be starting a tires thread in the near future.

There has been mention about using King bearings vs ACL, is the difference in quality that huge?
 
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