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Discussion Starter #1
Figured I would write up my own review on these and update as time goes on. Noticed someone else had a review but they didn't give any useful info, didn't even mention which kit they had.

Just purchased a set of Skunk2 Pro Series front camber kit for my '91 Civic Si. The car is built and used only for SCCA STC autox events. It's mainly driven to and from events but on rare occasions I have to take it to work which means hitting some really rough D.C. roads... So these will get used and abused a fair amount between hundreds of autox runs in a season and some really bad roads.

Before I move on, I'll say that I was not too happy to purchase the Skunk2 kit. For some reason other companies like Buddy Club and whatnot don't make kits for the 4th gen civic/crx's. So I was left to decide between the $500 ProPartsUSA camber kits, the Skunk2 kit which cost me $198 shipped, or the AMR kit that has been advertised on HT but has not been put up for sale yet(for the 4th gens) which would be a minimum of $195 shipped. Not wanting to shell out $500 for this or wait who knows how long before the AMR kit is up for sale, I went with Skunk2..

On to the kit. On first sight, I must say Skunk2 sure put a lot of attention to detail...for the box... I mean great, fancy box and packaging with a pamphlet showing off some of their products and cars, but who cares. For the arms themselves, the design and quality appears to be pretty good I must say. Arms that keep a fairly similar design as the OE ones(unlike some that do a tubular arm) and seems to be at the very least strudy enough for abuse. But lets face it, the ball joint is the focus for these kits. Appears to be pretty good. Their updated design seems pretty good compared to their competitors. But ball joint longevity is the question. Only time and abuse will tell... So I'll get back to that as time goes on.
ignore the B&M shifter...


So on to installation. I ran into a little problem when installing the arms. When I bolted and torqued the bolts for the pivot point, then went to slide the studs up through the shock tower, the studs did NOT line up with the holes for the shock tower. What I found happening with these arms is that when you tighten the pivot bolts, the metal piece(gold part with the bushings/studs) would acutally bind outwards. That bind would misalign the studs for the holes in the shock tower. This was the case for both arms on each side. Sooo what I had to do is take a pry bar and press against one of the studs and push it up through the hole at the same time. A little bit of a PITA but it fit, barely. So not too happy having to force the arms onto the shock tower rather than easily sliding them in. But, not surprised either..


So everything was installed and torqued. The only main concern I have for these arms is the ball joint sliding after my alignment is set. They claim to have redesigned the ball joint and use bolts that won't loosen. Regardless, I'll be keeping a very close eye on them and report.


All in all, I don't have a big problem suggesting these arms to anyone, so far. Seems like they've done a pretty good job with the design on these. I'll be back later on to update how these are holding up after some autox events and miles put on them.
 

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honduh
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I've had mine on for about 3k miles and no problems so far. I read other reviews and some people hate them. This made me hesitant at first. I bought them anyways because they where one of the only kits made for an ed. I'm happy with mine.
 

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I wouldnt recommend them unless they have improved their ball joint design. I had one of the ball joints fail on me after only two track days, though this was several years ago so perhaps they have improved. It was also for an EG not an EF but I doubt the ball joint construction is vastly different

Somewhat recently I had a customer order a set from me who had the same issue as you when trying to install them. Only his was so far out of spec that he couldnt force it into the shock tower if he tried.

I wound up getting a Skunk2 rep involved to solve the issue, it was made worse by the fact he lived in France and I am in WA. He did not want to have to pay for shipping costs due to the defective product.

I will say Skunk2 replaced the part for him, he kept the defective part and they shipped him a replacement to France with no shipping charges. I felt it was only right they do this but most companies will not cover shipping, especially not overseas.

Also, make sure you loctite the nuts that hold the shock tower studs into the arms. I had them vibrate loose on me after the first track day I used them.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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I have a set that needs the balljoints replaced, old design with 7k miles on them, Junk2 wanted nothing to help me. I could get NEW design balljoints AT COST from them and not through a distributor.

They can still work loose. There is a write-up somewhere to stop this from happening.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
These are their newest design, different balljoint design and new bolts. They claim to have fixed the issues they had with their older designs with this arm. I knew all about the ball joints sliding, failures with the ball joints themselves, etc.. Which is all why I did not like that I had pretty much no other choice but to go with these. I haven't heard of any real negative reviews to come out of these newer arms so we will see.
 

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Keep us posted, I'm curious to see how they hold up so I can continue to recommend or not recommend them accordingly.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Will do. I'll probably be checking the alignment every 2 months at least to make sure things are where I want them to be.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well I've put about 250 street miles and just this past Sunday, 4 autox runs on them. I've been keeping a close eye on the arms, particularly the 4 bolts that hold the ball joint in place. I did an alignment on it Friday night and set the front camber at -2.8*. At the autox, I switch wheels/tires from my street set to my autox set. So doing so, I checked the bolts before and after my runs and inspected the arms. The bolts seem ok, I would just crank them a tiny bit to make sure they didn't loosen up and seems like they held just fine. But looking at the arms, I noticed something. It appears the arm running from the hub up to the ball joint is just slightly rubbing against the Skunk2 control arm. I noticed this the first time when I was first switching wheels which meant they were rubbing even driving on the street. My car is not extremely low by any means and -2.8* camber is a decent amount, but these control arms are capable of giving me even more negative camber. However, with it rubbing, I'm not so sure how well that would work out...


Here is a picture of what I'm talking about. Notice the missing paint on the bottom middle of the control arm, it's the same on the other arm. Disregard the black spots, I believe that is bits of rubber since I took this after my autox runs.


So it appears yet again there is some sort of fitment issue with these Skunk2 arms. First the terrible fitment of the shock tower studs and now this. Honestly I'm not surprised at all, but still a little bit disappointing. I'll continue to monitor these things and update.
 

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Thank you for the update. I ordered their LCA awhile back and have yet to install them. This scares me a little bit being that you have had trouble with their product. Makes me think that I will have problems with mine.
 

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90 CRX Si
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Hmmm. I've considered switching out my Ingalls and replacement arms for some of these because they're a PITA to adjust. A friend had what I suppose to be the previous design and I think he has issues with them hitting the upper fender.
 

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formerly allnaturalrex
1989 honda crx si
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dammit and i was looking to buy some new ones for 150 i might pass now .
 

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91 CRX Si
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*knocks on wood
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Bump. Just a little update. I've put about 22 hard AutoX runs on them and probably around 600 street miles(the roads around here are harsh as hell) since the last post. I switch from my street wheels/tires to my race wheels/tires for every event. When I do so, I always check the 4 screws on the ball joint to see if any of them have loosened up at any point. So far, all of the bolts are holding strong, none have loosened up at all. Maybe me check how tight they are by giving them a little crank every single time the wheels come off is helping, but either way so far they seem to be holding up well.

Nothing else to really show picture wise, all looks the same as the pictures above still. But here's an action shot and a still from a couple of the events and a video.


WDCR Event 1 4-13-13 - YouTube
 

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im running these too and i live in wisconsin and the roads are sh*t and there holding up good so far!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Car looks great man! Do you have any issues with them contacting the top of the wheel well hitting bumps or anything?
No issue with it hitting the shock tower. I hit the bump stops before the arms would hit the shock tower.
 

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My civic
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For anybody who is interested, I recently came across some nice, slightly cheaper than Junk2 Upper arms. Read the review here....

DME UCA
 

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Discussion Starter #20
For anybody who is interested, I recently came across some nice, slightly cheaper than Junk2 Upper arms. Read the review here....

DME UCA
Only problem is, just like a number of the other companies, they don't offer arms for the 4th gens... Even though for some reason they have "crx" listed, it's under 92-95 which the crx's stopped at '91 :screwy:
 
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