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Discussion Starter #1
I am looking to go turbo, I have most of the parts in mind, but since I own a DX, I know there is a bastard pipe bend that needs to be addressed because of the intake manifold. I already have eliminated the mini-me swap, as after reading several non-vtec vs vtec threads it seems not worthwhile unless going for a full build. I have noticed on many dyno charts sourced from Evans-Tuning.com that the Skunk2 manifold seems to be a popular choice with most peoples turbo setups. I plan on using the Autoworks Tuner Stage 1 setup, haven't decided on the a/r yet but I believe using this manifold will let me use the turbo kit without any other issues. Shooting for over 200whp which I feel can easily be attained, and I have the tuner to do it. Thanks in advance to the people who help.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
See why do you have you be a jerk. I asked a question, a question I didn't find the answer for. I obviously have a clue what I am trying to do and just need a little insight with figuring out the induction part of the equation and you act like every other forum jackass. If you don't know the answer, don't type ban in. It doesn't make you look any more intelligent on the topic.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I made 201 whp on a 1.5 mini me,i ran a edlebrock intake though on 9 pounds.
Is there a difference in the edlebrock unit vs the skunk2? I believe they make two styles of intake manifolds, which edlebrock unit did you go with? I am just under the impression that the upgraded intake manifold will help me hold power on the top end and seeing I am going with a small turbo I wanna keep the power up as long as I can. Thanks for the input.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
1) edelbrock makes only one type of manifold for the d
2) the edelbrock IM has shorter runners, which are better for boost
3) ban
Thanks for answering my question. But the ban comment is pretty lame. Yea I am new, but you don't need to treat every new member like an child.
 

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Thanks for answering my question. But the ban comment is pretty lame. Yea I am new, but you don't need to treat every new member like an child.
lol, so did you neg rep me or pos rep me? can't tell cause its grey since you have no rep power.

btw, the ban part was a joke. only cause you reacted to the way ratt posted "ban" as a comment. and there is a reason for it, if you had searched you would have come up with threads dealing with this subject already. :haha:

edit: to specific there are 419 threads on the subject ;). but i am not going to help you search anymore, cause i don't feel like it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I am not familiar with D-series motors, I have never even owned a car with one. This is my first go with a d-series motor so I am not sure of how capable they are and what it takes to achieve my goals. I just asked about the importance of an aftermarket intake manifold, seeing after researching most peoples builds they seemed to have Skunk2 units. Jeff Evans would be the tuner to go with in my area, seeing he is just a little over an hour away, and after searching dyno archive the majority of his tuned cars had it. They also had a mini-me conversion or were Y8 or Z6 from the factory. I already searched on here about the importance of doing mini-me, and most people said it's not worth it for boost, unless I was going with a built head setup which I don't plan on doing. I am planning on using the the 43 a/r option in the turbo kit mentioned previously because I would like the fastest spool possible. I am just trying to keep the top end as strong as possible, and most importantly making that kit bolt right up without any modifications to the intercooler piping to accept that odd-ball bend before the TB. I guess I have all my answers then, I will just go ahead and contact Autoworks and see if they could modify the piping to fit my setup. Thanks for the input.
 

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98 civic
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l

edit: to specific there are 419 threads on the subject ;). but i am not going to help you search anymore, cause i don't feel like it.
wow lol some1 has no life lol:haha:
 

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yea dude if you are shooting for 200-230. on a Y7 all you need is about 10 lbs boost and a good tune bang about 195-200 to the wheels.
 

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yea dude if you are shooting for 200-230. on a Y7 all you need is about 10 lbs boost and a good tune bang about 195-200 to the wheels.
So in that case do I blam my tuner for only making 230 whp and 219tqe for me with 18lbs of boost(with a small 48 a/r bb turbo)?
 

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See why do you have you be a jerk. I asked a question, a question I didn't find the answer for. I obviously have a clue what I am trying to do and just need a little insight with figuring out the induction part of the equation and you act like every other forum jackass. If you don't know the answer, don't type ban in. It doesn't make you look any more intelligent on the topic.
i didnt see an actual question in the first post... nope no question... ;)

but seriously, shop around, ebay junkyards classifieds etc etc and get a five speed y8 intake mani or z6 mani. they are cheap and work just fine for what you are working at. if you use the y8, get a 96-98 five speed if you can because the five speed will accept a two wire iacv which you will be doing if you chip your ecu and it also doesnt have the air injection holes the 99-00 mani does. if you use a z6, you will need the z6 fuel rail and fuel line from the rail to the filter. you can use the y7 throttle body still just ignore the iacv on it. money to the tune of 100-150 bucks over a skunk2 saved, and boom problem solved




ban ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
i didnt see an actual question in the first post... nope no question... ;)

but seriously, shop around, ebay junkyards classifieds etc etc and get a five speed y8 intake mani or z6 mani. they are cheap and work just fine for what you are working at. if you use the y8, get a 96-98 five speed if you can because the five speed will accept a two wire iacv which you will be doing if you chip your ecu and it also doesnt have the air injection holes the 99-00 mani does. if you use a z6, you will need the z6 fuel rail and fuel line from the rail to the filter. you can use the y7 throttle body still just ignore the iacv on it. money to the tune of 100-150 bucks over a skunk2 saved, and boom problem solved




ban ;)
Thanks for the input, I thought the 96-98 manifolds to use were the automatic units. I might have misread that when I was fumbling through the archives. I thought just try and find the 99-00 seeing it would have the same wiring and whatnot but apparently thats not the case. I plan on using the Autoworks tuner stage 1 with the .48 a/r, its a T3 super 60 I believe. I was going over the math and 10 psi puts that thing awfully close to the sweet spot, so I am hoping that turbo can do what I am asking for. Thanks for the thorough information.
 
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