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First step is to remove the console and boot area around the stock shifter. Once that is removed, you will see a rubber accordion style boot around the shifter. This pulls off very easily so remove it from around the shifter lever. On some models, there is an additional rubber cover underneath that, remove it as well. Now comes the fun part, jacking up! So grab your jack and lift the car up so that you or one of your brave buddies can crawl under the car. For added protection, you might want to throw some jack stands under there. Oh, and we strongly suggest that the car have sat for about 30 minutes from when it was last driven, before crawling under there...cause you get warm under that thing if it was just running!
Now get under the car and shimmy yourself to about halfway under the car. You should see an area in the center of the car that now has light shinning through from where you removed the boots. This is your shifter area. In our case, we needed a 12mm socket wrench, and a 12mm closed wrench to remove the bolt holding the shifter end into the shift bar that leads in to the transmission. Your arm will get tired! Once that is removed, lower that shift bar out of your way. Using a 10mm socket wrench, remove the two bolts that are sitting vertically in a plate holding the ball joint of the shifter lever in place. Once those are removed, pull the shifter lever out...and it will usually put up a fight.
The shifter lever will come out with a rubber boot around it, it’s supposed to that so don’t panic. Remove the boot off the shifter lever. Now grab your new short throw shifter lever and slip the boot back over. Slide the shifter back into the original shifter location, and re-secure in to place with the plate. Once that is secure, turn the base of the shifter so that the lever end in the cab is pointing towards the rear of the car. You can now lift the shift bar from the transmission back up in to place on the short throw shifter. In some cases, you will be sliding a rubber grommet or shifter bushing in to place at this point as well. Slide the long bolt back in to place in the base of the shifter and secure with the appropriate nut.
Lower the car, replace the rubber boots in the cab, replace the console and shift boot you removed, and replace the shift knob you removed. You’re all done!
 

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yep, pics would be great! good diy!
 

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For anyone that will be doing this, on every short throw install I do, I'll take the dremel to the rusted areas and throw the anti-rust paint on them. I know you do not have to, but why not prevent issues down the road?
 

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This one's for you, Duck.
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I just threw my Edelbrock short shifter back in my EF but I changed the linkage too (I hate roll pins!) its gonna be cold in the winter with a polished alum. shift knob! lol good write-up.
 

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wise in the ways of the B
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FooSchnickens said:
Here's mine from a while back:

http://www.d-series.org/forums/showthread.php?t=22558

Lots of pics and the install is more or less the same aside from the ball being held in place by a circlip or retaining bolt.
Wow. Nice write-up man. That would have helped more than just reading the other one. Very nice though! :TU:
 

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This one's for you, Duck.
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Yup, those bushings really help it pop. I might even go so far as to say that you can skip the whole short shifter altogether by doing the bushing upgrade :shock:
 

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What I did to my Integra and my Civic is make a short shifter out of the old... I just messured 1/4" bellow the ball and cut then I messured 3/4" above the ball and cut, I then flipped the ball around and welded her back up... it extends the throw by 1/2" and lowers the shifter 1/2" Just have to make sure you get a good deep weld so it doesnt crack down the road. Ive been running this way many years. all for free and just took but 10 minutes.
 
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