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crx
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
my car came with the urethan shifter bushings but i was wonderign what stabalizes the pivot ball on the shifter lever? my shifter seems liek its wobbly due to play in the pivot ball.

i was also wonderign if a ebay shifter woudl have a shorter throw than teh hurst shifter that my crx came with?
 

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check all the bushings? mine ate up a bushing and the play was huge. Replaced bushings with metal, no more problems
 

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crx
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Discussion Starter #3
the ones i can see are new they are urethan. im talkign about the ball where the shiter lever pivots. i assume there is a bushing in there?
 

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yes there is a bushing in there. might have to go to a junk yard or the dealer to get a new one if its worn out. it expands when you go to remove the old shifter. i recommend cleaning and repacking it with new grease first. bearing grease works just fine.
 

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I survived code 9
1998 Honda Civic DX
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1,662 Posts
My car has the same issue. It's kind of annoying.

Not sure what can be done.

There's an energy suspension bushing that goes near the base of the shifter itself, but it's not where the ball pivots. That might help...

As far as I know, there's not an after market bushing that replaces it. Might see if honda can get one.
 

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They call me Awesome!
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This has been a source of discussion among my group of friends for a while.

One of them thinks that it's the shaft coming out of the transmission that contains to much slop. He's talked about welding on a universal joint to both ends of the shifting mechanism to alleviate the play. Haven't seen it come to fruition yet but if it ever does I'll be sure to post.
 

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the ball of the shifter sits in a little plastic cage/bushing - part # 54110-SH3-003 from the dealer.

that may help, but the usual suspects in shifter play are two things:

1) the u-joint that's part of the shift linkage itself. both rc autoworks and wicked innovation do a mod where they take your shift linkage, cut out the old joint, and weld a much nicer u-joint in it's place. spendy though. a brand new shift linkage may help (and is much cheaper at only $40-$60), but I think the stock linkage still has more play than the modded u-joints.

2) the bitch pin itself can cause a fair amount of play at the shifter - I just replaced mine with a brand new one from the dealer, and it improved things significantly.
 

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crx
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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
i can feel the lever moving up and down if i grip the knob and tug upwards a bit. the pivot ball definately isnt in there solid. other than that i think my shifter would feel a lot more solid.
 

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Anyone know how hard this is to replace?... does the linkage have to be dropped? Or can you do it from inside the car?
it's the exact same difficulty as replacing the shift lever itself. 99% certain you'll have to wrench under the car at least, not sure that you have to drop the linkage - chances are you can just unbolt the linkage in the back and swing it down.

it's certainly easiest if you're able to pull the 'torque arm' (part of the linkage that the shifter actually sits in) out from under the car.
 

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my dd has 1800 ftlbs of torque
peterbilt
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its the u joint on the linkage just replace with linkage with less play in the joint or i heard you can squeeze the u joint in a vice and it fixes the problem.

the bushings should not ever go bad
 

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crx
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Discussion Starter #13
its not the u joint theres ply in the lever itself. the lever moves up and down, not as in up and down shift motion.
 

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Get under there and move the shifter up/down while looking at it. The culprint should be fairly easy to spot.
From the sound of it I would look at the bushings and check if the bolts are in properly.
If in good condition and properly mounted they should hold the shifter in place.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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its not the u joint theres ply in the lever itself. the lever moves up and down, not as in up and down shift motion.
remove shifter, properly install shifter, reinstall shifter.
 
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