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Discussion Starter #1
Welp, seems like there's not much out there for us SOHC stock D-series cable clutch transmission guys out there in the aftermarket world. Maybe my searching skills sucks. Just drives me nuts everything that just balls 88-91 into one category where that's not the case. 88-89 have many small differences vs 90-91. My transmission linkage u-joint has crazy slop so I swapped it out with a CRX one I had lying around. It sits a tad forward in the shifter console but seems to work better since there's not much slop. Anyways, does anyone have a concrete solution to this common problem? Any aftermarket stuff I may have missed? B and D linkage differences (length mainly I'm assuming) I know I've seen somewhere where some guy will put an aircraft U-joint in if you send him your linkage. Thoughts?
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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40,351 Posts
replace the joint with a 3/4" steering joint from Jeg's or Summit, other options as well.
 

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93 Civic HB SI
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529 Posts

I use this, its been freaking awesome.

Some pics installed:

IMG_20181026_0014299.jpg


IMG_20181026_0014356.jpg


IMG_20181204_2225249.jpg


IMG_20181204_2224591.jpg


IMG_20181204_2224507.jpg
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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40,351 Posts
I hate that damn setup! JMHO

A) You can't run the factory dust boot, won't get into 2-4-R.

B) If shift shaft seal is not hammered home, 2-4-R gear engagement will have issues, See A.

C) Still uses factory joint on linkage rod.

NAPA does have a kit for $15-20 that replaces some of the parts and o-rings.

A properly done 3/4" steering knuckle is OMFG, WTH? FULL sexy time.

With a B series, combine it with a Speed Factory Shift change assembly and typical ES poly bushings kit, you'd think it was a Ferrari.

Now as to the bitch pin than some use a bolt to get around. Without slotting the joint on the end of the factory shift rod, it will be sloppy. The above kit can be done with a simple cut off wheel and bolt with washers. Lee Grimes a KONI-NA had the original idea and how I designed the shifter I use to bench shift each trans I build.

Pics are on Photobucket, but since I have an ad=blocker running, I cannot view my own pics.

The end of the OEM shifter where the bitch pin is, you slot each side of it so the through bolt PINCHES what is left onto the shift shaft. No bolt wobble, easy to remove later.
 

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93 Civic HB SI
Joined
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529 Posts
I hate that damn setup! JMHO

A) You can't run the factory dust boot, won't get into 2-4-R.

B) If shift shaft seal is not hammered home, 2-4-R gear engagement will have issues, See A.

C) Still uses factory joint on linkage rod.

NAPA does have a kit for $15-20 that replaces some of the parts and o-rings.

A properly done 3/4" steering knuckle is OMFG, WTH? FULL sexy time.

With a B series, combine it with a Speed Factory Shift change assembly and typical ES poly bushings kit, you'd think it was a Ferrari.

Now as to the bitch pin than some use a bolt to get around. Without slotting the joint on the end of the factory shift rod, it will be sloppy. The above kit can be done with a simple cut off wheel and bolt with washers. Lee Grimes a KONI-NA had the original idea and how I designed the shifter I use to bench shift each trans I build.

Pics are on Photobucket, but since I have an ad=blocker running, I cannot view my own pics.

The end of the OEM shifter where the bitch pin is, you slot each side of it so the through bolt PINCHES what is left onto the shift shaft. No bolt wobble, easy to remove later.
Lmao, I found out about A and B during install haha.

I hated removing the dust boot, but it was either that or not using this 100+ dollar part thing I just bought haha.

I put a rubber rack and pinion tie rod end bellows over the whole thing, zip ties at both ends. Seems to work ok, doesn't interfere with shifting.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I hate that damn setup! JMHO

A) You can't run the factory dust boot, won't get into 2-4-R.

B) If shift shaft seal is not hammered home, 2-4-R gear engagement will have issues, See A.

C) Still uses factory joint on linkage rod.

NAPA does have a kit for $15-20 that replaces some of the parts and o-rings.

A properly done 3/4" steering knuckle is OMFG, WTH? FULL sexy time.

With a B series, combine it with a Speed Factory Shift change assembly and typical ES poly bushings kit, you'd think it was a Ferrari.

Now as to the bitch pin than some use a bolt to get around. Without slotting the joint on the end of the factory shift rod, it will be sloppy. The above kit can be done with a simple cut off wheel and bolt with washers. Lee Grimes a KONI-NA had the original idea and how I designed the shifter I use to bench shift each trans I build.

Pics are on Photobucket, but since I have an ad=blocker running, I cannot view my own pics.

The end of the OEM shifter where the bitch pin is, you slot each side of it so the through bolt PINCHES what is left onto the shift shaft. No bolt wobble, easy to remove later.
When you get a chance can you throw the pics up on here or PM me? Also, I have seen the Lowe’s rebuild and that $100 aftermarket brick before. I might just get a ujoint and chop and weld my linkage. If I do I’ll throw a How-to up on here
 
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