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Discussion Starter #1
Ok i have a basic question which id like to get cleared up.

If a motor is turbo'd it should run more retarded than advanced correct?
Now on the contrary my car runs like dick when its retarded,but runs perfect when set a little more advance.

Frankly im asking how everyone sets their ignition timing on boosted motors,is it set tdc or perfect. Or is yours more advance/lean. Im asking because i took my dizzy off to add tranny fluid through the reverse switch,and now i cant keep my car running and im sure its because of the ignition timing.
 

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well, to answer your question, yes you retard the ignition timing... in boost.

set your distributor to the oem timing (usually the middle notch on the crank pully) with your timing light, then using a stand alone like turboedit, crome, etc, pull timing from the boost maps.
 

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If you tune by yourself, put 1 to 1.25 degrees/psi retard in the program management, depending on the setup efficacity, octane level, temperature, elevation, etc.

Set distributor timing to OEM standard, unless you boost ALOT with poor gas, then you can retard a maximum of 2 degrees with the distributor in addition of the ECU timing map.

You better go on a dyno and fine tune the ignition timing properly with the powerband curve.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Well its getting tuned on chrome,but for some reason i lost 50 whp with a bigger throttle body,and a new larger turbo. THATS JUST NOT RIGHT,so i want to make everything is straight before i go back and get my moneys worth of dyno time.
 

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ok well. where to start...first lets get your car running...set your dizzy at stock timing which is going to be more or less 16 degrees before top dead center, get a timing light and like SOHC rules said is going to be the middle line (assuming you know the markings on the crank pulley) If you said you lost 50whp with the bigger throttle body then theres something seriously wrong...it should be obvious... are you throwing a tps code? I would swap back to your original throttle body and find out whats going on with the bigger one, just run the stock timing or even 2 degrees advanced and then on the dyno they can retard your timing to adjust for boost, if your running Crome there prob gonna start by retarding the timing .75 to a degree per lbs of boost, if theres no detenation problems they will start with fuel and then start advancing the timing in boost, my recommendations are be patient, Im sure your tuner or the people at the dyno have amde recommendations as to getting a fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator and fuel pressure gauge as well as the correct NGK and maybe even a step colder then stock as well as new wires... ok basicly to answer ur question run stock timing or even a 2 degree advance, the tuner will retard timing IN BOOST, so dont worry, if your tuning it yourself I suggest you talk to a tuner to get a better idea of what your going to be doing... DONT RUN IN BOOST UNTIL YOUR TUNED!!!!!

Im a little out of it I hope you can understand what I wrote
 

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If Im right it runs with a 10 deg. advance already on stock ignition timing. I would retime it to stock timing just to get it running, you can change ignition timing on most tuning programs. Also make sure your not 180 deg off when you put your dizzy back in if your car wont run at all, (thats what I got out of it) and do you have an aftermarket intake? I dont think a bigger throttle body will do any good without a better flowing intake with a bigger port. Also on low boost a would run stock intake and throttle body and smaller charge pipes.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks guys for fast responses!

First off the car is heavily modified for turbo.

walbro 255,b&m fpr gauge,aem fuel rail and gauge,440cc injectors,tial 38mm wastegate,decent 60trim t3/t4,log manifold,aem cam gear,heafty intercooler,turbo xs bov,ngk's that my tuner put in,p28 on chrome and so on and so on.

The car runs great,and pulls very decently for a sohc,i pulled on a ls on 8 pounds so it holds it own.

Only thing is it wont idle when its warmed to normal operating temperature and well the big power loss,unless the dyno read wrong?

Ive never set the timing on my motors i just usually set them in the middle on the cam cap that holds the dizzy. So if someone could describe how to do so that would be fantastic, my boy knows how to do it but im not sure where to have it set and i figured since a majority of yall have a turbo'd sohc that somone must know.

Anywho ill get the ignition timing set tomorrow and hopefully have better results on the dyno.Just very very odd all ive done is put on a bibber turbo,bigger throttle body,and pulled off the dizzy to change my reverse switch and i lose 50whp.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
are you running the same tune with all of the new mods? if so.. go get it tuned
No No,i got it retuned after i put on the new turbo and throttle body,thats why im asking what the hell happened.I should be making much more power.
 

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Thanks guys for fast responses!

First off the car is heavily modified for turbo.

walbro 255,b&m fpr gauge,aem fuel rail and gauge,440cc injectors,tial 38mm wastegate,decent 60trim t3/t4,log manifold,aem cam gear,heafty intercooler,turbo xs bov,ngk's that my tuner put in,p28 on chrome and so on and so on.

The car runs great,and pulls very decently for a sohc,i pulled on a ls on 8 pounds so it holds it own.

Only thing is it wont idle when its warmed to normal operating temperature and well the big power loss,unless the dyno read wrong?

Ive never set the timing on my motors i just usually set them in the middle on the cam cap that holds the dizzy. So if someone could describe how to do so that would be fantastic, my boy knows how to do it but im not sure where to have it set and i figured since a majority of yall have a turbo'd sohc that somone must know.

Anywho ill get the ignition timing set tomorrow and hopefully have better results on the dyno.Just very very odd all ive done is put on a bibber turbo,bigger throttle body,and pulled off the dizzy to change my reverse switch and i lose 50whp.


same shit here my turbo d wont idle wen warmed up, i got ls tb on there too
 

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bacially same here too only had stock t/b bored to 68mm i think, pretty sure its with the tps settings ya need aa multimeter to adjust it tho... theres a sticky about on here too.
 
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