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(S.O.S) D16Y7 CRANK NO START. :(

1134 Views 41 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  slo_eg8
Good evening.

(2000) D16Y7 CIVIC COUPE [DX] MANUAL
301780 KM


///////////////////////

Few weeks ago car broke down due to clutch failure. Had it towed to a friend's place of which I am currently residing for the time being— on his driveway (no garage).
Also, my friend lives out of town in another small (shit) town with some 5000 residents. My friend has no vehicle either so you can imagine what I am up against.
With limited tools and insufficient funds, I knew replacing the clutch wasn't going to be an easy job, as I also have not done anything very involved on a Honda before. I am used to Volkswagen/Audi.

Fast forward I finally get the new clutch in and I have a crank (no start) condition. O.K;
Spark ........ Check ✓ | via spark plug & plug wire

Fuel ......... Check ✓ | can hear the pump prime itself while ACC is On

Air/Compression* ....
Check ✓

*Note: I have not actually checked for compression with a comp. tester, however the day that the tow truck arrived with the car I was able to successfully turn it over and get it running (rough) pre-teardown —so this will remain as an educated guess (lol) until I find my tester


What the hell.
Hmmm. I can literally guarantee that I put the clutch in the right way, I used the alignment tool that came with the kit (from LUK I believe) and it worked perfectly. Even if I did put it in backwards, the car would still start, no? Did a quick search and I noticed that I forgot to reinstall the transmission-to-chassis ground. Install that— still no start. Im sort of stumped at this point. It must be something simple that I've overlooked. I pull the spark plugs and am basically cleaning/sanding them with a wire brush, threading them in, crank engine. get out. walk to the front of the vehicle. pulling them out again. clean them.... (You get the idea)

As I'm cleaning them, Im sort of looking at the SKU's more intently each time I do this.
Yeah, that's right these are the colder plugs I tried out since that number is different than the—wait.

I managed to mismatch two of the plugs with two old ones I had kicking around in my toolbox for my old Jetta. Embarrassed, yet relieved. I look around and quickly find the other, correct, matching plugs. Ok whatever, at least I know what my problem was. Put the plugs in, get in the driver's seat, turn the key, aaand with one heave, the starter stops turning. No big deal, just have to charge the battery for a minute and then I should be golden.

I cook supper with the battery charger on the posts and come back, alright let's do this. Keys in ignition, aand absolutely no response from the car electrical-wise whatsoever.
Long story short we determined that the charger was bad and fried my Interstate battery. My friend pulls an absolute solid and gives me another Interstate battery and luckily he also has another, more stable, less amperage charger in the house. I connect the charger to the new battery before I put it in the car to make sure everything's ok. While that was charging, I went to the fuse panel near drivers feet and removed and inspected EVERY SINGLE FUSE in there......

Check ✓

Install battery. Got power back. Turn it over, still no start!! Man this is getting frustrating. Any suggestions?
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Living on the brink of a Psychotic Breakdown— a case study

Good evening.

(2000) D16Y7 CIVIC COUPE [DX] MANUAL
301780 KM


///////////////////////

Few weeks ago car broke down due to clutch failure. Had it towed to a friend's place of which I am currently residing for the time being— on his driveway (no garage).
Also, my friend lives out of town in another small (shit) town with some 5000 residents. My friend has no vehicle either so you can imagine what I am up against.
With limited tools and insufficient funds, I knew replacing the clutch wasn't going to be an easy job, as I also have not done anything very involved on a Honda before. I am used to Volkswagen/Audi.

Fast forward I finally get the new clutch in and I have a crank (no start) condition. O.K;
Spark ........ Check ✓ | via spark plug & plug wire

Fuel ......... Check ✓ | can hear the pump prime itself while ACC is On

Air/Compression* ....
Check ✓

*Note: I have not actually checked for compression with a comp. tester, however the day that the tow truck arrived with the car I was able to successfully turn it over and get it running (rough) pre-teardown —so this will remain as an educated guess (lol) until I find my tester


What the hell.
Hmmm. I can literally guarantee that I put the clutch in the right way, I used the alignment tool that came with the kit (from LUK I believe) and it worked perfectly. Even if I did put it in backwards, the car would still start, no? Did a quick search and I noticed that I forgot to reinstall the transmission-to-chassis ground. Install that— still no start. Im sort of stumped at this point. It must be something simple that I've overlooked. I pull the spark plugs and am basically cleaning/sanding them with a wire brush, threading them in, crank engine. get out. walk to the front of the vehicle. pulling them out again. clean them.... (You get the idea)

As I'm cleaning them, Im sort of looking at the SKU's more intently each time I do this.
Yeah, that's right these are the colder plugs I tried out since that number is different than the—wait.

I managed to mismatch two of the plugs with two old ones I had kicking around in my toolbox for my old Jetta. Embarrassed, yet relieved. I look around and quickly find the other, correct, matching plugs. Ok whatever, at least I know what my problem was. Put the plugs in, get in the driver's seat, turn the key, aaand with one heave, the starter stops turning. No big deal, just have to charge the battery for a minute and then I should be golden.

I cook supper with the battery charger on the posts and come back, alright let's do this. Keys in ignition, aand absolutely no response from the car electrical-wise whatsoever.
Long story short we determined that the charger was bad and fried my Interstate battery. My friend pulls an absolute solid and gives me another Interstate battery and luckily he also has another, more stable, less amperage charger in the house. I connect the charger to the new battery before I put it in the car to make sure everything's ok. While that was charging, I went to the fuse panel near drivers feet and removed and inspected EVERY SINGLE FUSE in there......

Check ✓

Install battery. Got power back. Turn it over, still no start!! Man this is getting frustrating. Any suggestions?
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You've gone over and verified all connectors are plugged in and correct? All grounds are on and clean connection?
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If spark is present I would try an alternative source of fuel like carb or brake cleaner and see if it fires, may be as simple as out of gas, or a bad pump, and yes sometimes a pump can go bad and you still hear it running when it tries to prime.
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Thank F**K!
Someone with an issue, that actually wrote a proper, Technical bit, to communicate with us.
So first things first, Thank you.

1. Oldcivicjoe speaks the truth on Fuel pumps, and not just for Civic's.

2. Though not all your symptoms relate directly to this, but:
-Remove your Main Relay, give it a few taps with the back of a screwdriver, and re-connect, give starting a try.
-Or, swap it with a spare from another running vehicle.
Try to rule that thing out. When they fail, it is almost always intermittent.

3. Anything involved with a Clutch job, that would cause this issue, you have already checked and re-checked.
Starting to think maybe this is a separate issue, only coincidental to happening when you did the clutch..
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Take jumper cables, create two grounds with both pairs.


transmission casing and chassis on one end, the other ends, clip both to battery negative.


This doubles the chassis grounds, and provides a clean new ground for the transmission.


If the car fires up and runs fine after doing this, simply get a new ground wire for the battery and for the transmission. factory location is bolted to the lift bracket of the transmission.
I appreciate the suggestions guys. This is super shitty cause it's me and my girls only way of transportation and being stuck in this town is driving us a little nuts hahaha. I have literally been working on this thing all night and day for the past little while, resting for a day or two every now and then. Im not the kind to give up very easily (stubborn) until I know 100 percent what's going on.

So about the fuel pump— this very car has left me and girl stranded on a different occasion for a couple days due to the main relay shitting the bed so I understand what you are saying in that it can be deceiving/finicky in terms of operation and troubleshooting.

To rule this out I took the line off of the fuel rail and stuck it into a bottle to see if fuel was infact making it's way to the injectors when cranking. I can confirm that it is working properly.

I also found my compression tester and did a quick test of the cylinder(s). When I tested Cylinder No 1, I got a lousy 50psi. I still continued to test the remaining which were all pretty much 112psi. I then tested No 1 again , and then I got 112 like the rest of them. Maybe I didn't screw it in all the way? Not too sure why that happened but oh well.

I ended up taking out the fuel rail completely and meticulously cleaned the injectors and soaked them in a bath of injector cleaner, put it all back together and still no start.

Sucks because I have to stop to recharge my battery every so often from cranking the engine this much. By the way I am checking the plugs every so often as well to ensure that they're not being flooded or fouling and cleaning them as needed.

I should also mention that when I am cranking, it feels like it's right there, wanting to fire, giving a little 'shake' — at random, but no start. I almost want to say I can hear a little 'clunk' as well when cranking.

I had enough of this and tried to push start it yesterday and when I jumped in (yes with the key in the on position), I'd get it into second gear, engage the clutch no problem but when I let my foot off the clutch, it would come to an immediate halt. Like I didn't even really have enough time to re-engage the clutch a second time— that's how fast. And I've push started this thing by myself on flat ground, a few times. So I know that I'm not doing it wrong. There just isn't that UMPH to get it to start!! It's like its dead. I even carefully adjusted the valve lash and still no start.

i think I will try the thing mattliston suggested. Will update if I figure anything out. Thanks again

Thanks for the replies.
Take jumper cables, create two grounds with both pairs.


transmission casing and chassis on one end, the other ends, clip both to battery negative.


This doubles the chassis grounds, and provides a clean new ground for the transmission.


If the car fires up and runs fine after doing this, simply get a new ground wire for the battery and for the transmission. factory location is bolted to the lift bracket of the transmission.

Can you explain a little more on exactly how you do this? Saying create two grounds on both pairs just made me blow a brain cell hahahaha
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red to negative. black to negative. red to transmission. black to shock tower mount/core support/fender bolt/whatever clean chassis bolt
You mean red to positive, black to negative, red to trans, black to trans front mount?

Nevermind I'm stupid. Were just talking about grounds here. No positive!
Take jumper cables, create two grounds with both pairs.


transmission casing and chassis on one end, the other ends, clip both to battery negative.


This doubles the chassis grounds, and provides a clean new ground for the transmission.

I thought I spelled it out pretty well the first time. do I need to draw it with crayons?


reading > you
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Dude just kick rocks if you can't bare to elaborate more than two sentences. Lol hence the "Nevermind" that I said before.

Reading > you

both pairs would imply that there are two pairs. Lol dumba**
Jumper cables have a PAIR of clamps on each end, therefore there are in fact 2 Pairs.
Perhaps you should go to Reddit.
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Reactions: 2
Think of it like a letter H with the tops held together, like the acura badge. One pair of single red and single black, clip both to the battery negative.

Take the other pair, one black to the transmission, one to the chassis somewhere, whether it be a strut mounting bolt, the old original 10mm ground bolt facing the transmission side torque mount, or just something clean.



If it does not pop off when push starting, you need to try and fire it with brake cleaner or carb cleaner.


If still nothing, you got something going on.

Use 1st to pop start. I dont care if you feel it lunges hard, it will bring the engine rpms high enough to start if everything else is good to go.


I have had weak starters where it semms like it is ready to pop, but it just cannot quite get high enough. Pop starting in 1st down a hill got it going.
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112 psi? Time to check mechanical timing, I bet you are 2 teeth retarded
To rule this out I took the line off of the fuel rail and stuck it into a bottle to see if fuel was infact making it's way to the injectors when cranking. I can confirm that it is working properly.
Seems like you are getting somewhere with the others helping out here (or at least getting things to try), but:
This procedure I quoted, will not rule out a Faulty Main relay, completely. Nor, will it rule out a pump.
The only true way to monitor Fuel psi all the time, is to install a pressure gauge, in a way you are able to monitor pressure during all different driving conditions (Yes, including during cranking ;) ).
These cars need Fuel psi, consistently, to not only start, but also to run well (this goes for any Electronically controlled, Fuel-injected engine really).

Put a gauge on it.. Worst case, you determine Fuel psi is fine.

112 psi? Time to check mechanical timing, I bet you are 2 teeth retarded
I wondered this as well, but if the timing was off, wouldn't he see 0 psi? The valves are either shut, or open.. I can't understand how 112 psi would be reading on the gauge, if the valves are infact, even the slightest bit, open.
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If it does not pop off when push starting, you need to try and fire it with brake cleaner or carb cleaner.
I have tried using starter fluid thru the intake and it didn't seem to affect anything whatsoever.


The idea of the timing being advanced has been lingering in the back of my mind for a while now. Seems like that's what it could be pointing to.

It just doesn't make sense because before I replaced the clutch I started the vehicle without much difficulty, and it never moved an inch (other than onto jack stands) since then. But I guess the why doesn't really matter. After all i do have a brand new timing belt waiting to be on put on cause I knew it was inevitable.

If the timing was a couple teeth retarded or advanced, is that enough to screw things up for good? I want to be sure because I don't want to replace the timing belt just to find out it was a waste of time..

Last car I did exactly that— stranded at a truck stop for almost a fckn week and ended up calling the wreckers anyway. I'd rather not recreate the experience.

Well if I had a fuel gauge I would use it but I don't so I have to resort to other methods. Fuel came shooting into the bottle pretty fast so I think that's enough to tell that it's not the relay if I can also hear it priming too. And when I crack the nut on the fuel rail , gas will spray out, so it's fair to say there's pressure.

I've looked into the spark plug holes and can almost see markings from valves in the top of the pistons. It's looking sort of grim at this point.

Maybe I'll record a video/audio and post it today for anyone who wants to get a better idea at what's happening
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t see markings from valves in the top of the pistons. It's looking sort of grim at this point.
Well, that escaladed quickly. And yes, Fuel doesn't seem to be the issue (for now).

Can you pull the Timing covers and get some good pictures of the marks on the Cam gear and lower pulley, with Cyl. 1 @ TDC?
Wouldnt worry about fuel pressure or fuel concerns at this time, since you say it wont run even on an external source of starting fluid.

You sure there is spark?

Do you have a way to check compression?

If you have both of those, and everything is in time, it should run on starter fluid.
Dude just kick rocks if you can't bare to elaborate more than two sentences. Lol hence the "Nevermind" that I said before.

Reading > you

both pairs would imply that there are two pairs. Lol dumba**
dumbass why the censor?

Jumper cables have a PAIR of clamps on each end, therefore there are in fact 2 Pairs.
Perhaps you should go to Reddit.

then you ignored this gem of a post lol.
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