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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Misleading title.. read on:

Specs first:
97 EJ6 Sedan, auto to manual conversion, still with auto harness, running JDM B18B
Garrett T3/T4 60 trim .48a/r
DSM 450cc "Blue Tops", to resistor box
Tuned on Neptune by professional tuner, 230whp @ 10 psi (stock internals.. eek)
Walbro 255 fuel pump


At cold start it runs/idles fine... but as it starts to warm up.. at IDLE it will be max rich, but when I'm on throttle, it runs lean (16-18AFR). Turning off/on the car usually fixes it. Thought it was the tune, but they tell me otherwise.

Same thing happens when I turn my HID's on though, regardless of the car is cold or warm. Same thing also happens when my sub hits. I took sub out and replaced HID's with Halogens, still happens.

Car bogs down and makes it very tough to drive. When engine braking (foot off gas), AFR should be max lean, but instead goes max rich.

Replaced the injectors with newly cleaned flow tested ones.. still happens.

Anyone have any suggestions? This was also happening on the Dyno at my tuner, and they suggested to check the Dizzy? Dizzy has been fine as far as I know... and I'm pretty sure the resistor box/injector wiring is fine too

If anyone can help that would be great..

Thanks

EDIT: UPDATE POST 19: Replaced alternator, t-stat (lower hose was cold), and cleaned all grounds.. still happens
 

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the short bus
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If theres no ait sensor then the car doesnt know whether to add or subtract fuel. Is it tuned?

edit: iat install. Drill hole in charge piping.put sensor in. JB weld. Tada! lol
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If theres no ait sensor then the car doesnt know whether to add or subtract fuel. Is it tuned?

edit: iat install. Drill hole in charge piping.put sensor in. JB weld. Tada! lol
It is tuned.. the tuner called me to tell me the IAT wasn't in... and said I would need a flange for it.. then they tuned it anyways with no IAT in, lol. The sensor itself IS in the plug.. just dangling though...

I'm just going to wait for the IAT flange to get here (the 8th I think they said it would be here).. and will get that beast put in ASAP.
 

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EK hatch
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tuned it without a sensor telling the comp about fuel managment? better it be to rich than to lean you can always get new spark plugs if they gunk but blowin it up from to much heat would be real bad
 

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ej8
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tuned it without a sensor telling the comp about fuel managment? better it be to rich than to lean you can always get new spark plugs if they gunk but blowin it up from to much heat would be real bad
Not fully true. Rich is better then lean but to rich will wash the cylinders walls of oil. Also cause your oil to caught fire easier.

the IAT is very important. Its kinda like an o2 it helps adjust the AFR based on whats going on.
92-95 its mounted on the manifold.
96-00 it plugs into the intake tube via pop in.

Jb weld it or get a b20 sensor.

thats just my .02cents
 

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Discussion Starter #8
update... no CEL lit.. but I jumped it anyways out of curiousity and got code 20.. ELD..

ALSOOO.. car runs fine during the day.. the the SECOND I turn my headlights on (HID's, and they take a lot of power to first power up, then almost no power afterwards..).. the car instantly runs super rich (10.0 on a wideband).. and bogs down..

So I've ruled it down to an electrical issue. Bad ground, short in a wire, something... thoughts?
 

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Honda City
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update... no CEL lit.. but I jumped it anyways out of curiousity and got code 20.. ELD..

ALSOOO.. car runs fine during the day.. the the SECOND I turn my headlights on (HID's, and they take a lot of power to first power up, then almost no power afterwards..).. the car instantly runs super rich (10.0 on a wideband).. and bogs down..

So I've ruled it down to an electrical issue. Bad ground, short in a wire, something... thoughts?
Injector battery offsets. Get them checked.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
They have to be tuned by your tuner. What tuning application are you using? Get the ELD error checked out too.
Ah okay. I'm running Neptune on a chipped P06.

The ELD error means somewhere there's an electrical overload.. I guess it's common for the ELD itself (it's like a giant fuse under the hood)... so maybe it overloaded when everything was at full power on the dyno?

When I drove the car down to the tuner (I had a basemap on there so I could get to him.. like 45 mins away.. with an open exhaust lol)... I had my headlights on and the car ran fine.. the tuner did move the ground, but I moved it back.. still having problems though..

I will replace the ELD this week, but either way I have to bring the car back to the tuner anyways so I will have them double check the Injector battery offsets...

thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Bumping this. problem still occurs. Goes in for retune this Wednesday. IAT is now in the chargepiping. Will have them check battery offsets.

Seems it only happens when the car is about 5 minutes in to driving from a cold start. Turning the car off/on usually fixes it. Warm start car runs fine (just rich as hell right now)

Any other thoughts or ideas to bring up to the tuner this Wednesday?
 

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Help! My car does the exact same thing.

I've had my boosted jdm d15b running for a month or so now. It recently started randomly bogging and the a/f going to 10.0. I also smell gas all the time and only get about 300km's to a tank.

It seems to be 100% randomly. It will sometimes do it when I first turn the car on cold, it will sometimes do it during normal city driving, but it seems to start the most when I've driven the car for a bit, shut it off for a half hour or so (go for lunch) then turn the car back on.

I have noticed however, that when the a/f hits 10.0 and the car starts to bog, if I give it part throttle it will want to die, but if I floor the gas pedal and rev it past 4500 or so, it completely go away after...

Jdm d15b in a 2000 hatch
Brand new rc 550's
Hondata s300
Walbro 255

It usually does it like once a day, but I put my laptop in to datalog whats going on and of course it hasn't happened since.
 

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I cant stress how import IAT is in speed density/map systems. The simple fact that its called speed DENSITY should give it away...

put it like this, air temperature changes the density of air, which in truth effects how much air is or isnt entering the engine...think it matters yet?
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Update: IAT is in, new t-stat, new alternator, cleaned t-stat ground, other grounds, etc. Went up for a retune, but kept blowing fuse 15 under dash. Replaced with a 10A fuse temporarily... then blew the 80A fuse under hood. Replaced that and put a 7.5A fuse back in and hasn't blown yet. Still have the rich/lean issue.. here's what the car actually does...

Cold idle.. fine (little rich).. as the car warms up... it starts to idle VERY Rich (10.0AFR). BUT.. as I give it gas, it actually LEANS out (16-18AFR). Turning off/on the car fixes this. Similar to when I would turn my HID's on, this exact thing would happen... so I think theres an electrical issue.

BTW car is always in OPEN loop, so not taking o2 sensor feedback, so that's ruled out. Evap purge solenoid is also unplugged. Injector wiring and resistor box are good. Injectors are fine also

Any other ideas?
 

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93 integra ls b18c
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are you just running a chip of neptune or the demon board?

and this was already mentioned
"Injector battery offsets. Get them checked"

also when you stab the throttle and let off at idle does it go back rich or leans to where it's suppose to be
 
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