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ej8
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Discussion Starter #1
So this is the start of my Round 2 at tubroing. This will be a slow build, not in a rush and dont got a ton of cash.

For more information on my first setup click the link below


But a quick recap of it.

Edelbrock manifold, Nissan t25 turbo ran 9.5psi, custom 2.25inch downpipe, 2.25 cat back, RDX injectors, Tune on aem fic by me.

It ran good and didnt really have any problems.

Dont fully remember everything that happen. But i did have a boost spike and long story short burnt the exhaust valves on cylinder 2.
The motor had 230k miles on it and was slowing dieing. It was starting to burn oil alot.

Didnt have cash for a swap or rebuild at the time so pulled the turbo off and sold most of the kit, In hope of getting a running motor for the time.
Got a motor form craigslist and got burnt on it. (missing parts and rusted)
Used my reaming money to buy a y7 head and slap that on it.
That has gotten me around for the 6-8months i needed it to, was hell of a slow tho. I was burning about 1qt of oil ever week and half. rings where going down hill lol.


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Finally got some money and got me another motor, which i will be starting this build with.
Its a D16y4 which is basically a Australia D16y7 that uses the y8 manifold and it makes 120hp stock.

I swap in it around Feb 2014. had a few problems installing and removing the old one but its all good now.

This lil y4 runs good and better then when i first got my car with the stock y8 in it. (190xxx on the y8)
So all is good to me there and dont really miss vtec lol.

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Now on to the Round 2.

I will be using the d16y4 motor. Before the turbo goes on ill probably get another motor as a backup. (should of did this last time)

I dont plan on making much power just wanting something fun.

Setup will be as followed :

d16y4 motor stock all around
v2 Cast iron manifold (from ebay taco taco)
T3 turbo .42/.48 4 bolt with in a 5 bolt flange
EMUSA V-band wastegate 6psi (dump routed back in)
2.25 downpipe (matches my 2.25 ebay cat back)
Front mount Intercooler 2inch hot side. 2.5inch cold side
Godspeed 50mm RS blow off valve (from my old setup it always sounded nice to me)
410 rdx injectors I think ,I might hit up Hiprofile and get a set form him
AEM fic 30-1911 for tuning. (i used one last time and it work good)
Walbro 225 fuel pump (from last setup)
Catch can. ( Valve cover and black box to vented filter)

So now on to some pix of what i got started



The manifold has a 2 bolt wg. So welded a flange to my v band flange to make an adapter.



It works great. My wastegate does touch the hood just a bit once close.
Im debating if i should cut the webbing on the hood or mill the flange down.

Working on the dump tube for the wg. I like it being v band because i can rotate it about if needed.



This is my test block (motor i got burnt on)
First i had to mod the block so the turbo would fit.



Manifold and wastegate mounted to block.



More notching is needed but this turbo is my friends turbonatic t3. Its bigger then the one i will be buying so i didnt bother notching any more since it does enough to mocking up and get an idea.



Over all space for ac



That bolt is for the ac/tq mount. The compressor back is really about half an inch pass that. So i got extra room to play with.
 

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ej8
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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
This is how plan to route my wg dump.



The started on the downpipe.
I dont got the turbo or dp flange ill be using yet but ahh mocking up stuff.
Its 2.25 90 cut at the bent then a straight cut like a triangle.




First weld and grinding of the dp. There was big gaps and i need a new grinder.


Will grind and weld it more later till its all flush and nice looking.
I think ill do it the same as my old setup and v band the downpipe around there.
It makes it very easy to drop in from the top.
I plan to heat paint the downpipe and then header wrap it.
Also going to use a turbo blanket.
My last setup cause my ac to run a lil hot on the streets.
 

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ej8
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
My IC setup
I still had my old setup. Didnt sell it but i change some pipes for better flow.

I'm moving the bov closer to the bend, and farther from the tb. i dont know why, it just looks cleaner to me and i can tuck the bov in the corner of the bay.


awaiting the steel flange.
Debating on if i should paint the upper ic pipe and if so what color.
I will still be rocking the b20 iat sensor.

Painted primer the hotside. I plan to wrap it to keep the heat out, painted to stop rust.



overhead shot of the bay with the manifold and wg in

I think it will look nice once done. The dump tube and downpipe will be wrap.


But as said this will be a slow build. Im in no rush and will take my time.
Thats about all i got for now.
Next step is to finish up the ic piping.
Then move on to getting the turbo.
 

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Two men shy of a group
99 civic sedan ex
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Hey ive been working on round 2 too haha, cant wait to see this finished. Hopefully you will get it dynoed this time, im hope to up my power from the previous 166hp to the 210hp range
 

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ej8
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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Hey ive been working on round 2 too haha, cant wait to see this finished. Hopefully you will get it dynoed this time, im hope to up my power from the previous 166hp to the 210hp range
lol. Yea this time ill make it to the dyno. I got a guy that will do 3 pulls for around $100 and give a print out. Just wasnt worry about power levels before.

But this time ill see what the 6psi make on the t3 .42 turbo and up the psi if needed.

I dont need much, the 160-180whp range. It puts me faster then a b16 or gsr whp.
 

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ej8
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Discussion Starter #8
Man you've been on a journey! In for numbers/dyno success. How good does your ac perform in that tx heat with the turbo setup?
First setup it was ok.
Ice cold on the freeway I got 50f degs vent temps on the freeway.
But on the street it would shot up to 70f and cycle on and off alot. That was on those 100f days.
But i didn't have any thing wrap on that setup.

This go around I'm heat wraping everything I can and using a turbo blanket.
It should keep the the under hood heat down and ac rolling.

I ll make a small update to this thread in a few days.
 

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In for carnage :) correction the last time you shouldnt have had a spare(backup) engine. You should have calmed your balls and built an engine to handle the boost on the side. Which is what you should be doing now instead of boosting>blowing>swapping.

At the very least rebuild the engine and get some arp head studs. For your goals, but its still better to get some beefier rods since your goal is easily passed by turning a knob and upping the boost
 

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ej8
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Discussion Starter #13
In for carnage :) correction the last time you shouldnt have had a spare(backup) engine. You should have calmed your balls and built an engine to handle the boost on the side. Which is what you should be doing now instead of boosting>blowing>swapping.

At the very least rebuild the engine and get some arp head studs. For your goals, but its still better to get some beefier rods since your goal is easily passed by turning a knob and upping the boost
lol. Not that I don't got the balls for building the motor. I just didn't see a point when I was going to keep it under breaking power.
and the motor didn't blow. It had over 200k miles on it.
I had arp studs so all that was fine.

It just the exhaust valves got burnt and cylinder 2 and 3 rings where starting to go.

But reason that motor went is over boosting hit about 13psi when I turn for 9psi.
to far retard timing ,dizzy was retard because it got move when the coolant hose messed up. lean and to much timing pulled and there you go burnt valves.

the rings in cylinder 2 and 3 where going anyways it had alot of mules on it and don't believe the other guy took great care of it.
And the crank pulley key slot got rounded because my crank pulley decided out of the blue to come undone.

but a y7 head on that block got the motor running so I wouldn't say that motor blow from not being build.


and this go around I am making sure I don't made the same mistakes and no need for building another block when I'm just going to keep it around 200whp which is within safe limit of the motor.

I'm going to tune it for higher then my dd boost levels.
but the external wastegate should take care of the over boosting. I had spiking when it was cold out with the old t25 setup.

Also mark the dizzy to easily see if it's off.

nice welding lol.
Lol it gets the job done. That's hf flux core at its best.
And I'm good at thick metals tho.
 

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Im just the type of person that likes to get things done right the first time. Like have the best possible start so down the road something i THOUGHT was in good condition doesnt go wrong and leave me saying i should have... If you want to run a stock block it doesnt take much to go through and check/replace anything that needs be. Just because everything runs fine n/a doesnt mean that it will continue to do so when you push it 100%+ of its n/a state. Im not saying you cant just slap a turbo on it, tune, and have fun. Im just saying if you want it to last take care of it before hand.

Cheap, reliable, fast. Pick 2 and it wont be the third :)
 

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Well.......
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Lol it gets the job done. That's hf flux core at its best.
And I'm good at thick metals tho.
Just giving you a hard time lol. As long as it works right
 

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ej8
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Discussion Starter #16
Im just the type of person that likes to get things done right the first time. Like have the best possible start so down the road something i THOUGHT was in good condition doesnt go wrong and leave me saying i should have... If you want to run a stock block it doesnt take much to go through and check/replace anything that needs be. Just because everything runs fine n/a doesnt mean that it will continue to do so when you push it 100%+ of its n/a state. Im not saying you cant just slap a turbo on it, tune, and have fun. Im just saying if you want it to last take care of it before hand.

Cheap, reliable, fast. Pick 2 and it wont be the third :)
Yea and see that was the plan was to boost that motor and get another later on down the road and basically rebuild to oem spec.
But it just didnt happen.
I alway try to plan ahead and for the worse. I build my kit so that it would be easy to remove if something happen. MY oil lines all had caps i could run so i wouldnt lose oil. I keep oem injectors and tools in the car incase the aem fic took a crap. Just wasnt repaired for the boost spike and running lean.

And with your choices i would be cheap and reliable. Dont need to fast just fun lol... which my old setup was fun. Just had a few problems which will be fix this go around.

Live and let learn, I always say. We learn from mistake but nothing is gain through success.......

lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Small update.

Got around to welding the iat sensor in the upper ic pipe.
Using the b20 crv screw in iat sensor from last time.
This time around i drill the hole bigger so i could drop the bolt in the pipe some.
This way the temp bulb will be more in the tube. It should read better this way.

Welding gotten better lol. (doesnt leak and i hit it one more time)





Got the blow off valve flange

Mocked it up with tape.


Then welded that up.




This is my old pipe, as you can see rushing i didnt fully cut the whole out, but its all fix this go around.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
The reason i should buy paint lol.

Painted the front brake calipers. Look nice to me.


Didnt stop there tho. I Hit the muffler tip with some of the si blue. lol. It does look nice and makes a burnt tip look.


I only got the paint to paint my bov, which i need to do again.

Also i ended up finding a AEM FIC for cheap. I just order it this morning. suppose to be Brand new open box i paid $210 ship.
I will see when it gets here, im going to install it test it out and just run a blank out map.


I am working on a valve cover / catch can setup.
That will probably be my next move. Gotta buy the an fittings and lines etc...
But the aem fic broke me. I only jumped on it because of the good deal. cheapest normally is $360
So that is it for now. It will probably be a while for the next update unless i come into some cash.
 
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