Honda D Series Forum banner

1 - 20 of 48 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,921 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am looking for a 6pt weld-in cage for my 96 civic coupe.... where is the best place to look? Thanks
 

·
Brokedick Millionaire
Joined
·
40,252 Posts
find a decent cage builder who know what he is doing.

If not, it will punch through the floor like the Autopower did on a 2010 Mustang.
 

·
Brokedick Millionaire
Joined
·
40,252 Posts


Thread I started....

2010 Mustang Oops. - RoadRaceAutoX





Looking down through the floor board, the bottom pads were cut off to load it up.



Here is the SCARY part. When the bar punched through the floor boards, it compressed the driver and passenger enough that it broke the seat backs causing them to end up laying in the back seat. Now if the bottom pad had a nice plate that was welded to the frame rail and back seat upkick, creating a corner pocket, it would have held.

Had they been in a proper seat and belts, it would have CRUSHED their collarbones and spine. Had the car had a 6 point with front halo, the roof wouldn't have collapsed, but also not good to have when driving on the street without a helmet. Else you might end up wearing a helmet and riding the shortbus!

 

·
Premium Member
A lot
Joined
·
2,028 Posts
Now if the bottom pad had a nice plate that was welded to the frame rail and back seat upkick, creating a corner pocket, it would have held.
I wouldnt recommend running an Autopower as is unless you buying one to look cool and never plan to do any real racing.

They are fine if slightly modified and strengthened in key areas, the above being one of them. I would have thought that someone building a Mustang to that level would have known better.
 

·
Registered
honda/firebird form.
Joined
·
6,966 Posts
if that dude didnt have a 6x6" x 1/8" thick plate under the bar where it meets the floor, thats his fault, and its ilegal to do it that way in a unibody car.. having someone custom bend one doesnt make it any better than a jegs, or S&W prebent cage (im using the S&W) but they will fit a little better, and they can hide it more and make it a little easier to get in and out and ect... S&W hands down is the better choice.. we only have to notch 2 bars for the 8 point, and for the 10point, it requires a little more notching..


edit: i guess he did have a plate under the bar, but thats still due to the installer not installing/welding it right.. also, wheres the padding at thats suppose to be on the door bars and the main hoop..???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
889 Posts


Is a good picture of what you should put on the bottom of the cage. Like Boostfreak said, you need ATLEAST the 6x6 plate under the bar. ON my car it had that, and then we went a step further and put 2x2 sqaure tubing between each downpost.

Yes we cut the cage...yes it's back in my car, and we did a proper splice on it!
 

·
Brokedick Millionaire
Joined
·
40,252 Posts
on the Mustang the plate should have be tied into the the other two rails, creating more surface area and shear loading.

Then again the bar did take a worst case impact.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,789 Posts
I run an autopower rollcage. I've seen two wrecks with autopower bars with no problems. One wreck was in a turbo neon and one was in a 90 mustang. I did put larger plates on the bottom of my bars though.
 

·
Friend of the D
Joined
·
3,069 Posts
look up kenskustomchassis very nice stuff my friend has a chromoly 10pt in his coupe and the hatch will be getting the same treatment when I decide to spend the coin
Looks like nice stuff. Chromoly isn't really necessary, except for ultimate weight savings. Mild steel is cheaper and easier to deal with since you can MIG weld it.
 
1 - 20 of 48 Posts
Top