Honda D Series Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
667 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Im building a d16a6 aiming for about 150 hp n/a
totally rebuilt engine with pm3 pistons and a bisimoto cam and other things
i was wondering if i should get new rods or if reconditioning the old ones would be just fine?

I would think that it would be ok but i just wanted to get more opinions
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
221 Posts
I'm not an expert, but I think the rods will handle 150bhp just fine if you just don't rev too much... What I learned from K1 technologies, where I bought my forged rods is:

"while a lot of people rate rods by horsepower, horsepower does not break rods so these numbers do not mean anything. What actually breaks rods is high RPM, piston/pin weight and crankshaft stroke."

Good luck to your build, I really love N/A engines!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
667 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
thanks for the quick response
i dont really plan to rev too high
just enough to have some fun occasionally

anyone else wanna chime in with an opinion?
 

·
Registered
2000 Honda Civic EX
Joined
·
525 Posts
I make about the same amount of power with my nitrous as what you are aiming for and it works fine. Granted our engines are not the exact same but I'm sure your rods can handle 150hp. Go for it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,732 Posts
tune her she will be fine, people have seen wayy higher on stock rods
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
667 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
thanks for all the support ill start a build thread when ive gotten everything back from the shop

by the way

when a shop provides "reconditioning" what exactly does that mean/include?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
857 Posts
One more thing than RPM or reciprocating mass that breaks rods in D-series is insufficient or interrupted engine lubrication.

Reconditioning means they grind a small slice off from both rod and its cap mating surfaces, install new ARP bolts (atleast they should; If not or using stock parts even though you've told its performance application, I'd avoid that shop), then torque the caps down into specified torque (26lb-ft for ARP with their lube) and finally hone the big end into factory specs.

It usually is not needed IMO, except when you install ARP bolts. They have bigger diameter than stock bolts and they deform the big end when they're pressed in.
If it's needed because of "spun" bearing, I'd rather get a new rod(s) since excessive heat and banging from damaged bearing most likely has ruined the rod.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
667 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
i was gonna recondition the rod as a just in case kinda thing

so you would recommend getting new rods or reusing the old ones?

if i go along with using the old ones what method can i use to clean them?

do you recommend getting arp rod bolts? it wont be revved too hard or anything

just daily driven
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top