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Discussion Starter #1
Evening all,

I have as D16a6 in an EC hatch, i wanted to go half rad so went for a 'bolt in' Skunk 2 option.

Inevitably it wasn't bolt in due to the hose fittings on the rad being too large and it fouling the bonnet, bonnet was a quick sort with a die grinder. However to succumb the hose problem i had AN bungs welded to the rad, coolant neck and stat housing. Now i did this not realising how large the fittings were(being impatient).

Now i can't run the top hose the same/similar way to standard as with the AN16 fittings i couldn't even fit any hose inbetween them as they are so close. So i tried the following...


I found that even if i removed the battery the hose wouldn't be able to make the 180 degree in such a tight space. So this had me thinking what would the implications be if i ran the coolant from the head to the bottom of the rad then the top hose of the radiator to the thermostat housing? So essentially having the rad flow reversed. Like this...


Common sense would dictate that heat rises so may make the radiator a little less efficient and could strain the pump as gravity would aid coolant flow normally. However i'd like some other input, as im curious if anyone else has tried it and found problems with it.

Thanks lee
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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I just see the water pump having and issue with pulling the water up against gravity. but then again, I don't know too much about how much the water pumps flow. could you run a straight from the radiator to a 90* on the block? maybe have someone make a tiny piece of rubber line in between the 2 for a slight flex point?


could you take a pic of that idea for me? putting the 90 on the block and the straight on the rad
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No room SloEG, i tried it first of all. They are so close they almost touch. Plus i'd have the bend radius problem again even if i could.
 

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BATSLOMAN GIVES NO FUCKS.
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redneck engineer thought. hear me out

what if you cut the fittings off, and ran a piece of rubber and hose clamps? so, fitting>pipe>hose>pipe>fitting.

or 2 90*, the one from the rad going down, and the one from the block going down then a 180* at the bottom?

or 2 180* facing separate directions with the rubber line between.....if that makes sense
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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Water falls. having the pump do two rises means you will need to double the capacity.

But the real issue is air pockets. With down flow like stock it is not an issue. With up flow the first thing that goes without coolant is the head, total nightmare.

Coil a loop and be done. Use the 90 off the head, point it forward, the a length of SS hose or hand bend a loop, right into the upper radiator opening.
 

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Tape-R taper/driver
EC3, ED8, ED9, EE5
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Problem I see with reverse flowing a radiator is there are conditions the cooling system will be exposed to will allow the radiator to not be full to the top. If you draw from the top of the radiator to feed the engine, you'd have more opportunity to introduce air into the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I was worried about it sucking in air too. I will see if I can fit a loop in but I can't see it happening, I'll have a play tomorrow, wanted to try and keep it clean.

Shouldn't have been in such a hurry and ploughed too much money into a set up that isn't too common, for reasons I now know.
 

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holy sh*t

yea you messed that up. measure twice/cut once..

Why not buy different fittings and use the proper hose to join the 2?

Use these fittings for the bottom of rad and back of block
 

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I literally just went through this in the design of the following..



The solution is to bump your bung back. WAY back. reweld the piece going off the motor to come STRAIGHT out. and if that still doesn't give you the clearance you need with two 45s.. you can use female bungs with male to male 16AN fittings.
 

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D-series Janitor
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I literally just went through this in the design of the following..



The solution is to bump your bung back. WAY back. reweld the piece going off the motor to come STRAIGHT out. and if that still doesn't give you the clearance you need with two 45s.. you can use female bungs with male to male 16AN fittings.
Sounds like a lot of us in this boat :)

I did the Transzex thing in the last motor . . . looped it.

This time around I moved the radiator over as far as possible, cut the fitting off and moved it over as far as possible and then cut the outlet bolted to head as much as possible and it is straight now like d-serious suggested.

Haven't gotten the motor in yet but the radiator is mounted.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I agree AN fittings are not particularly necessary for coolant hoses however I wanted baller status, ease of maintenance and it was in keeping with the rest of the bay as all my fuel lines are AN too.

I personally cannot weld I had to have a shop do it, if I could Tig ally I woulda made a custom rad.

Even if I use the coolant neck female AN 16 adapter you posted D serious I still don't reckon I'd have enough room without changing anything else. I will see if I can loop it and see how it looks.

I guess you don't find these things out without trying them.

Lee
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Think i figured out what you guys meant by looping the line. This is what i came up with...



Not ideal but should be functional which is what matters.
 

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I wouldve cut the neck off the rad to just have a stump to weld to.

Then use the right fittings.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
In between the OG weld from skunk 2 and the new weld for the hose fitting it's about 10mm. I know this as I've been staring at if for hours both this evening and yesterday evening. Unless I'm not really following what you are saying.

Either way you will never get two hose fittings with a worthy amount of hose in between them by having the bungs were I have them without a loop or some for of elongated hose routing.
 

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I looped mine. even less room in the wagon bay. No issues with cooling and I'm even using -12 AN lines/fittings.
 

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I'm sorry I have to say it, why do something for "looks" and then make it look like hell?


That loop is a eye sore.
 

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upper rad hose can be two 45 degree fittings and then weld a collar to space out on the head.

will have to chop a bit off rad to sit fitting back a bit.

or you could have originally just cut the rad fitting off and welded a smaller tube on there from the get go.


function comes before form when its critical shit like engine cooling.
 
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