Remove the Spark Plug. Use a Long thin Screw Driver and stick it in the Spark Plug Hole. Rotate your Crank and when you see the Screw Driver float to the Top before it comes down, Bam:TU:
Remove the Spark Plug. Use a Long thin Screw Driver and stick it in the Spark Plug Hole. Rotate your Crank and when you see the Screw Driver float to the Top before it comes down, Bam:TU:
yeah, the mark on the crank is there for a reason.. set it to the timing belt cover mark,set the cam mark up, and the side marks going to both sides of the head, and slide the timing belt on, and then tighten the tensioner bolt. and then spin the crank over and check for tension, and make sure the crank/cam gear all match up
ya do what the other guys said. if you can't find a screwdriver long enough what I do is take a plastic clothes hanger and cut it right before the bends. as a matter of fact I keep one I cut up in my tool box for just that purpose. as for timing your engine, even if it's your first time i'd be surprised if it takes you an hour.
alright thanks man .. and definitely take off the driver side wheel .. and also, do you have a trick with a broken lug nut on the wheel stud .. lol .. i turned the lug nut a little too hard when i was putting them on....
if you don't have an air hammer grab a cold chisel and a bfh. put the wedge of the cold chisel on the lip where it broke off and pound away. it should break off fairly easily. if not, try harder. :smile:
i just removed two broken lugs from mine boy was it a pain. mine were siezed on though. mine required a drill and eventually a dremel with the carbide cutting end and i got my lug seats a little but theywill still work.
I am rebuilding a D15B7. Would there be any benefit of running a D16Z6 crank pulley (for reliability)? Or should I stay with the B7 pulley. From what I can tell my B7 pulley in not dampened.
I am in the process of rebuilding a D16Z6. I actually have a bare block and crank from a different D16Z6. I was hoping to use OEM bearings but realized that maybe the machined sizes might not match?
I am showing the mains as D D C C D on the bare block and B C B B C on the crank if I am...
I have my newly built 1989 D16A6 running well and have accumulated 2300 miles at the present time. I went with forged CP pistons at .020 overbore and stock rods. The head was freshened up as well and milled .010 and I have a Y8 head gasket to increase the compression. After the initial break...
Hey guys, I hope everyone is having a great day. I wanted to know what everyone's opinion is on camshafts. I'm looking at getting Brian Crower Stage 2 camshaft for my d16y7. I want to get Brian Crower, Skunk2, or Blox racing. Which would be the best.
It looks like the AEM Z6 fuel rail has been discontinued and I'm wondering if there is another clear front runner to replace it if doing a Z6 build? I see a lot of generic rails on Ebay, but not sure I want to risk my build on those. Any help would be appreciated.
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