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Discussion Starter #1
I am not too active on here normally, but I do lurk a bit.

So I am building the D16Z6 in my 92 Civic Si HB that I bought a little while ago. The engine I got for it was supposed to have a head gasket failure, but it turns out it is a little more damaged.

I tore it down today, and it looks like number 4 cylinder detonated and then broke the middle ring land, as well as spun the rod bearing. The crowns of the pistons all looked perfect once the head was pulled. If I had not talked to the previous owner of the engine about how it failed, I would not have even pulled the pan.

It had P29s in it, a mild cam, ported intake and a header.

Since I have to do more work to fix this, I might as well go all out and stroke it to 1.7L, since I like torque.

My plan is to put the rotating assembly from a D17A2 into my Z6 block, after I have the crank snout machined to reuse the D16 pump and pullies. This is for a daily driver, so a mild compression is in the cards. The A2 has a 9.9:1 compression, and I figure I will deck the block and head a maximum of .030-.040" or so, to gain some compression to get into the mid-10:1 range.

Then, at some point in the future, I will do a big bore to gain more displacement and do some big compression if all goes well.

Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
So, it turns out the #4 rod is bent as well.

Just how far do I have for valve clearance when it comes to decking the block, before I run into valve to piston issues?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I am going to be using a Comp Cams 59300. Anyone have an idea how much room I have to shave/deck the block and head?

Thoughts on using B16A rods to raise the pistons and compression? I am pretty sure I will be able to machine the big end of the rod to fit on the D17 crank, but I won't know until I have a set in my hands.
 

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I've heard Rumors that you can deck the fool out of a D (as in like .050 in) before you run into valve interference. At that point you'll need to run a cam gear.

Personally, I like where you're heads at with this build!!!! Keep us posted!

Other than that I wouldn't bother much with boring the cylinders out to gain displacement (it doesn't help that much).
 

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I've heard Rumors that you can deck the fool out of a D (as in like .050 in) before you run into valve interference. At that point you'll need to run a cam gear.

Personally, I like where you're heads at with this build!!!! Keep us posted!

Other than that I wouldn't bother much with boring the cylinders out to gain displacement (it doesn't help that much).

Not deck.


Mill the head.

I disagree...
Every little bit helps: A mill of the head, a gain in displacement, and a cam.
 

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Not deck.


Mill the head.

I disagree...
Every little bit helps: A mill of the head, a gain in displacement, and a cam.
That's actually what I meant to say, I was only at a 1/2 cup of coffee when I typed it.

According a a friend (who knows far more about D's that I do) "you can go at least 0.120 in. It all depends on the pistons and cams"
 

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That's actually what I meant to say, I was only at a 1/2 cup of coffee when I typed it.

According a a friend (who knows far more about D's that I do) "you can go at least 0.120 in. It all depends on the pistons and cams"
There is a thread on OCO about going .1" in.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)

Not deck.


Mill the head.

I disagree...
Every little bit helps: A mill of the head, a gain in displacement, and a cam.
What is the difference? When it comes to valve clearance, why would it matter if I move the valves toward the pistons with machining of the head, or move them closer with machining of the block? I am not being smart, I just don't know. I would have thought that since you are removing more volume from a bore when you machine the block, it would bump the compression more, for any given amount of machining.

My plan was to use the OE D17A2 pistons, with modified (for width) D16 rods, but the idea of the B16 rods came to me if machining the deck or head were an issue.

The cam has .455"I/.430"E of lift, compared to a fair bit under .400" for the OE cam.

Since I am at 1660 or so cc now, I can get to 1712cc or 1802cc depending on bore (76 or 78mm) and cost (a little or a LOT).

I know I will have to deal with cam timing, and I already have a gear.

This is a daily driver, and I rarely rev the engine a lot. So, moving the powerband down and making torque makes sense. I hope it turns out ok.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok, in looking online a LOT, it looks like if I machine the block, I will run into clearance with the water pump. Is this true? I cannot visualize this, so some hints would be good.

So, it looks like I will mill the head, and it seems like I will have to clay the clearance to be sure.

Lots of stuff to do:
-Machine snout of crank to use D16 pulleys
-Machine D16 rods to fit on D17 crank
-Clearance the bottom of the bores to clear the rods as they go through their stroke
-Assemble engine and clay pistons to determine clearance
-Deck head, leaving enough room if I need to go for a bigger cam in the future

The head and block are out being cleaned. I will disassemble the D17 tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
And, starting with the head that is going on to the new engine.

Apparently the head bolt holes in the block are damaged, so I will either track down another block, or repair the threaded holes, since the bores were so very nice. I am leaning towards fixing this block, as the whole point of buying a low milage D17 was to get fresh pistons that are standard bore.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
After cleaning the block that I had planned to use, and lining up threaded inserts for the head bolt holes, I checked the bores for piston to wall clearance. It turns out that this block had been previously bored oversize and is not of much use to me at this time. Grrr.

So, I pulled out an older A6 block that I had lying around, and decided to put my D17 stuff into it. I had to tear the D16 block down to start on it.

Also, when comparing the D16 and D17 rods, they are very similar, save for the width of them. So, I made a bet, and pulled the ARP rod bolts out of my D16 rods, and installed them into the D17 rods.

I would consider yesterday to be very productive. I disassembled the D16A6, and dropped the D17 crank into it, and after changing the rod bolts, installed the rods/pistons without rings, so that I could check clearances. As you can see below, I clearanced the bottoms of the bores for the swing of the rods, and the underside of the A6 crank girdle to clear the ARP rod bolts. The girdle would have cleared the stock rod bolt nuts, but I want the extra insurance.

I didn't take a final picture of the girdle, and I clearanced it more after these pics, but not a lot.

So, now that I have the rotating assembly organized, I need to check the clearance on the pistons to valves, and then order parts.

I will be sending the crank out to have the snout machined, and clean the block, pistons and rods. Then, I will machine the head and block for compression and sealing.

Any suggestions? Any issues?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It seems I am unable to upload any more pics at the moment. I was going to show the pistons at TDC, and to show the very encouraging results from yesterday. Maybe later.

Now, I am off to pick up some clay, and do some p2v clearance checking.
 

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Anyone? I still am not positive on the difference between milling the head and the block.
They both achieve the same results but I generally read that most mill the head to gain compression and not the block. One advantage to milling the head is that if you change your mind you can easily decrease compression by swapping in another unmilled head which is a lot easier than swapping a block. Then again you could lower compression also by getting a thicker head gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
They both achieve the same results but I generally read that most mill the head to gain compression and not the block. One advantage to milling the head is that if you change your mind you can easily decrease compression by swapping in another unmilled head which is a lot easier than swapping a block. Then again you could lower compression also by getting a thicker head gasket.
Kind of what I thought. I just had seen some stuff online where the water pump became an issue with excessive machining of the block.

I think I will just skim the block for now, and then machine the head to bump the compression. As you say, it is generally easier to replace a head, even though we all end up having a bit into them - machining/guides/seals/porting.

I will check the clearances before I do anything, but I will do that tomorrow. I bought some Play-Doh, and have locked the intake rockers together, and I will check stuff tomorrow.

I am getting close to getting everything together, somewhat quickly.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ok, I know that it has been a bit of a while since I posted here about my build, but I got busy, and some things took more time than I wanted.

So, basically I have transplanted a D17A2 VTEC rotating assembly into a D16 block, and I will top it with my Z6 head.

Here are a couple of images of the engine going together.
 

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