[K2e2vin]

Well, my 88 STD never came with A/C, and I got rid of most of my A/C parts that I had taken off my CRXs.

Anyways, I'm thinking about fitting in a small window A/C unit(where the rear seats usually are) and just using inverter or swap in a 12V DC motor and just get rid of the controls. Of course, a larger alternator will have to go in or an auxiliary battery(not sure about the power consumption yet, but I'm looking at a 6000-6500BTU unit).

Only think I can't think of right now is the ducting. The condenser will have to be in-car because I don't know if there's connectors that will keep the freon from leaking when taking the unit out or putting it in. Although, a permanently externally-mounted condenser would work better; I'm thinking of just using ducts hooked up from the rear windows, using foam insulation boards to create the mount so to say. Only issue is; I was thinking of one side is exhaust air, and the other is inlet. How the rear windows open up; would this make it difficult for the unit to pull in air? What about air behind the hatch? I don't mind cutting up the hatch because that's easy to replace.

Really, adding a roof scoop would be ideal...but I do not want to do this. If possible, no cutting up of the car at all(at least nothing that's difficult to seal up or replace).

I'll draw up a picture of what I'm trying to do.

 

[Grounded]

wow this i gotta see. straight ice box.

 

[singlecizam]

please, please make it ghetto fab

 

[inh]

I think I know what you're trying to do.
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[K2e2vin]

Hell no! Well...I could do that to the back hatch...but then I can't see.

 

[dfanatic]

wow that car is hilarious. hahahahahaha

 

[K2e2vin]

I attached a quick sketch(sorry it's crappy).

Anyways; there will be a board bolted to where the back seats are bolted. The A/C will mount to the board. Also, half of the (a/c air out) ducts will be ducted to the car's HVAC system(tube going under passenger seat)...so you have cold air blowing in front and behind you.

 

[Dashevskystanislav]

Weird

 

[green_hornet_96]

First thing that popped into my head was Larry the Health Inspector's truck.

 

[ghettoturbo]

please dont do this.

 

[torturedsol]

Or just go to a pull-a-part and get all the stuff Honda made for your car and put it in with a new orafice tube and r134a reterofit kit

 

[manilapoo_92]

Just get a dash mounted fan.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/POWERFUL-OSCILLATING-DASH-WALL-MOUNT-FANS/GP_2002920_N_111+10201+600013479_10101.jcw

 

[K2e2vin]

When it's humid, a fan just blows hot air into your face. On those days I just crack my window open and wear a sweat-band.

Why convert to R134A when I could just use Freeze-12? I don't want anything permanent since the nights here are cool. If anything it'll only be in the car when going to work or trips. Plus, It'll be a hassle to put A/C in; mainly because the central HVAC box/heat exchanger has to be taken out and the fittings are always stubborn when trying to remove them.

Why not do it? It's not permanent at all.


I should be picking up the window unit Tuesday morning, so until then I'll probably just be measuring everything and getting the "platform" set up.

 

[green_hornet_96]

I just quick searched Home Depot's website for a 6500 btu unit, and it takes 6.1A at 120V. That's 61 amps at 12V.

I believe the stock civic alternator is in the neighborhood of what, 40A?

That air conditioner consumes 0.981 hp to operate and is sized to cool approximately 1500 cubic feet in a room.

True it wouldn't have to run very much at all, so the car could recharge the system when it's off. It shouldn't completely kill the electrical system if you had a [few] batteries to back up the electrical drain on start up but the alternator might not like running 100% that much.

 

[bznc]

I so wanna see this when its done, and see how it fits in the rex haha

 

[K2e2vin]

The exact unit I'm looking at is rated like 570-580W; it's a Sharp unit. Even then, I'll still have an auxiliary battery for it.

IIRC, the stock alternators are actually rated 70A. I'm still going to upgrade the alternator to at least a 130A unit though.

With no back seats in the CRX and just that security compartment, you can probably make it look very clean.

 

[ghettoturbo]

When it's humid, a fan just blows hot air into your face. On those days I just crack my window open and wear a sweat-band.

Why convert to R134A when I could just use Freeze-12? I don't want anything permanent since the nights here are cool. If anything it'll only be in the car when going to work or trips. Plus, It'll be a hassle to put A/C in; mainly because the central HVAC box/heat exchanger has to be taken out and the fittings are always stubborn when trying to remove them.

Why not do it? It's not permanent at all.


I should be picking up the window unit Tuesday morning, so until then I'll probably just be measuring everything and getting the "platform" set up.

so youre going to take this contraption out at night?

 

[green_hornet_96]

The exact unit I'm looking at is rated like 570-580W; it's a Sharp unit. Even then, I'll still have an auxiliary battery for it.

IIRC, the stock alternators are actually rated 70A. I'm still going to upgrade the alternator to at least a 130A unit though.

With no back seats in the CRX and just that security compartment, you can probably make it look very clean.

Yup you're right. Still a good idea to upgrade. Good luck, I wanna see how this turns out! Redneck engineering FTW!

 

[K2e2vin]

so youre going to take this contraption out at night?

I'll take it out when I go race or when it's cool outside.

 

[SterioFreak]

I see what your doing. It might be cool, but Im thinking not. Go to a junk yard, buy some PB Blaster, put oem a/c in. Its NOT that heavy.