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Discussion Starter #1
I've recently bought a EG civic.
SRP Pistons
Eagle rods
ACL Bearings
ARP Headbolts
Cometic Head Gasket
Tuned on Neptune
Turbonetics unknown turbocharger
Running 20psi boost
What engine oil you guys use for this similar setup ?
previous owner was using Caltex fully synthetic 5W-40 and before he was using Liqui Moly 20W-50
 

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Two men shy of a group
99 civic sedan ex
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I wouldn't use a 5 -40 on a turbo civic unless it's like 20 degrees outside, during the hot summer days run 15-40. I use Rotella t6 15-40
 

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Two men shy of a group
99 civic sedan ex
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I run rotella 5w-40. Remember the W stands for winter. 5w-40 and 15w-40 are both 40 weight oils at 100 degrees celsius. I would use either for summer but don't run 15w-40 once it gets colder out. I would be fine running 5w-40 year round.
Never knew it stood for winter :TU: (thought it stood for weight), anyways I read that a huge difference in the weights like that is bad, a 5-40 has much more additives that break down faster and kill your oil than something with less of a difference like a 15-40. Besides I would rather my oil start out as a 40 and as it heats up it comes down to a 15w rather than a 5 (unless I got that backwards), also I get better oil pressures with a 15-40 vs when I ran 5-30 or 5-40. I usually use a 5-30 during winter but it's so cold I never have to worry about oil pressures dropping to low.
 

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"w" stands for winter. 15w is thicker than 5w, but only when cold. Once warmed up, if both oils have 40 after the "w" - they are the same viscosity.
So you definitely don't want 20w(e.g.) for a cold winter
 

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Yes there are more additives in the 5-40. I made the mistake of running 15-40 in the winter and once it got below 40 degrees out, my motor sounded like a diesel truck when I would first start it.

I have 20psi oil pressure with the 5w-40 at idle. I change my oil every 2-3000 miles so im not too worried about it breaking down.
 

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if both oils have 40 after the "w" - they are the same viscosity.
Wrong.

The SAE grade XwY numbers are relative indicators that indicate resistance to change in viscosity.

An oil with a lowerX is more resistant to thickening when cold than an oil with higher X.

Similarly, an oil with higher Y resists thinning better when hot when compared to an oil with lower Y.

This specification gives you absolutely no information about the oil's base viscosity. To find that out, wither consult the oil spec sheet, or look at the API / ACEA spec. Once you find the right spec there, choose the oil with the proper SAE grade depending on your operating conditions.
 

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Oh, didnt realize we were scientists on here lol.

I guess Im out of the loop. my current stock civic gets 10w-40 during the summer, and will get 5w-30 during the winter (wisconsin)

When I go turbo, its going to be getting 10w-40 synthetic year round, and if oil pressure stays stable for a couple thousand miles, I might move to a 5w-40 or even a 0w-40

People play with the oil ratings far too much. They need to focus on getting proper amounts of zinc and phosphorous, not thickness.

Sever loss of pressure relates more to temperature and oil break down, and some people try to fix it with foolishly thick oil on here. Ive seen 20w-50 before


Anybody ever looked up the engine oil a Nissan GTR uses? Twin turbo high rpm v6, all that goodness..

Its 0w-40 mixed with a billion additives to keep it healthy and stable.

That engine is seeing far more stress than half the builds on here.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Where i live minimum temperature is 15 degree Celsius and maximum is 45 degree Celsius round the year so it is good to go 5W-40
 

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I wouldn't use a 5 -40 on a turbo civic unless it's like 20 degrees outside, during the hot summer days run 15-40. I use Rotella t6 15-40
Again, there is no T6 15W40.

To the op, since your motor has aftermarket bearings, your going to have to do a test for yourself and check oil pressure, motor could have been assembled on the tight side of bearing clearance, may have been built on the loose side.

My motor is on the loose side with .0025" clearance approx across the engine bearings and 5-40 oil puts me at a comfortable pressure, but I live in a cold climate. In a hot climate I would be switching to 15-40

If the oil you choose drops to pressure below 10psi @ idle when fully warm, its time to step up the first number
 

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'92 CX Twincharged D
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There is sooooo many thread asking this same question, could we have a sticky involving:
Engine oil
Engine Filters
Clutch choices
among other topics

It would save people from asking the same question in a new thread, and maybe ask in the sticky to encourage updated info in the one thread.
 

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Again, there is no T6 15W40.

To the op, since your motor has aftermarket bearings, your going to have to do a test for yourself and check oil pressure, motor could have been assembled on the tight side of bearing clearance, may have been built on the loose side.

My motor is on the loose side with .0025" clearance approx across the engine bearings and 5-40 oil puts me at a comfortable pressure, but I live in a cold climate. In a hot climate I would be switching to 15-40

If the oil you choose drops to pressure below 10psi @ idle when fully warm, its time to step up the first numbe
r
operating pressure when fully warmed up between say 5w-30 and 10w-30 will be very similar, if not same, depending on oil brand.

however, between 10w30 and 10w40, the 40 weight will be thicker and cause more pressure.

the w is not the oil weight normally. it is the winter rating.

here is an example I stole from google


Notice how the numbers are smaller on the left for the left side of chart, and opposite for the weight. more weight means more temperature protection, ROUGH RULE OF THUMB (as in not scientifically accurate)


also notice how 5w-40 is portrayed. it has a a further reach into cold category, yet also a longer reach into the hotter category. the benefit of having a very low winter weight, and a high normal/summer rate (whatever the actual term is)


REALISTICLY, your personal setup and experience will very. Some will be happy with 20w-50, others run expensive 5w-30 or 5w-20 racing oils with much more additives.

I eprsonally try to stick CLOSE to factory, as 99% of us are STILL on factory oil pumps and factory oil pans.


Those with much higher oil capacity (oil coolers, modified oil pans) can get away with closer to normal oils, as more oil means it takes much longer to break down or thin out from heat.

Ideally, a thermostatic-controlled oil cooler with a large surface area is perfect for our cars.
 

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ere is another resource. FOr me, it is hard to tell if its "sponsor worded" or not, so take this with a grain of salt, but surely something can be taken form it

Car Bibles : The Engine Oil Bible
 

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99 civic sedan ex
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Again, there is no T6 15W40.

To the op, since your motor has aftermarket bearings, your going to have to do a test for yourself and check oil pressure, motor could have been assembled on the tight side of bearing clearance, may have been built on the loose side.

My motor is on the loose side with .0025" clearance approx across the engine bearings and 5-40 oil puts me at a comfortable pressure, but I live in a cold climate. In a hot climate I would be switching to 15-40

If the oil you choose drops to pressure below 10psi @ idle when fully warm, its time to step up the first number
Busting my damn balls.... My bad I didn't realize there was more than one rotella t series, guess I have rotella t 15w-40 and not t6 15-40 like I though
 

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Isnt there a rotella synthetic, or at least a partial blend?


I know rotella is good regardless though. Might run it if my oil change ever shows up the same time with it being on sale at walmart
 
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