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Discussion Starter #1
So the mileage nut that I am I decided to get a stock D15B6 engine and rebuild it. It does not appear to have that many miles. The previous owner said 120,000. The engine looks good so far except for about a million oil leaks but i heard that is Common. here are some pics.


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will post more pics really soon
 

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Discussion Starter #3
heres the head taken off. Like I said the only thing that I think I would need to replace on this engine are the seals and the valves. The Block does not appear to be in that bad of shape at all. What does everyone think?


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The valves around the edges look a little worn so i might replace those, but the pictures I have are too fuzzy to really show.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
no no this build is for mileage. The D15B6 got way better mileage than the D15B2. It was a difference between 30-35 mpg and like 50-55 mpg. I am sticking with stock internals.

any ideas though on what to do to increase mileage? like a lighter crank pulley or anything like that?
 

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Mill the head .040 for more compression, and get a decent valve job done. Would be cheap with only the half of valves :D Run D16Z6 HG. Get an adjustable cam gear to slightly tweak cam timing and see how it effects. I'd run very light and good oil (like Redline 5W-20). I think rebuilding and blueprinting the bottom end (bearings, good low-tension rings, proper fine (400grit) honing) would be beneficial too.

Can you please post/send a picture of intake port(s)?

Stay away from light crank pulleys. Well stock one already is one, you can keep it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok so here is an update. I got all the stuff Hot Tanked to clean off all the red varnish. Heres some pics of the Intake manifold cleaning

 

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Discussion Starter #10
didn't take me long to put all of the intake manifold back together. Heres some pics. I used almost an entire can of Brake cleaner to clean out the runners. They are quite clean now.

How tight should i torque down the 3 fuel rail nuts?
and how tight should the TB nuts be too?





And heres some pics of the valve cover and oil pump and tranny after the Hot tanking. It really cleans stuff up.





Next i am going to focus on the head. I have been told by a mechanic I should go by a shop and have them lap the valves and then get them reseated. The Beave has told me not to lap the valves. I at least want to replace the valve stem seals. Cause I already have those.
Any suggestions?
 

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didn't take me long to put all of the intake manifold back together. Heres some pics. I used almost an entire can of Brake cleaner to clean out the runners. They are quite clean now.

How tight should i torque down the 3 fuel rail nuts?
and how tight should the TB nuts be too?





And heres some pics of the valve cover and oil pump and tranny after the Hot tanking. It really cleans stuff up.





Next i am going to focus on the head. I have been told by a mechanic I should go by a shop and have them lap the valves and then get them reseated. The Beave has told me not to lap the valves. I at least want to replace the valve stem seals. Cause I already have those.
Any suggestions?
Yea, don't lap them. If anything get a 3 angle valve job. They are more likly to seat better because of it.

Oh, and the IM looks pimp
 

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Discussion Starter #13
heres some pics of the head. The hot tanking cleaned up all of the red varnish. But the bottom of the head still looks pretty worn. What does everyone think i should do now?



 

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El Noob
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Can you get a pic of the inside of the ports?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
i tried to take a pictures of the ports but my camera sucks so I can't get a good pic. I am going to totally clean them out of course. Why do you want pics of that?

Heres some pics of the block and then after I cleaned the pistons.






Whew! ok enough done for today don't ya think?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok so I called up a couple of machine shops and talked to them. They told me to clean up the valves and grind them down so they can seat correctly it would be 100 bucks.

To resurface the head so that it seats better on the head gasket he told me it would be an additional 50 bucks.

Total for head: $150

But to do the bottom end is a little more expensive.

$170 for the gaskets(which i already have) and the rings and bearings.
and $400 labor.

This is way more than I expected to spend on the bottom end. I just wanted the bearings replaced and the rings replaced. i don't think the cylinders need to be honed.

I am willing to spend the money on the valve job cause I know it is needed as they do not seat perfectly right now, but 570 is way out of my price range for a block job.

What does everyone think I should do?
 

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ANY time you replace rings you WANT to hone.

You gotta pay to play, even on a rebuild.
Sounds like your going to want to try a hand at it on your own and Save $300
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I already know that the top right one is a oil pickup gasket. Any clue to the others?

I know that the far left one is a thermostat gasket.
 

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So I need to know what these gaskets are. I got them in a huge gasket kit and i can't identify them. Any input is helpful


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The top picture looks like the exhaust manifold gasket (in the bag), the gasket for the upper radiator hose connection at the head (middle top), and the DPFI-specific intake gasket (middle bottom). Not sure about the two on the right

Bottom picture looks like the thermostat gasket on the left, andn water pump gasket up top
 
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