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Discussion Starter #1
Alright so i rebuilt by d16a6 back to stock and swapped it into my car and the car just does not want to start! i check for spark in the spark plugs - OK. all the wires are good as well. its getting fuel because i didnt tighten down the fuel in line on the fuel filter and when i tried to start it up fuel poured out of there. the motor cranks and its just about to start but it just wont. gas in the car - ok. all the fuses checked out good? all fluids are in. i'm stumped! i need my car asap! thanks in advance!
 

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check the ign and cam timing, cam first, then the dist. are you throwing any codes?
 

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hahahaha
also..... tune the NOS timing, lengthen the injector pulse another millisecond, and you'll run 9's
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the replies fellas. unforunately i dont have a compression tester. i also had a jump from my brothers car and it still wouldn't start. i'm almost positive i set the timing correctly. basically i aligned the crank pulley to the white mark and aligned the camshaft pulley up line straight up and the 7 oclock line with the line on the timing cover behind it. i also advanced the camshaft a few degrees so that when i let the tension off the water pump side of the belt it evened out the camshaft to tdc. i spun the assemly around twice and its right on tdc on the crankshaft & camshaft. as far as i know, that is correct right? is there anything else i can do? how do i know if i have a cel if the car wont turn on? thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Oh and also when i take out the spark plugs after trying to crank it a couple of times they are soaked in gas so that tells me that the injectors are working.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yup i did a valve adjustment before i tried to crank it from the begining. the plugs are all in the correct location i took the distributor off the motor that was running in the car before i swapped this one in. so therefore the dizzy was working and i didnt take out the wires off the cap. anyone else?
 

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4speedpride said:
hahahaha
also..... tune the NOS timing, lengthen the injector pulse another millisecond, and you'll run 9's
this might work for u, but just because the starter is getting enough power to crank the motor doesnt mean the battery is putting out enough to spark it up

also, reading your other posts, check the gap of the spark plugs
 

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DROP IT LIKE IT'S HOT
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Maybe check your igniter. You never know, i had a similar prblem and it ended up being the igniter. I got one off a B16 and up to this day the igniter on the hatch still works.
 

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if your getting spark it's not the ignitor, but the ignitor is in the dizzy.

could it be a bad ground. i had a similar prob and it ended up being a bad ground
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Alrighty i'll check my grounds when i get home. when i try to crank the engine it humps over like i can feel it in my steering wheel? is this normal or am i just feeling things?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Update! good news the car runs great! turned out to be the valves not adjusted correctly. readjusted them, cranked her over, and she fired right up. i'm super relieved! runs smooth i just have to go break her in. thanks for all the advice!
 
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SOHC_Rules said:
valve clearance as in rocker arm to valve or valve clearance as in valve to piston?
i believe i mean the rocker arm clearence. the adjustment that is shown on the helms manual. it gives the d15b series engine intake valves 0.007-0.009 in
and exhaust 0.009-0.011 in. How is this clearence measured?
 

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Jester said:
i believe i mean the rocker arm clearence. the adjustment that is shown on the helms manual. it gives the d15b series engine intake valves 0.007-0.009 in
and exhaust 0.009-0.011 in. How is this clearence measured?
you need feeler gauges... thin strips of metal marked with certain sizes. You slip them into the gap where you want to measure clearance. Cost $3 usually.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yup it'll be in your helms manual. Some of my clearances were way off, like 40-50 thousands which is why the car wanted to start but couldn't because of the valves opening incorrectly. well anyways i spent all yesterday adjusting my new oem exedy clutch and i got it to grab about an inch from the bottom of the floor. it was kinda tricky because i kept adjusting the plastic black nut on the actual clutch cable and it was still engaging at the very top when i release the clutch and it was slipping as well although the more i tightened nut the more the pressure plate stiffened up. i figured there had to be something else to it so i got under the dash and there is a adjusting bolt on the clutch pedal which allows you to raise or lower where the pedal engages. a little adjusting there and a little tightening of the cable nut and it turned out good.
 
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