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crx
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Discussion Starter #1
any way to recognize a pan leak vs rear main seal leak. once I started boosting I started seaing oi lleaks at the front and rear of oil pan. I changed out the oil pan seal with Fel-Pro since it has a 1 year free replacement plus the parts store is next door to my job.

I see oil dripping from the rear of the pan and a bit from the front creeping through one of the oil pan studs. I used OEM Honda front and rear main seals and put them on carefully.

I have less than 3,000 miles on the motor since I rebuilt the block.

are the fel pro gaskets suppose to go on dry unline the oem Honda ones?

or could my oil pan be bad?

flywheel seems to be pretty dry
 

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Classic Man
Civic
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16,355 Posts
Basic rule of thumb. Oil NEVER goes up. (unless flung)

So if you see oil up and inside your bell housing (look through inspection plate) its 99% rear main seal.

If you just have oil all over the pan and the bottom edge of the bell housing, etc, but nothing on the back of the flywheel and nothing in the bell housing, its probably a pan gasket.




To test, brake clean down everything, it will take 3-4 cans... get it 100% dry. Put the car up on some blocks, and let her run for a while with the front wheels in the air.

Watch for the leak to start, and pay very close attention to where it originates from.



This is how all oil leaks are found by mechanics. They might add one more trick to it, a UV dye pack and UV light/glasses, but I actually find my normal eyes to work the best.
 

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There are spots you're supposed to silicone. It's doubtful that your pan is bad, unless it's taken some nasty hits, or you over-torqued it, and didn't torque it in the proper order.

Also, with the rear main, something that's been mentioned is that if it goes in exactly the same spot as the old one, and you've got high mileage on the motor, it will most likely leak. If you set it to a slightly different depth (a couple thou should be enough to make the difference), then you won't have any problems with it sealing on an older motor.
 

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crx
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Discussion Starter #4
ill do the clean and run tomorrow.

I'm thinking its the pan cause its pretty beat up. I had to bang out the bottom cause it was caved in. that's what cost me a new crank.

the back of the flywheel doesn't have any oil at all on it. just pan and bottom tip of bellhousing since I don't have a flywheel shield...
 

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If the pan's beat up that bad, you may want to just get a new one. You'll probably play hell trying to ever get it to seal right again.
 

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Classic Man
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Get a flash light, and get right down in there and try to look "up inside" the bell housing as high as you can. If its 100% dry in there, you are looking at a pan gasket.
 

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crx
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Discussion Starter #7
even the front end of the pan has seapage through a stud or 2.

I went with all studs to avoid stripping this old block, original A6 ...

I even used a short ratchet and only tightened it wrist tight. gasket didn't over crush.

I didn't check the tightening pattern in the factory EF manual that I have, maybe I should have...
 

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crx
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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
the leak is coming through 3 rear oil pan studs and one in the front. no seapage at the oil pan ends...

should I go with new pan or try oem gasket?
 

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Classic Man
Civic
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I had really bad luck with oil pan gaskets...

The trick I found was to be very gentle. Use a torque wrench if you can get one that small and follow the exact procedure.

A super super SUPER (thinner than a human hair) coating of RTV can help fill any little voids too, and provide a better seal.

If you put even a little bit too much RTV you can have huge problems with chunks of it falling off and clogging oil pump pick up screens and oiling galleys.
 

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Same as above
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Dont even get me started on oil pan gaskets. One commonly over looked aspect are the dimples on the pan, if they are worn down at all it will cause the gasket to be over squished and leak as was my problem until i replaced it. Also look for a gasket with metal washers in it around 4 bolt/stud holes. Always apply rtv in the corners near the round edges.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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If the pan's beat up that bad, you may want to just get a new one. You'll probably play hell trying to ever get it to seal right again.
 

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Love the Civic
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Mine looked like that too, I took my time when replacing it. Had to run sealant on each of the sharp bends, four corners and where it joggs up over the crank. Deff used my torque wrench on that as to not over tighten as well. Also when re installing watch for the gasket to walk off the track a bit in the hardest to reach places, my did. Had to drop the pan and redo it, hadn't torqued yet thank god.
 

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crx
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Discussion Starter #17
heres how I did it.

first I set them all hand tight with just a socket just to get them all in place.

than I went ahead and tightened them in a common criss cross pattern. I made sure the gasket didn't pinch and come out past the metal of the pan or block.

I tightened the leaky studs a bit more and it seems to slow the drip down a lot...
 

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well, I wouldve pulled the pan, clean the block surface and pan surface, clean the gasket from oil, then re-install using proper sequence and torque specs.

 

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crx
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Discussion Starter #20
the leak is bearable now that I tightened the ones that were leaking . ill just leave it alone till I get a new pan...
 
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