[HondaN00b]

Rate this build for autoX and road racing. Keep in mind I know nothing about Hondas.

1991 Honda Civic DX hatchback

• Skunk2 1-piece coilovers
• Skunk2 UCA
• Skunk2 rear cambers
• Energy suspension bushings throughout
• 12.5" 4-piston front brakes
• Legend Type 2 rear calipers and EP3 rotors
• d16y7 bottom bored .80 over
• d15b head
• Vitara pistons
• Eagle rods
• Full bc head (springs, retainers, stage 2 y8 turbo cam, top mount manifold)
• 60/62 turbo
• Skunk2 billet 70mm TB
• p28 ECU

Owner says it's on 10psi currently. Owner also said iacv is not connected because of clearance issues with d-series engines and Skunk2 IMs. Is there an easy fix for getting the iacv hooked up?

Thanks in advance!

 

[slo_eg8]

no ecu info.

 

[HondaN00b]

no ecu info.

Sorry, it's a p28

 

[slo_eg8]

......tuned with........

 

[HondaN00b]

......tuned with........

Dynotuned by whatever performance shop the seller uses

 

[slo_eg8]

 

[transzex]

Not legal for autox and GridLife might be the only place you'll be able to road race it.

Oh yeah, and all that Skunk Junk on it....

 

[HondaN00b]

Skunk products aren't quality? I see them listed on 99% of all Honda builds.

Wouldn't the car be eligible for SSM in autoX? Not trying to be competitive, just have fun

 

[Georgia Eg]

You need a tuning solution i.e Hondata or at least a socketed and burnable chipset.
I'd suggest you read about builds, and not go for the cheapest items, especially things that will kill you if they fail

 

[drtalon123]

Got pics of this thing? It's got some alright chassis bits, front brakes are decent, but the engine sounds like 99% of all honda boi builds setting about trying to boost their daily.

Where would you road race? To get it road race ready would likely take a lot of work. I'd personally go through engine, trans, chassis and cooling system with a fine tooth comb before subjecting it to road race duty. There are a huge number of things chassis and powertrain related you'd want to ensure are safe/up to snuff before setting out on track. These cars are old, usually hobbled together under a shade tree, and aren't ready for that abuse.

What about driver/passenger safety equipment? That combo at 10lbs boost is likely able to make around 200-220whp, meaning that car could easily get to 120-130ish mph no problem on most road course straights. I'd be making sure every part of that car could allow me to survive high speed braking and cornering zones.

 

[HondaN00b]

Got pics of this thing? It's got some alright chassis bits, front brakes are decent, but the engine sounds like 99% of all honda boi builds setting about trying to boost their daily.
...

That's the type of answer I was looking for, thank you. Yeah, it would be more of a project to finish as I go along and find out the weaknesses/flaws. I do most of my own maintenance and work on my cars and have a decent amount of experience, but don't have any experience with Hondas and only a small amount of experience with boosted setups.

By road racing I really just mean HPDE days. It does have a bolt in cage (I know bolt in is kinda junk). From the dyno sheet it was putting down around 290whp and 210wtq. The build itself actually looks very cleanly done - no loose wiring everywhere, interior is complete and in good shape, body and paint are nice, etc. Here are some pics:

 

[mattliston]

bigger brakes are heavier.

Any way you can downsize and simply run ITR stuff? You still get a big brake improvement, but some of your brake parts are adding a bunch of sprung weight.

If you can get some airflow to the caliper and pads, even the stock stuff with nice pads do very well, assuming the driving style allows it.


4piston calipers are overkill.

 

[HondaN00b]

bigger brakes are heavier.

Any way you can downsize and simply run ITR stuff? You still get a big brake improvement, but some of your brake parts are adding a bunch of sprung weight.

If you can get some airflow to the caliper and pads, even the stock stuff with nice pads do very well, assuming the driving style allows it.


4piston calipers are overkill.

If I was trying to be competitive, I'd be interested in weight reduction. But with a small car like this and almost 300whp, I'd rather have more than enough stopping power at my disposal. You have good advice in general, though.

 

[drtalon123]

4piston calipers are overkill.

You're right! Mine are killtrocity then:

That's the type of answer I was looking for, thank you. Yeah, it would be more of a project to finish as I go along and find out the weaknesses/flaws. I do most of my own maintenance and work on my cars and have a decent amount of experience, but don't have any experience with Hondas and only a small amount of experience with boosted setups.

By road racing I really just mean HPDE days. It does have a bolt in cage (I know bolt in is kinda junk). From the dyno sheet it was putting down around 290whp and 210wtq. The build itself actually looks very cleanly done - no loose wiring everywhere, interior is complete and in good shape, body and paint are nice, etc. Here are some pics:

View attachment 144478
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That thing is in amazing condition! A good once over, and a test drive to make sure engine doesnt knock, trans doesnt grind/whine, no major fluid leaks, and chassis feels sound while driving, rack and pinion arent worn slap out, and underneath the car looks good, I think that car would be a great starting point for autox/HPDE.

If you dont mind, what is the dude asking for the car? Just making sure it isnt wayyy overpriced lol

Thats awesome it has a cage already, needs some buckets and harnesses. Sucks that the door bars arent welded in, they are mighty inconvenient for daily duty, but they add a lot of rigidity to the cage itself. Pretty sure I have the same 6pt bolt in cage from Autopower.

Just FYI, I learned this lesson the hard way: if you install a bucket seat and harness in the car for you and not your passenger, your HPDE instructor may not ride in the car. Dont do this 🤣

It never once dawned on me until literally trackside and the instructor pre-inspecting my car that I realized it was a dick move on my part not to also provide equal safety equipment for my instructor lmao.

My initial instructor was a champ though, he agreed to do it, wearing full race suit and helmet, sitting in the shitty stock civic passenger seat with the 3pt harness, holding on to everything to avoid sliding around in the corners haha.

He punished me later in his porsche giving me a test drive, he had buckets and harnesses installed, but it still had stock 3pt belts available for daily duty. He was like "oh no you dont, its your turn with the 3pt..." hahaha

Better now:

 

[Oldcivicjoe]

Not a bad starting point at all. likely going to be some things that need tweaking to get it dialed in just right.

 

[HondaN00b]

That thing is in amazing condition! A good once over, and a test drive to make sure engine doesnt knock, trans doesnt grind/whine, no major fluid leaks, and chassis feels sound while driving, rack and pinion arent worn slap out, and underneath the car looks good, I think that car would be a great starting point for autox/HPDE.

If you dont mind, what is the dude asking for the car? Just making sure it isnt wayyy overpriced lol

Thats awesome it has a cage already, needs some buckets and harnesses. Sucks that the door bars arent welded in, they are mighty inconvenient for daily duty, but they add a lot of rigidity to the cage itself. Pretty sure I have the same 6pt bolt in cage from Autopower.

Just FYI, I learned this lesson the hard way: if you install a bucket seat and harness in the car for you and not your passenger, your HPDE instructor may not ride in the car. Dont do this 🤣

View attachment 144484

It never once dawned on me until literally trackside and the instructor pre-inspecting my car that I realized it was a dick move on my part not to also provide equal safety equipment for my instructor lmao.

My initial instructor was a champ though, he agreed to do it, wearing full race suit and helmet, sitting in the shitty stock civic passenger seat with the 3pt harness, holding on to everything to avoid sliding around in the corners haha.

He punished me later in his porsche giving me a test drive, he had buckets and harnesses installed, but it still had stock 3pt belts available for daily duty. He was like "oh no you dont, its your turn with the 3pt..." hahaha

Better now:
View attachment 144485

View attachment 144486

View attachment 144487

View attachment 144488

Ha! Yeah, the local club I'm a part of doesn't even let you on the track if your car has a modified driver seat/harness and no matching setup for the passenger/instructor.

The price is $7500. What are your thoughts on the iacv issue? Seller says the runners on the Skunk2 IM are so long that it would take some modification to get the iacv in, so it is not currently plugged in (can't cold start without throttle application). Do you have experience installing that IM on a d-series engine? I've looked at some videos but no one seemed to have this issue.

 

[Oldcivicjoe]

Z6 manifold and a b16 tb will clear on that chassis, probably end up spooling faster, making roughly the same power after retuning. As far as price goes, assuming the motor and trans are sound thats a decent deal.

 

[HondaN00b]

Z6 manifold and a b16 tb will clear on that chassis, probably end up spooling faster, making roughly the same power after retuning. As far as price goes, assuming the motor and trans are sound thats a decent deal.

I appreciate the info. I'll keep looking into the clearance issue in the meantime.

 

[drtalon123]

The price is $7500.

Thats not bad, you can tell there was a lot of work put into that car, tasteful mods and good time spent. Maybe see if he'll take 7, that price is on the higher side of things, but it is an extremely clean chassis, so he'll get that from someone for sure.

What are your thoughts on the iacv issue? Seller says the runners on the Skunk2 IM are so long that it would take some modification to get the iacv in, so it is not currently plugged in (can't cold start without throttle application). Do you have experience installing that IM on a d-series engine? I've looked at some videos but no one seemed to have this issue.

I could definitely see there being firewall clearance issues in your chassis, the bay is slightly tighter compared to an EG or EK chassis, and the S2 manifold is a longer tube manifold compared to stock types. There are cheap fixes as @Oldcivicjoe mentioned. A Z6 or Y8 manifold will fit and have clearance for the IAC, and you wont lose all that much peak power either. You'll gain more low end with the Z6 stock manifold on your setup, but either of them will flow just as well as the skunk2 manifold does in a boosted application.

The S2 design does flow slightly better at higher RPM in an NA configuration, due to the straight runners resulting in higher overall NA peak power, which is what that manifold was designed for, people looking for relatively affordable bolt ons to make their peak dyno numbers 3-5hp higher lol.

In your case being boosted, its not worth the extra cost, plus ita preventing you from installing your IAC haha. You could sell/trade it for a Z6/Y8 manifold if you really wanted.

 

[HondaN00b]

Good info everyone, thank you for the help!