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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I’m trying to make a good suspension for the conditions here in Alabama that will also adapt to conditions in California, in terms of performance and reliability. That means money, yes, I know. I’m here to do it right the first time. I've done what I could for my braking system (phase one of my preparations for a turbocharged car) and now I'm moving on to the suspension.

The only non-stock parts I have on the car right now is KYB AGX shocks. I plan on getting some GC coilovers as a start (as suggested by Levi), but I need to know just what parts to get first.

My goal is to design a reliable sporty DD that can hug corners and be nimble enough to dodge crazy Alabamians, potholes, and roadkill - yet high enough to go over dead possums if need be. Somewhere in this forum I read that any lower than 1.5" to 2" won't help performance, so my goal is to maintain as high a ground clearance as performance will allow.


So, on with the questions:


GC Coilovers

What spring rates should I use for a [nimble] DD that is suited to my environment, i.e. uneven asphalt, mud, gravel, roadkill, potholes, etc.?

Should I invest in GC tophats for more suspension travel?

What about bump stops?


Adjustable Camber Kits

As previously mentioned I plan on lowering the car only to the point where performance can be achieved, while keeping it high enough to roll over a dead possum. It sounds ridiculous but really, they are that common, like speed bumps in the city. Given that my height change will be kept to a minimum are adjustable camber kits necessary? Would they benefit my suspension regardless?


Tie Bars

My autoshop teacher once said that tie bars were the cheapest most effective upgrade for honda suspensions. If this is the case then tie bars would be put on right after GC coilovers.

Just how stiff do I want the reinforcement to be? 2 Point or 3 point tie bars in the front / 2 point or 4 point tie bars in the back? Lower tie bars?

What about traction bars? Are they built just for drag or would they help keep the front tires down on cornering?


Sway Bars

The original plan (as suggested by Levi) was to go with Integra GSR 24m front and 14mm back, but I'm not sure if I described my intentions or the environment at the time. I want to eliminate roll in my car on the corners, but only enough to aid traction and transfer of the cars momentum. Given the environment is this the right course of action? If so, what parts would I need to successfully adapt the sway bars to my EG hatch? I've read the lower arms from the Integra are required...


Bushings

This is more of a confirmation as I’ve read through another thread concerning bushings, but it seems Hard Race bushings are better for most applications than poly/ES bushings. I was going to go with ES bushings until I read up on them and squeeking issues/having to replace them every 6 years, etc.


Tires

From a [rather extensive] thread concerning tire sizes for a 15” rim I found that 205/50’s would fit on my rims (15x6.5). Also, in another thread it is mentioned that the more firewall on the tire the better the ride, but the less responsive in cornering. What would be the best tire size for my environment?

It must be an all-season tire, as it goes from 62 degrees one day to 12 degrees the next. Black Ice is rare, but has been said to happen, and there are many bridges on which I could suffer the demise of a poorly selected tire if I ignore this possibility. Currently I am using 195/55/R15 Yokohama AVID T4 tires. I know everybody has their preferred brand, but I'm more interested in the brands that apply to my environment, i.e. gravel, mud, rough asphalt, etc. That said, what brand/type of tires should I be looking at?




Lastly, what am I missing?
 

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My SI!
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make sure everything is torqued down properly, anti seize every bolt. go with race bushings and get all of them replaced! even the motor mounts! i think your good to go. o yeah if you getting the GC try to find somewhere where they can corner balance the car correctly and wheel alignment. that made a huge difference in my boys SRT
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the good info bOOst tsi. I'll definitely get it corner balanced, if I can find a mechanic that knows what that means in upper Alabama. :bigok:

Can anyone answer my questions though? It's pretty important that I KNOW what I'm doing before I DO it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
(bump) What's with the silent treatment? 52 views and one reply? Should I just repost this in the noob forum? I searched through all six pages of the suspension corner, didn't find much to go on.

From a friend's advice/forum search I'm gonna go with the Megan racing front/rear camber kits. I'll drop it 2" when I get back to Cali anyway.
 

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If you want to spend the money on the Top hats, do it, but it is cheaper to have the stock ones modified.

I don't have any opinions on camber kits except the cheap ones fail.

Tie bar/new crossmember kits are definitely way better than anything stock. Find one from a reputable company that has the feature you want/need.

I would recomend a larger rear sway bar and leave the stock front. To get the rear bar in place, get some aftermarket LCAs (lower control Arms) that have holes for the sway bar end links, a lower subframe brace (ASR is a popular one), and whatever bar you prefer.

I don't care much for poly bushings at all. I haven't used them in my own vehicles, but when I have driven others' cars with them, the suspension just feels "weird." I will be using stock bushings for most things and if I can get them, the harder rubber RTA bushings.

I can't really help you out on tires. I usually look for something wtih decent ratings and tires on Tirerack.com. I have been very impressed with Hancook and Sumitomo lately, though.
 

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My reccomendation for you. Based that's a DD.

No coil overs. Use regular shocks, like KYB
No adjustable camber kits, you can do the washer trick and save some Money. (when I didn't know the existence of d-series, a friend reccomended to bend it actually. Ignorantly I got convinced)
Tie bars. yes, lower not much needed for a DD
Sway bars for a DD? dumped money
Urethane Bushing is a long term PRO investment!
Tires. 50-55 best suites your DD and performance need. 40 is too low and bending a rim is easy. 60-70 will be bouncy and look like donouts!
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Thanks guys, maybe I should have mentioned this is a sleeper going turbo DD that will be doing auto-x in about a year. :innocent: I just have to adjust current mods to the environment for the time being.
 

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1)GC Coilovers
2)Adjustable Camber Kits
3)Tie Bars
4)Sway Bars
5)Bushings
6)Tires
1) go with a off the shelf rate. no need to get anything special if your not going to be getting dampers to match. shelf dampers need shelf springs.
2) i would get some. why? cause you can match/adjust camber right to left. most don't ever look at thier alignment specs. iirc, mine was almost a full degree difference between the right and left when i didn't have adjustment.
3) this is not one i like to answer. depending on who you speak to, the upper bars can be usefull or useless. but most will agree, a three point is not needed. and in a front end accedent, it could damage the firewall. firewall damage = total loss on the car. a lower bar/brace is recomended. i like the NRG one i have now (its a version 1, front brace only), and i was not a fan of the megan racing one i had before it. i will be swapping mine out for a NRG lower brace (version 2) and my GF will be getting this one.
4) i agree with Levi on the bar set-up.
5) OEM bushings are fine. compliance bushing could be poly. just be sure it is installed correctly, or it will not work correctly.
6) 205/50 is a good size and has a lot of options. hankook has the most range in its tires. meaning the performance tires are ok in the snow, while still having grip when things get hot or wet.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks 99EJ6T, that (in addition with everyone else) gives me the direction I need. I owe ya rep (gotta spread it first though).
 
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