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SCAMMER. DO NOT BUY PARTS FROM THIS GUY
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Discussion Starter #1
i wanted to find out at what temp the fan should turn on to cool the radiator? reason i ask i install my new electric autometer gauge a week after i boosted my d16. it always reads between 200 and 210 degrees. once it hits 210 the fan turns on. but its always up and down from that range. is that temp normal or is my gauge not reading right? also my car started to fill the resevoir every 2 days. today i flush the radiator and removed the termostat. also replaced the radiator cap. car still running the same temp. what you guys think? any comments will help alot

thank you
 

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SCAMMER. DO NOT BUY PARTS FROM THIS GUY
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Discussion Starter #3
not sure if it pulls back over night. no it does not over flow but it nearly fills it up after 2 days or so. but is my auto meter gauge right? 99% sure it was install right. so why is it waitting till 210 degrees before it turns the fan on?
 

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SCAMMER. DO NOT BUY PARTS FROM THIS GUY
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Discussion Starter #5
in the block under the distributor. it came perfect fit from auto meter !
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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put thermostat BACK in.

Fan on at 205-210/off at 200-205 depending in install. Voltage/Ground issues will cause different readings.
 

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SCAMMER. DO NOT BUY PARTS FROM THIS GUY
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Discussion Starter #7
stupid question?? why should i put it back in ? i was told just to take it out for better cooling flow . cus i live in south florida it get to extremly hot down here!
 

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stupid question?? why should i put it back in ? i was told just to take it out for better cooling flow . cus i live in south florida it get to extremly hot down here!
That can also be a bad thing - namely when the engine is still cold. The faster the engine can warm up, the better - even in south Florida.

I highly doubt that you'll have a noticeable increase in coolant flow rate by removing the thermostat.
 

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SCAMMER. DO NOT BUY PARTS FROM THIS GUY
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Discussion Starter #10
ok guys, im back with the same issue. drove the car back home to south FL from central FL. 3 hr drive. car was runing ok for 2 hrs with no problem. once i did a pit stop my autometer gauge started rising between 210 and 250. check the resevoir and it was full to the top but not over flowing this issue started a few day ago on my way to central FL. it got to one point i had to crank the heater on to get the temp down. now my question is. do you think this is a HG problem or a water pump problem? i hope i have explain myself the right way. cus this is fustrating one thing i did notice last night was the recevoir was half way full and in the morning was almost empty. hope my info helps you guys to give me some feeedback.

thank you
 

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SCAMMER. DO NOT BUY PARTS FROM THIS GUY
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Discussion Starter #12
if i had a HG out. i should see compression from the cylinder trying to escape from the radiator cap if i had it off and the car runing. but i check that and i had no air pressure trying to push the fluids out. please someone correct me if im wrong.

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one of the symptoms of a bad HG is the overflow getting filled.
i had the same problem with mine. to check a easy way for me was to empty your overflow. then go romp on your car a few times getting it in boost. then check the tank. if its full or has a quite abit in it. its prolly the hg.
or just do a leakdown test.
 

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one of the symptoms of a bad HG is the overflow getting filled.
i had the same problem with mine. to check a easy way for me was to empty your overflow. then go romp on your car a few times getting it in boost. then check the tank. if its full or has a quite abit in it. its prolly the hg.
or just do a leakdown test.
same issues...if you slowly drive it it wont fill the overflow but if you drive it for very long periods or romp on it it will overflow....those are very small signs of HG taking a shit...
 

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same issues...if you slowly drive it it wont fill the overflow but if you drive it for very long periods or romp on it it will overflow....those are very small signs of HG taking a shit...
mine owuld burn very little also. it was wierd. when i would dump it back into the rad it would be almost all of it. couldnt understand why it wasnt buring a shit ton out the exhaust.
but most likely a HG.
what kind do you have?
how much boost are you running? headstuds?
 

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mine owuld burn very little also. it was wierd. when i would dump it back into the rad it would be almost all of it. couldnt understand why it wasnt buring a shit ton out the exhaust.
but most likely a HG.
what kind do you have?
how much boost are you running? headstuds?
at the time it was stock boosted z6 on greddy 15g kit with the blue box back in the day...
 

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SCAMMER. DO NOT BUY PARTS FROM THIS GUY
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159 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
stock-y8 boosting between 8 and 10 only about 2 months since the install. engine only has 123k on it. well i guess this is a good sign to speed things up with my vitara build. just waitting on fj distributors to ship my superkit on monday. LOL
 

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remember that turbo = hotter engine.

perhaps get a bigger rad and a 160 deg thermostat?

however, definitely check the hg. a failure in one of those will be really crappy.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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OK, many issues to cover hear.

Without a T-Stat the water/coolant flows too fast to tranfer heat, you need the restriction. It don't matter if it is a Honda or Chevy, but it back in!

Pushing coolant in 200 miles, likely a cracked head around a spark plug. At the right temp exhaust gases are pushing the coolant into the overflow, but the coolant doesn't get sucked back in.

Simple, refill the rad every 120 miles like i do DAILY. Remove rad cap, dump overflow tank into the rad, replace cap, start my daily route.
 

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SCAMMER. DO NOT BUY PARTS FROM THIS GUY
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Discussion Starter #20
ok got home from my long trip last night resevoir was full and over heated a little and just checked this morning and it was empty. what is it causing this to happen?
 
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