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Discussion Starter #1
What's up everyone? It's been a very long time since I posted so here we go...

I just picked up a ek hatch with a D16Y7 motor. It has a lot of problems as far as tuning but anyways.

Here's the deal. The OEM intake is gone and the kid before me put in a P10 intake (EG CX, a D15B8 intake I believe) on the motor. I ran the hoses from the IACV valve (douc#er didn't even have them ran!) back to the locations and a bunch of hoses missing, I will post pics of this. He also soldered in the engine harness and soldered the OBD1 map sensor female connectors in the harness, but left the IACV wiring untouched and the gay purge solenoid untouchd

The question(s), (open to opinions too): Should I swap for a Y8 intake? Is there a IACV for OBD2 that can fit on the OBD1 intake? I have a few hoses on the OBD1 intake that I don't think the Y7 motor/head fit....

Like the hose on the OBD1 intake that is right next to the fuel pressure regulator that goes through the intake and comes out of the bottom, there is no place on the Y7 head to plug into, Can I just plug it?

Also there is no nipple for the hose connection from the FITV on the OBD1 intake to the original place where the hose goes which is right under the radiator bypass hose and the heater hose connection. Any ideas?

I will work on it and keep everyone informed with pics. thanks
 

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if its a b8 intake get that off of there as soon as possible. It has to be the worst intake ever. Just put a y8 on it with all the proper parts and be done
 

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It would probably be easier to swap a y8 manifold on there if you can find the right one for a decent price.If you choose to work with what you have here are some options.

To fix the iacv problem,Use a y7 tb on the obd1 manifold.It has the iacv built into it (I have one if you need it)To cover the holes from the old iacv either a, go to lowes or home dp buy a metal sheet and make a cover.(should cost less then 5 bucks,just pull the o-ring out of the old iacv and it won't leak) or b,leave the obd1 iacv there and block the ports.

The hose you are talking about thats next to the fpr and goes down the intake sounds like the pcv hose.You need to connect that to the pcv valve under the manifold on the black box.Another way would be to block off the port on the manifold and then adda breather filter on the pcv valve.I would do it the right way.


when i did a z6 manifold on a y7 I ran the coolant lines like this.

Run a line from the port comming from the manifold(near the big hose that loops to the thermostat housing) to the fitv then from the ftiv to the iacv and from the opposite iacv to the water pump tube. If you use the y7 throttle body it will do away with the fitv solving this problem.

Idk why he cut off the map sensor plug.All honda map sensors use the same plug so no issues there.

If you can find the y8 manifold for less then 100 bucks with all the sensors,fuel rail and fpr and what not I would just do that.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for all the help. It actually seems like a good intake. It's the exact same size and throttle body as a P08 intake (D16Z6/D15B).

There is a Y8 intake at my local junkyard but I am STRAPPED for cash. I'm painting my EG hatch Vogue silver metallic in two weeks mmmmmmmmm

So this is what I'm going to do

Keep the intake (It looks better to me than that big short square box of a y8)
Fix the remaining lines from all of your input
Solder in a obd1 two prong connector for the IACV (keeping the original obd2 on there of course!)
And take some pics and post!
 

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Thanks for all the help. It actually seems like a good intake. It's the exact same size and throttle body as a P08 intake (D16Z6/D15B).

There is a Y8 intake at my local junkyard but I am STRAPPED for cash. I'm painting my EG hatch Vogue silver metallic in two weeks mmmmmmmmm

So this is what I'm going to do

Keep the intake (It looks better to me than that big short square box of a y8)
Fix the remaining lines from all of your input
Solder in a obd1 two prong connector for the IACV (keeping the original obd2 on there of course!)
And take some pics and post!
A B8 is not the same a a Z6.
 

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my dd has 1800 ftlbs of torque
peterbilt
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i have a complete z6 mani
 

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honestly if you still have the y7 put it back on who cares what it looks like it will perform better
 

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Discussion Starter #8
honestly if you still have the y7 put it back on who cares what it looks like it will perform better
Honestly I think that there won't be a change as of horsepower. And I wouldn't mind rocking a y8 intake on it. I checked the intake on my eg and the intake on the ek and it is down to the t on how it looks and functions exactly.

I guess this is more of a DIY for a broke college kid if anything lol. But I'm digging the different intake on it. It was more like a question of "Hey I bought this from a dumba$$ kid, can I keep it on?" Kind of like the question of a skunk or edelbrock intake. Besides (hopefully I won't get flamed for this) but a b-series swap is in the egs future and I would like to drop the D15B in the ek.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
so where are those pics you said you were gonna post ;)
Here ya go. I will be working on it again on Tuesday. I have finals Monday so I have to study so I'll leave you with these....

Engine (Why paint a valve cover snot orange?)


Side view showing the throttle body is the same as a 1.6


Back of intake I tried getting a shot of the P10


The wire I have to solder for the obd1 connector of the IACV



The kid smashed the hose next to the heater hose inlet on the firewall (How the hell am I going to fix that!?)


Showing the heater hose inlet missing and he ran the hose that is supposed to go right back into the motor
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok so I took a break from studying today and went to work on it.

Everything is fixed except for three things

Wire the IAT Sensor
Wire the IACV Sensor
Figure out how to get the smashed hose inlet to stop leaking

I ran a hose from the main antifreeze line brain and ran it to the smashed hose inlet. Threw on a screw-on hose clamp and clamped it all the way. Started the car and it leaks! I tried to get it back to the way it was but he must of took some vice grips to it because its not bending in anyway.

Maybe I can wrap tape around it to make it more rounded out.

Any plumbers out there that can help?
 
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