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Discussion Starter #1
I am in the process of rebuilding a D16Z6. I actually have a bare block and crank from a different D16Z6. I was hoping to use OEM bearings but realized that maybe the machined sizes might not match?
I am showing the mains as D D C C D on the bare block and B C B B C on the crank if I am reading the crank correctly. Does this mean I will have to run aftermarket bearings?





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Never finishes (TWSS)
91 Civic SI hb
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Best bet is to plasti guage them and see what the clearences are..if they are tight (re fsm), i wouldnt use them, if they are a little loose go for it.

I wouldnt want much more then 0.0025" on the mains and 0.0015" on the rods myself.

Compair the block you have and the block they came out of.

Then compair the crank you have vs the crank the bearings came off


But for not much money you can get new acl or king main bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Best bet is to plasti guage them and see what the clearences are..if they are tight (re fsm), i wouldnt use them, if they are a little loose go for it.

I wouldnt want much more then 0.0025" on the mains and 0.0015" on the rods myself.

But for not much money you can get new acl or king main bearings.
Yeah, I am going to purchase all new bearings one way or another. Just would have liked to go OEM and go with the clearances from Honda on everything.
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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Crank would have numbers to match the block numbers.

Letters on the crank are for the connecting rods, and only 4 of them.
 

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Never finishes (TWSS)
91 Civic SI hb
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Yeah IF you can see the colors on the oem bearings then yes you only have to check your block and crank and see what colors they need and if the ones have will fit within what you want for clearence.

If you cant see the colors on them. You need the block and crank they came from in order to see what they are for size. Or one can always measure them to check thickness.


Simplest way is buy 15$ plastiguage and check it out. As long as they fall with in the spec you want you can run them. Even if one main is 0.002" and another is 0.001" they just need above 0.0009" and less then 0.002

And even with acl bearings you are going to want to check them anyway before assembling the engine.
 

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I am in the process of rebuilding a D16Z6. I actually have a bare block and crank from a different D16Z6. I was hoping to use OEM bearings but realized that maybe the machined sizes might not match?
I am showing the mains as D D C C D on the bare block and B C B B C on the crank if I am reading the crank correctly. Does this mean I will have to run aftermarket bearings?





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You can use OEM bearings, and I would recommend them if the sizes you need are still available. Checking with plastigauge is a good idea, too.
The numbers on the crank are for the main bearing journals, the letters are the rod bearing journals. Using the factory charts below you can build an engine with more accurate clearances than using 'one size fits all' third party bearings, unless you have the crank turned and the block bored by a good machine shop. I built a D16A6/Z6 minime in 2012 using factory bearings and it is still running great.
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