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Discussion Starter #1
hey everyone, well i just got back from gingerman raceway (road race event) and i notice a few things with my car when i was on the track.

when i was on the track the coolant inside the engine was getting push out into the reservoir to the point were it overflow it and spill on the track and got sent to the pit to clean the coolant in the engine bay. Now after it did that i empty the reservoir till it was to the full mark and it was fine but the radiator was a bit low.
I didn't fill the radiator because i knew it was gonna do it again. So do i have to go with a cooler thermostat to stop this problem.

here is my setup

D16Y8 rebuild for boost
OEM thermostat
buddy club 1.3 kg/cm radiator cap
KOYO aluminum radiator
Honda coolant
samco hoses
and reprogram the radiator fans to come on at 180 degrees
 

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hey everyone, well i just got back from gingerman raceway (road race event) and i notice a few things with my car when i was on the track.

when i was on the track the coolant inside the engine was getting push out into the reservoir to the point were it overflow it and spill on the track and got sent to the pit to clean the coolant in the engine bay. Now after it did that i empty the reservoir till it was to the full mark and it was fine but the radiator was a bit low.
I didn't fill the radiator because i knew it was gonna do it again. So do i have to go with a cooler thermostat to stop this problem.

here is my setup

D16Y8 rebuild for boost
OEM thermostat
buddy club 1.3 kg/cm radiator cap
KOYO aluminum radiator
Honda coolant
samco hoses
and reprogram the radiator fans to come on at 180 degrees
you're pushing coolant which means there are some problem with head gasket or head lifting from too much timing.

how do you reprogram the radiator fan?
 

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()*#$(*$
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No, that doesn't mean there is a problem with a headgasket or lift.

Just because you replaced the rad cap doesn't mean you A: didn't get a bad one or B: bought one worth a darn.

A lower temp thermostat isn't necessarily going to fix anything. You never mentioned if the engine was registering hot on the dash gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
No, that doesn't mean there is a problem with a headgasket or lift.

Just because you replaced the rad cap doesn't mean you A: didn't get a bad one or B: bought one worth a darn.

A lower temp thermostat isn't necessarily going to fix anything. You never mentioned if the engine was registering hot on the dash gauge.
the OEM temp gauge was reading fine, right in the middle. now the autometer gauge was reading pretty high somewhere around 220-240. the sensor is mounted on the water outlet housing where the upper radiator hose mounts to
 

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Discussion Starter #7
you're pushing coolant which means there are some problem with head gasket or head lifting from too much timing.

how do you reprogram the radiator fan?
when i got my car tune the guy reprogram the ECU to turn it on earlier
 

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Brokedick Millionaire
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Oil cooler and/or turn on interior heat as well.

Needle in the middle is a bad sign of overheating.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
needle in the middle is a bad sign??? how is that a bad sign when every cars temp gauge is aways in the middle
 

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Its supposed to be at 1/3 or 1/4 the way up. Half way is bad.

When it goes to half way, that's when you pull over and say "wtf is wrong", not "my car is ok, sup girl?".
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The needle doesn't move from 160-210 degrees, when it starts to rise above normal you have a problem.
ok temp gauge from the cluster doesn't move from the middle which is normal operating temperature, if i saw the temp go up then ya i would think something is wrong but it never did
 

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the OEM temp gauge was reading fine, right in the middle. now the autometer gauge was reading pretty high somewhere around 220-240. the sensor is mounted on the water outlet housing where the upper radiator hose mounts to
220-240 isn't all that bad on a tracked car. A lot of cars run in the 230 range from the factory. Get a 16lb cap.
 

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the OEM temp gauge was reading fine, right in the middle. now the autometer gauge was reading pretty high somewhere around 220-240. the sensor is mounted on the water outlet housing where the upper radiator hose mounts to
My car WAS the exact same way. Dash temp was always solid, and my upper rad hose temp sensor would read 220-230 ish.... but is always worried me when i would see that.
 

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My needle stats in the middle without even getting in to boost. Every vehicle I have ever owned the temp needle goes to the middle. I would not be worried about that. Maybe getting a new rad cap or buying a high capacity rad will help you.
 

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High pressure radiator cap, run distilled water with water wetter. If that fails, try looking into ducting air over your full-size rad.

If you're overheating now, you're going to have a bad time when you boost...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
well I'm not to worry about the coolant temp. i just want to stop the coolant overflowing in the reservoir and leaving the radiator low on coolant
 
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