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Discussion Starter #1
So I've done some searching and researching (pun intended) for the past month or so and would like to try to get some clarity on what I've found.

To keep this post short, I'll get to the dirty part:

I want to rebuild a Z6 with Y7 (P2E) pistons using the stock Z6 rods (shotpeened) and running a 2-layer Y8 HG. Overbore by .5mm, should bring compression to right below 10:1, yes?

My main question are the Y7 slugs. I tried searching, but could not find much info on reliability or potential. Is this a good idea? I know it's a cheesy question that lacks imagination, but what kind of wheel numbers should I be seeing with this? The only part of the head that will be touched are new seals, gaskets, and ARP head studs. Stock valvetrain and cams.

I'd like to keep this all under $1k. I'm looking at a shopping list of about $800 right now (not counting the spare motor). All assembly will be done at home, minus the overbore and honing.
 

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If your spending close to 1grand, why dont you just buy off the shelf pistons and some eagle rods. you can pick your CR and have a strong bottom end. Do it once the right way, saves $ down the road. As for #'s... without any head work you wont see much a difference in pwr, you will feel a bit more torque.

G-PA
 

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Y7 pistons will only run me about $160 for all 4 new from Honda. Builthatch's post on building the NA street D16 listed that the stock rods should be fine to 200whp. I won't be getting anywhere near 200whp, so I see no need to spend another $300 on Eagle rods.

My 1g goal is realized including the costs of all normal maintenance items in the rebuild. Water pump, timing belt, tensioner, all gaskets, rings, wrist pins, crank bearings, belts, etc. Every piece is OEM minus the fasteners which will be ARP.

Here's my shopping list, if anyone cares: ching.

So I should at least get the head port matched? Upgrading the valve train is definitely something I forsee in the future. Is there a set of crower cams that I could run without upgrading the springs/retainers? Would it be worth the cost of a 'lesser' cam? Or would I just be throwing money at the wind until I went serious on the head?
 

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A lot of aftermarket cams require at minimum stiffer springs, getting a cam with aggressive lift will cause the stock springs and valves to 'float' at higher rpms, because the spring isnt stiff enough to rebound all the way before the lobe hits it again, titanium retainers and springs are a great buy for the money. Crower makes retainers, springs, and a stage 2 camshaft for about 500 bucks where i've looked, although im sure it could be had for less.

Porting the head out is also something that will leave headroom for power, if its N/A or boosted, bigger is better in the head, and while its off why not do it? And while that is being said, getting the chamber in the head smoothed out as well, that is nasty, also helps combustion along, all of this together will add power when your increasing the flow, and easing the combustion surfaces, which can also help remove knock.

If your just doing N/A decent pistons and shot peened and or cryotreated stock rods are more than enough in most cases at 11.5-12:1 cr. If your N/A, alot of power comes from correcting inefficiencies in the head, id try to knock it all out at one time, do it once, do it well.
 
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