[patprimmer]

I have searched quite a bit, but get a lot of static and none of the detail I want in the results.

I have an 88 model CRX ED9

I am completely stripping down and rebuilding everything including body, paint, trim, engine transmission and suspnsion as a fast but comfortable daily driver.

I hope the engine will finally be a D18 DOHC with a moderate size turbo to give about 250 hp on 98 octane pump fuel with maybe a potential to turn it up to 300 or so on methanol or race gas.

I am still slightly contemplating a RT4WD conversion as I have some parts, but weight and durability and spare parts issues have me concerned. I really don't know how tough or heavy a 1988 Civic RT4WD gear box and rear diff are, although it would add a real cool factor.

I will retain P/S & A/C etc for comfort, but I like very crisp direct response re handling and roadholding.

I am considering upgrading bushes, engine mounts and traction bars.

I intend to drag race occasionally, do club events like track days and amateur rally days etc.

My normal driving is mainly suburban main roads and highway for private and business, but there is enough rural back road and dirt road to give me some real rally type fun at times.

The car needs to be an all rounder.

I need to retain stock or near stock ground clearance.

I need to retain reasonable in cabin noise levels so my cell phone hands free kit works good as this is also my business car.

I don't want to give away ground clearance or load carrying capacity, in fact I need to retain an ability to carry a heavy load in the back compartment, like some tool boxes or engine parts for other bigger cars.

Will filling my mounts and bushes transmit to much noise or clonks and rattles to the cabin. I plan to just use a real good hard grade of RTV silicone rubber over OEM mount rubber. Is this how it's done.

Will traction bars transmit extra road noise or clonks and rattles. Will the spherical joints have a short life.

Does anyone know what diameter and wall and grade of tubing is used for a good rigid traction bar cross member.

Does anyone know what size radius rods & steel grades are used for radius (trailing) arms (rods).

If I use them I would plan to fabricate them myself rather than to try to import to Australia, but a clue on spes of current good designs would help as a starting point.

My guess is about 2" chrome molly medium wall tube for the cross member and about 1" chrome molly heavy wall tube for the radius arms. Attachment tangs to be gusseted and about 2mm plate.

Sorry for the long post and multiple questions.

 

[Full_Tilt]

Im certain that they will transmit more noise and vibration since they are essentially bypassing the coils.

The spherical bushings shouldnt wear out that fast if they are high quality. Good heim joints are expensive, but you get what you pay for.

Imo the decrease in deflection is worth the additional vibration, noise, etc.

 

[patprimmer]

I'm not sure what you mean by bypassing the coils.

Spherical bushings is kind of what I suspected. I wonder if oversized helps much.

I know deflection vs noise is the hard one as it is a personal judgement call.

 

[Full_Tilt]

I'm not sure what you mean by bypassing the coils.

Well since they connect directly to the lower control arms vibration that would normally have to be transferred through the coilovers can be transferred more directly, if you catch my drift

 

[Dmod]

Well I can't be too much help answering questions for you.. But I will say this. Even as a younger guy I certinaly can appreciate a nice quiet DD. My race car can rattle and clonk as much as it wants, that's to be expected. My everyday driving car needs to be comfortable.

Plus you mentioned a cellphone device.. I think even though it may add a few lbs. You should look into dynamat of some sort to help cancel the noises out.

 

[snm95ls]

There will be more NVH when you add traction bars. There is no debate on that. I have had two EDs with traction bars, and DDed them both.

As previously mentioned, quality rod ends cost $$$, but the best thing you can do is seal them from the dirt and moisture that destroys them. Check out a company called Seals-It. I never did get around to picking up a set of boots, but had all intentions of doing so if I had kept the traction bar setup on my hatch.

I like the fact that you can dial in more positive caster, but you WILL experience significantly more bumpsteer by doing so.

The reduction in deflection is quite noticeable, but Don't expect them to cure all of your traction issues. It is a multifaceted problem, and IMO, geometry has to be optimized in order for them to work properly.

I find myself enjoying my hatch a lot more with them removed as a great deal of NVH has been removed, and I am working on finding alternatives to gaining more traction up front. They are not legal for lower Solo classes, so I removed them to keep form being automatically bumped into a free for all class.

Lol.

Just my $0.02 on the subject.

 

[ryan89crx]

I DD my CRX with a traction bar, for me it's worth it because I have little to no wheel hop. They are noisy, when I let the clutch out the front end bangs because there is no rubber. I had a friend ask me the other day if my suspension was loose because the banging is relatively loud. I really don't notice it, being as I've been driving with a traction bar for about 3 years

 

[cmgreen50]

pro- their sexy and give you serious hard parker credit

 

[jimmyb34]

pro- their sexy and give you serious hard parker credit

soooo true!!!!! my avids looook siiiiiiiiick... lol

in all honesty i could dd my hatch all day long.. and it has 95a mounts, traction bar, sits on the ground etc and 400+ whp.... its not as bad as you think.. you have to give a little to get a little. cant always have your cake and eat it to

 

[cmgreen50]

well not if you build a civic

with a fat checkbook you can run 10s, have ice cold ac, great ride, and a blowjob hole in the dash

 

[transzex]

pat, time to find a cushy car to a be a quiet DD, like another stock Honda, with a slushbox!!!!!

You'll also save on the wear and tear on the heim joints.

Although I do admit that DDing the CRX is fun, using cell phone above 60mph/100kph is not possible due to cabin/exhaust noise and I'm not even hands free! I forget what mounts are in the CRX, but the feel about the same as when I ran the full ES insert kit on the EG HB.

Your asking too much of a car. With a DD autotragic you can talk to clients with a stock exhaust, simple stab and steer, no changing gears.

 

[patprimmer]

Bone

A personality trait of mine is to reach for a little more than there is.

I really like the CRX and want to keep it as my DD.

I prefer stick shift, especially when on the phone as it reminds me to concentrate a bit more on driving. An auto allows you to become totaly engrossed in the phone.

Time for a rethink I think.

 

[transzex]

I hate being on the phone while driving, always checking mirrors.

My CRX is a 3 speed, 1-3-5 is all I need. Even after wreck and my home alignment, I can take off in 1st, then hit 3rd, then 5th if needed, ZC close ratio box FTW!

 

[patprimmer]

1, 3, 5 is how I do it if not in a hurry or 1, 2, 5 if in a hurry to the speed limit only.

I might still fab up a traction bar set up or replace the rubber on the stock set up with nylon. It depends on how much it will cost to experiment.