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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Project EJ1.8 - Fuel delivery system/rack install/engine in the hole/mount issues

I thought I'd continue my build thread here and away from my intro thread

Hi from New Zealand, My project car is a EJ1 firstly in NZ we didn't get a great number of coupes, ontop of that we received even less of the later model coupes and i would go as far as saying we definitely didn't get any EJ8s, EJ7s are as rare as hens teeth and i think you'd struggle to find more than 5-10 in the whole country.

Index:*
Project EJ1.8 - The car and the plans for it
So it begins! EJ1 EK front FL Conversion (1/4)
So it begins! EJ1 EK front FL Conversion continued (2/4)..
So it begins! EJ1 EK front FL Conversion continued (3/4)..
So it begins! EJ1 EK front FL Conversion continued (4/4)..
The small things..
Wire tuck adventures (1/3)
Wire tuck adventures continued (2/3)..
Wire tuck adventures continued (3/3)..
Passenger side (RHD) Deloom
Engine Removal/gearbox auto to manual (1/2)
Engine Removal/gearbox auto to manual continued (2/2)..
Uppers/downers/converting steering rack/shaving
Fuel delivery system/rack install/engine in the hole/issues with mounts (1/2)..
Fuel delivery system/rack install/engine in the hole/issues with mounts continued (2/2)..
Lopping mounts
Steering wheel srs to none/start of Auto to manual conversion
Update on whats left to do
wiring BS from various stages
wiring BS from various stages continued..
Rear Spoiler/Non AC dash/Battery in boot FAILS

*Other forums like users to make an index post and personally i love reading a build thread that has an index, especially when they are covering certain areas on the build itself, it makes finding a DIY/How to easy.

Anything that you want me to break down and try to cover a bit more in depth just ask, i usually take alot of photos but only share one or two. Also my phone is a POS and likes to blur everything so sometimes not all photos are worth sharing. If i say i watched a youtube vid, im happy to link it (and reference other threads) but that will come with the precious post count..

I'm not trained in anything car related and alot of it is mostly first time tackling head on and using google and other peoples guides, also mixed in is a little common sense, if bolt comes out of there, it will go back there/to undo this or that, just look it over and find the bolts/screws/nuts. I may of mentioned common sense but if you see anything thats completely hackjob or done wrong let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
The car and the plans for it

This had been forsale for the last 6-7months on facebook, the guy wasn't the easiest to deal with over facebook (But damn awesome in person) he didnt seem to give many details out or pics so it was a little bit of luck of the draw and taking a chance on it as it was 3hrs out of town.

So turning up, i could smell the oil burning which appears to be a rocker cover leak in a few spots, apart from that it was fine.


I checked the oil levels before leaving for my journey home and it didnt use a drop, so I plan to scrub the bay clean and recheck for leaks.

I was pleasantly surprised that upon when checking the above, that the rocker cover had vtec on it, the owner hadnt even told me that and i originally had planned to drop one in, so that sorted that. Its also an auto, which the majority of them came in here, so im planning on converting that over to manual - i was going to switch the chassis mount, however i ended up grabbing a conversion mount.

It has a rough tint job done on the rear quarter windows, which im not sure if it was a case of too lazy, person had never tinted before or just a case of tint is on-good enough, the headunit is sitting in the car loosely and has a 6x9s parcel tray job, i plan on reseating the speaker pods so that they seat correctly and if they are wood brackets cutting them on an angle towards the front of the car so that the sound projects forward and then installing some front speakers.

It also didnt come with a double din, i actually had one tucked away but had sold it just weeks earlier. So the plan is modifying a prelude/accord center console in.

Paint job was said to be just a little bit on the side of the car and the roof (from the seller), but to be fair the whole cars paint job was peeling on pretty much every panel.

I originally was pretty happy as that meant a full paint job (which is off the table now) Other plans for the body includes deleting the stock radio mast, fixing the rust in the roof, straighten out a few trolley dings and then while we are at that, start on a EK front conversion.

Overall im happy with the car and what i paid for it.


Lowering will just be a set of King Springs that i have. Also had drum brakes on the rear which i was surprised as i thought all vtec model cars had disc rears - on the fence about converting these to a set of EK SIR rear discs.

Exhaust ive been thinking of gutting a CRV as the pipe is bigger than the pea shooter ej one and then throwing an fgk tip on that i have laying about.

Air induction - im thinking i might cold airbox it with a cf4 accord (aftermarket) intake which is longer than a short ram, it snakes down to right behind the headlight, will just need a little trimming back of which i have laying around.

Will also be removing AC - so will replace the unit in the car dash to a non-ac unit (for that stock non AC) and then put the ac delete panel in the engine bay

Switching the taillights back to normal OEM ones

Also have a wiretuck planned, always wanted one.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
So it begins! EJ1 EK front FL Conversion (1/4)

I went window shopping for the parts to do the front conversion, my initial plan was PFL EK, primarily because of the availability of parts and of course price. I wasn't quite ready for the surprise of being offered a FL front cheap, because for once they had a lack of pfl parts and if i went facelift all i would have to do is find a guard (their words, and also opposed to finding a bumper, headlight and guard).

I decided to get the car road legal to start with (cars must past checks every 6-12months) of which all it need was a rear bush and two tyres. Went to a mates house and picked up tyres on the way back called into a wreckers whose computer stated they had a 99 civic in stock so i ordered the guard off that and went and got the bush and tyres put on. So got the car passed thru those two things it had failed on, cleared some workspace to start the conversion on the front.

With their not being a definite guide out there on how to do a front conversion of which having now done it i understand, its more of a case of making sure you have the parts and just going for it. Most results from google returned "I want to do this" and end with "rice, dont do it etc" One or two results were a little helpful but nothing i would say was a step by step.

I removed the headlights, front bumper, bonnet and then following one of the google result pages, i removed the hinges as we're meant to use the EK hinges.

Turns out ek hinges sit the bonnet higher and make it look like you have bonnet spaces, which im not a fan of.


So switching back to the EJ hinges they drop the bonnet lower, however you now have an issue of the bonnet not clearing the rear top of the firewall, google said to bash the firewall down a little which i was not going to do, so we decided to bash the inside skeleton at the base of the bonnet in, it didnt yeild the best result, so we then coated the bottom inner part of the bonnet in spray on grease (to see where it wasnt clearing) then it was sliced across with a grinder, tucked under itself and tacked, it now sits like it was factory, if i was to come back and do this again, i think i would try bashing the skeleton part of the bonnet harder or go with an aftermarket bonnet that doesnt possibly have that part there..



Next the front was stripped of radiator, AC, aswell the wiring that was clipped (bonnet release horn etc..)

De-spotting the welded on front radiator support began, it went fairly easy, then de-spotting of the ek front radiator support was also done.


 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
So it begins! EJ1 EK front FL Conversion continued (2/4)..


EK front


The ek front radiator support matches up on the eg quite well


Bonnet down with the bumper just sitting there


we played around a little here, tacking the support on and moving stuff around, making sure that when the bonnet was closed that with the front bumper "sitting" where it should that the lines matched up etc

Removed bumper and welded on the new ek radiator support, welds were then tidied up and painted.

We sliced a few inches off the EJ guards, which allowed us to sit the ek lights on the support


The bad news!
The new guard i brought may of been off a 99 ek, but it turned out it was pfl - however by not checking it lined up with the ek fl headlight (which was bolted in car) + running on the knowledge it was from a 99, it was cut in half on the attempt to try mating it up with the current ej guard, a bit pissed that i poured that $$ down the drain, but now i know the differences between the guards.


So skipping to the passenger side.. we trimmed the ej guard back just past where the bumper attaches (pretty much right on where the last inner fender liner is) then cut the other ek guard to give up around 5mm overlap, then trimmed it down after checking how it lined up, the curve of the guards are both different with the ek guard sitting abit taller, we tacked the top of the two guards together, then started at the bottom of the guards tacking upwards, we were left with a bit of a bump, so we sliced into that to try remold and shape the guard.

 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
So it begins! EJ1 EK front FL Conversion continued (3/4)..

Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18 Show Content



Till finally after just a bit more tacking, the welds were tidied up


Bogging was then started and sanded back.



and thats how it currently sits (front bumper isnt attached & bonnet had just been removed but sat back on for the pic)


After sourcing another guard (this time making absolute sure that it was a FL one as it was from out of town) it turned out to be cheaper than the other one i had brought by half the price.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
So it begins! EJ1 EK front FL Conversion continued (4/4)..

It was back to the grind of fitting it up, but first of all before cutting it, it was fitted to the headlight to make sure it was actually a FL guard.

When fitting the guard you also need the EK front bracket (my EJ one is blue, EK one is red) direct replacement :D it helps as a guide for the shaping of the guard and keeping it steady



this side had a few issues, the passenger side guard was full of bog and went on fairly easy, this one was was tidy with no bog so should of been even easier.



this is when we realized it was going to be bad..



then no photos because was too frustrated, in the end I dont know how many cuts ended up being lengthened or sliced in but we got it to a point that it could be welded up.. Which then also caused issues (blowing holes right thru, welds not penetrating correctly etc)


So the above was done on July 25th and for some reason i've never taken a photo of it all on, the guard was sanded back and then taken off and has never been touched again.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
The small things..

Dug out an EK4 SIR FL lip for this which had seen better days so scrapped it.
Bonnet was covered in dust when i got it, have since found a massive ding in it, so hopefully getting a new bonnet and will try bashing the base down instead of cutting it this time - never happened.

Also pulled roof seal off to assess the rust bubble, it isnt too bad and the pic makes it look alot worse - came back and dug out quite a bit with my keys :/


switched the taillights back to oem, there was also a sticker on the boot that said "Honda Express" which ive never heard mentioned before, looks to of been there since leaving the factory.





I had been searching for a monsoon shield for my drivers door as i only had clips there and kept cutting myself on them, i abandoned my search and just removed the clips, i will keep an eye out for one but at the end of the day i will remove my passenger side one so its not some oddsided thing.

how car was sitting


also removed the AC stuff from the engine bay. (So i removed the battery & its tray and removed the two lines from the firewall)

 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Wire tuck adventures (1/3)

I had been thinking of doing a wiretuck turned into me deciding "sure why not, il just do a basic one that i see everywhere on the internet".

Thought i would start on the drivers side, its nearly an instant FU from every guide you read because the cars not LHD however the RHD are fairly similar reversed.

The simple tuck turned quickly into a "IDK what im doing, but why not go all out since im there and doing it".

Since the front of the car was off and i had already removed the guard etc, i unplugged the headlight and radiator fan plugs and undid the grounds, undid the shock tower plugs and unbolted that bracket, unplugged the wires from the brake booster (i was going to keep these but decided to delete them) i then ripped up the windscreen bottom cover and unplugged the wiper motor.

I then decided that i had better remove the dash (*its funny me re-reading this months later, like wtf was i thinking), also removed armrest and seats.


Because i was thinking of going all out i decied to tuck the fusebox and then i wasnt sure if i had to rip out the 3 boxes (blower, ac, heat?) because how else would i fit the fusebox under there. I then went and researched allsorts of random shit (from boat bilge blowers to 12v mini hair dryers). however i have settled on putting in a non ac unit, which should provide me room for a fusebox *i think*

having abandoned the inside of the car while i had been doing my research, i promptly came back and started unplugging stuff in the engine bay.



i had read that i was going to have to de-pin the washer plug and the shock tower plugs, so i fumbled around trying to figure out how to depin the damn wiper plug, google lead me to some page that shows how to de-pin all the different honda plug types (great success) finally unpinned the wiper motor plug and pushed that cable with bung still attached back into the engine bay, pulled the bung from the firewall for the cables and then started pushing the cable back thru (with all bungs and clips attached) after some niggly going back and forth from cabin to engine bay i realized i had got all plugs thru without having to de-pin any of them apart from the wiper motor.




Admittedly i was so happy with how that looked

I found that the cables plugged into two plugs inside the cabin and after unplugging these and pulling the whole drivers side harness out of the car completely, i was a god, i had conquered the wiring, it was going to be so easy..
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Wire tuck adventures continued (2/3)..

Reading up on other threads it explains that the you split the loom from each of the plugs in the cabin (brown & grey) and then re-wrap them.

I pulled the tape off and cable wrap and then in my great thoughts and tripping on how well i done, i took two quick pictures of the main plugs and depinned them both, i slid the grommet from the firewall off and congratulated myself because i had done this without cutting anything.


I then separated the looms and my world came crashing down on me, instead of using the label machine i had sitting there or using bits of tape and writting on them, i had two blurry pictures of a shitload of wire that was green on yellow and yellow on green (repeat for many different colours) it also needed re-pinning and wrapped back up.


So that lead me spending hours and hours searching wire diagrams for some plugs that google thinks are ecu plugs or google thinks they are shock tower plugs. It took me about 30 hours of reading everything i could find, im pretty sure they are correct but i wont know untill i turn the car on.


i then moved onto making sure my drivers side wires reached because theres quite a few guides that say you got cut and extend.. but i had plenty of length.



so i taped up the loom, i pushed the loom from the front of the car to the back as it was only two plugs (brown plug & wiper motor, instead of the radiator fan plug, headlights, indicators, earth etc) I used a coat hanger and taped the plugs to it, pulled them out the other end then i pushed the wiper motor plug back into the hole and up, to get it thru to the motor its a bit of a mission and hella tight.



then i decided i didnt want to attack my door harness and cut a slit into it (as per nearly every guide on the net) so i had noticed a bung next to the bonnet cable, took that out and found it went to the cabin, so i drilled the center of the bung out, depinned the brown plug pushed everything thru, repinned the brown plug and plugged in the bung
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Wire tuck adventures continued (3/3)..

next i got started on the passenger side (RHD remember) I started by undoing the fusebox, loosened it, flipped it over and unplugged the wires to it, then i undid the car passenger side shock tower plugs and the other one that goes down behind manifold




Then went to the front of the car and unclipped all the other plugs (lights, ac, washer bottle)


Then into the cabin and unclipped/unplugged the wires infront of the ac/heat/blowers and ripped out the two left boxes



then pushed all the plugs back thru the hole in the firewall. I also didnt realize the passenger side loom had to be done in the car as it doesnt unplug.


Done!
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Passenger side (RHD) Deloom

Got into the cabin and pulled all the sleeving/tape off the looms that i had poked back thru the firewall previously.


i stripped that right back to pretty much about an inch from the firewall.


the wires that i put a red slash thru are the ac wires that ran up to the front of the car, since ive removed the ac i just cut those wires


there were more but i depinned them out (earths) I did mean to trace all the wires back but i couldnt be bothered removing the whole loom from the car to do so, so i will tidy the left over 4 wires later on.
i separated the inside looms into the;-
1. fusebox group (deloomed the earths to make separate ones)
2. engine harness loom (this also needed one of the earths deloomed)
3. lights, window washer fluid and the earth relay block - the earth relay block is what i depinned the other earths from
fusebox loom pic


found the same bung on this side of the car (apparently they are for sunroof drains on sunroof cars *unconfirmed)

drilled a whole thru and started feeding wires thru the hole then thru the bung


Ran the wires to the front of the car because apparently your meant to cut these ones and extend them...?


wires reach no problem! so threaded that thru the inner guard part using a coat hanger after wrapping it up in electrical tape (im planning on pulling it all out later on and wrapping sleeving stuff over it)


then none of the inside has been touched since.. (about a month or two ago)
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Engine Removal/gearbox auto to manual (1/2)

engines and motors are the same thing to me, i call motorcycles motorcycles not engine cycles ;)

With the drivers side wiring of the car technically all run and just needing cable wrap over the top of it, I decided it was time to pull the motor so that i could cut the hole in the firewall to run the wires thru for the motor and to route the wires around the motor, i was also not prepared to learn what plug went where with the motor in the car due to space.

with most of the motor having everything unplugged there was little left to really do, i got stuck with the heater core hoses as the way i usually remove hoses (with vice grips and twisting etc) i thought i had crushed the pipes so stopped with that method, i followed the hoses back to the motor and undid them there, pushed the clips thru the firewall into the cabin, then ripped the box out..


the place where the car is has a few hoists, but couldnt book some time on them, so i decided to drop the motor out then and there on the ground. It took next to nothing to get it out


then i ran into an old issue of not having a jack (because no engine crane) that would raise the car high enough to pull the engine out from under it. at the time i had never thought about jacking it up off the subframe, which ended up happening and there was lots of clearance to pull it out the side infront of the hubs



with the motor out of the car i decided i would split the auto box from the motor, having never done this before i started off with the casing and then attacked the lower exhaust and then onto cover plate at the bottom and then it was back to good ol google for a step by step guide of which i learnt about the starter motor bolt and it adviced the torque convertor bolts aswell.


then put it on my work bench with a great back drop, it may look sketch but its solid


this provided a good height to access all the wires/plugs, i had previously been given a spare d15b sohc vtec engine loom so laid this up next to it and it matched up
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Engine Removal/gearbox auto to manual continued (2/2)..

i took lots of photos and then pulled all the plugs off, breaking only one (which was oil pressure under the intake manifold)



Motor was dirty af, you can see some in the above pic (with no loom)


scrubbed it down for awhile and it came up cleaner than it was. - its still fairly dirty tho...


i had an oddball dseries box that was mated up to a sohc zc from a dc2 teg. its code is s8g i looked it up and apparently its ratios are better, i do have 3 s20 boxes laying around so worst comes to worse il switch one of them in.
so with the knowledge of now knowing how to split box from motor i went and did so, i managed to get the clutch off but at the time couldnt get the flywheel bolts off (read shit tools) and no crank pulley holders etc I sorted this by borrowing my favorite tool every


no need to jam anything in the teeth or hold the crank pulley from turning. Instant off!! (absoulte godsend with cv nuts too) i dont think its failed to loosen any bolts/nuts yet in its lifespan.


when i first purchased tools i thought they were all relatively equal, mines so good it cant even loosen wheel nuts! its small and light so when doing nuts and bolts its ideal.


So with the success of the above, i finally got the manual gearbox mated up. which of course needed a matching stand
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Uppers/downers/converting steering rack/shaving
then to copy paste from the intro thread...

Nothing has happened with it. I was messing around with the engine loom trying to make it reach thru the firewall, however it was too short, i then decided i wanted to do the loom properly (not cut and extend it) and tried to figure out which pins and wire size to order.
I dont have any money to spare on the build and i really cant afford to mess up the order and have to order twice etc
i havent found anything concrete on what to order, now dont get me wrong here ive searched for weeks and i have so many part numbers for pins its not funny.
I started making a spreadsheet file on the harness loom, which plugs to which, which wire gauge, wire colour, wire order, pin type etc but kept getting frustrated as i couldnt find the nitty information that i needed like plugs, all i could find on plugs is ecu or dizzy.
I pm'd a few people asking if i could buy some sort of wiring kit so that i could make my own loom which would save in costs since i cant afford one all done. this hasnt gone anywhere.
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Went to try sort out paint and my paint options are too many, i wanted to sand it back -> primer it -> and dare i say it matte black it (I hate matte black but im just a little over it all and wanted the car to be reasonably the same colour)
Paint ive always thought was all the same and all the paint shops that ive been to want me to do it properly and the rough quote prices has been about $200 of which id budgeted just under half that, not expecting it to be even that.
i still havent fixed the rust in the roof or patched up the aerial delete hole and to top it all we currently cant paint anything because of overspray issues on other cars, cant cover up the other cars or throw sheets up because of the size of the shop.
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i decided i would take a new approach to getting the car done and work on converting the power steering to manual, so i cut the lines to the reservoir to clear up the bay and give myself some workspace under there, then i kind of decided to try figure how to take the rack out of the bay without dropping the subframe, was on my fone searching for a how to on how to do this but photobucket messed all the pics up (couldnt install the add-on to fix it on my fone) so called it quits.
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attempted to do more to the car (attempt # no idea). decided to take out the auto shifter, the inside of the car was full of rubbish, interior, bits of electrical tape from the loom that id taken off and crap everywhere. cars clean, motivation was gone.
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i dont know the last time ive worked on it, its frustrated the hell out of me the wiring i would like done so that i can put the dash back in and tuck the fusebox under there, however i dont want to put the motor in there without painting the front, i dont want to paint the front without painting the rust hole (which still isnt fixed) and aerial hole at the same time. ive been tempted to kick it off the jackstands a few times and just scrap the car but i need the money from selling it, of which il do if it ever gets back together.
and then a week after writing that
well after writing that up the other day i was half motivated to go do something.
I undid the top of the auto shifter, so that next time im under it i can just undo the bolts and then it will lift out.
Also removed steering column as im planning on putting a dc2 one in (non air bag no messing around with clock springs to earth the horn etc)
after doing the above i also pulled the auto pedal box out, theres some relay over the clutch firewall hole, so i need to find out wtf that is.
finally rotated the brake booster 180 to hide the hose thing (that comes off it and goes to the back of the intake manifold - no idea of the name, but i lost the valve thing).
Cars starting to get messed with.. its in a massive shared space, bits have gone missing and the guards have been dented, wirings been messed with and ripped out of where i had it (also been stretched and now has some wires exposed). also has had someone spray paint random shit on it.
Plan is to get it rolling and bring it home and go over it.
seriously pissed off about it
so last week i decided to get in and get shit done.

Aerial hole finally deleted!
having previously removed the aerial it was time to grind the hole


make a template (cut out a rough bit of metal square) put it inside the hole and then coloured over the hole which left the oval shape on the bit of metal, then cut that out, applied tacks


grind welds down #whataerial


Roof rust was hit aswell (before the grind), secret to this is to undo the trim inside the car (pillar) undo the sun visor, pull the roof down a little and then stuff a wet cloth in (also did he cloth on the inside of the boot to hold the template in place) then take breaks between welds, do this so that the heat doesnt mess with the windscreen


removed old powersteering rack, job tomorrow is to clean up bay


Manual Steering rack reporting for duty!
had a spare powersteering rack laying around so following brents itr build (off nzhondas) and using the photobucket browser plugin to get the pics we got cracking, had to press out some of it. we also cut the hose nubs and welded them up


Paint station


ready for the grease up and reinstall
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Fuel delivery system/rack install/engine in the hole/issues with mounts (1/2)..

Cleaned the bay!


So i couldnt reach the firewall (imma big big guy) so i tried getting it with brooms and shit but once it dried it looked pretty much looked the same way before i had started.

Pulled the autoshifter all out


Installed the converted rack


decided i didnt need fuel lines


So cut the filter out and also removed the vapor line that would of gone from the canister


then cut the fuel line back to its firewall bracket and flared it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Fuel delivery system/rack install/engine in the hole/issues with mounts continued (2/2)..

Being honest i dont know what i have planned for the fuel lines, proably just get an inline filter and hose clamp some fuel hoses together.

having met my somewhat todo list, next was putting in the motor


i was only going to do the gearbox mount and the engine mount but it seemed off to me

(not sure if you can tell in the pic but its not sitting straight)

so i thought id also do the rear mount because to me they are the main ones and you cant really fail if they all do up.

i dont know how many combinations we tried of loosing and tightening but it wouldnt work, we even changed in an s20 box!

this is the underside of the front of the gearbox mount (torque) even tho you dont have to run it, you can see that it sits a good inch out


I did buy the mount second hand, however i do have pictures of it installed fine so im not blaming the seller - who btw offered a full refund.

Going to go back and attempt one or two more ways before i do do a refund and just lop off a manual chassis mount and reweld it on.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Lopping mounts

played around somemore, absolutely couldnt get it to line up


so said f it, dropped the motor to have some room to work


and lopped off the mount by drilling out the spot welds of the auto mount


smoothed that over


put the motor in and did up existing mounts


Inline fuel filter pics

 
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