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Discussion Starter #1
This car is my daily driver. I am running on 21 psi for right now. I have a hondata s300, eagle rods, wiseco pistons, walboro 255, 880 precision injectors, .60/.63 turbo, stock head. When I hit boost, everything goes pretty well until I let off, then it starts cutting up really bad for a couple minutes and sometimes even shuts off. Does anyone know why it would do this?
 

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You have a WB? What readings do you get when it acts up?

Were you tuned on those 880s? Has the fuel you use changed?
 

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i have pretty much the same setup and mine did exactly the same and when i took it back to the tuner it ended up being the o2 sensor it was getting soaked with fuel. he did something on the hondata that eliminated the o2 and now it runs fine. hope i could help.
 

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i have pretty much the same setup and mine did exactly the same and when i took it back to the tuner it ended up being the o2 sensor it was getting soaked with fuel. he did something on the hondata that eliminated the o2 and now it runs fine. hope i could help.
He disable the o2. What happen with your setup is that it was tuned off a wideband. He then made the maps for it your car. But im guessing he able the stock o2 after he was done. So you car goes into close loop?(reading from o2) And it starts to bog and act funny because that o2 is overly rich. So when you took it back to him he jsut disable the o2.

To the op it could be that or could be that the car is to rich and the cylinders are full of fuel so when you drop back out of boost it bogs till all that fuel clears up.

OP if you really need help post more information
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Whats the afr? Could be to rich , fouling out plugs
You have a WB? What readings do you get when it acts up?

Were you tuned on those 880s? Has the fuel you use changed?
No, I don't have wideband. I keep my laptop on all the time in my car to check everything. No, the fuel has not changed. Yes, it was just tuned on the 880's a week ago (not on a dyno).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i have pretty much the same setup and mine did exactly the same and when i took it back to the tuner it ended up being the o2 sensor it was getting soaked with fuel. he did something on the hondata that eliminated the o2 and now it runs fine. hope i could help.
Well I hope I don't have to eliminate the o2 sensor, I just had him put a new one in right before he tuned it.

He disable the o2. What happen with your setup is that it was tuned off a wideband. He then made the maps for it your car. But im guessing he able the stock o2 after he was done. So you car goes into close loop?(reading from o2) And it starts to bog and act funny because that o2 is overly rich. So when you took it back to him he jsut disable the o2.

To the op it could be that or could be that the car is to rich and the cylinders are full of fuel so when you drop back out of boost it bogs till all that fuel clears up.

OP if you really need help post more information
Is there a way for me to read what the o2 is doing instead of getting wideband? I know the reading is on my laptop, but I'm not sure what it means. The last time I was looking at it, it was around .85, that was at idle.
 

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No, I don't have wideband. I keep my laptop on all the time in my car to check everything. No, the fuel has not changed. Yes, I was just tuned on the 880's a week ago (not on a dyno).
Was a wideband used during the tuning? If you dont have a wideband in the car you are not monitoring the engine very well. Unless of course you have an EGT gauge hooked up. It will be hard to help you with the issue if we dont know what the afrs look like during the problem.
Narrowband= SUX
Wideband=FTW!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm sorry, but I'm not sure what egt is? You can see the a/f on the laptop (that is what it says, anyway). It read around .85 at idle, if that means anything. Do I still need wideband?

Ps, sorry for the stupid questions, I'm semi-new to all of this.
 

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No, what you are seeing is narrow-band voltage readings which mean absolutely nothing! Without a wideband o2 sensor (and the equipment) there's not much help we can provide. You said it was tuned but not on a dyno. Who tuned it, what did they use, and [email protected]!! 20psi on just about any turbo is going to cause some wheel spin issues making it nearly impossible to get a "good" street tune. I'm just curious how and where it was so called tuned. I know I had a bitch of a time street tuning my high boost. The dyno showed that I was waaay off.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
O, well that sucks. Yeah, it deffinatly has some wheel spin to about 80 mph. I'm not sure what I should do. I get wideband? Btw, I'm in central PA, and the closest dyno is 2.5 hours away, and this is my daily driver. The guy that tuned it is the owner of Next Level Racing near Altoona.

Edit: I have some money saved up that was going to go toward tires, but I guess wideband would be a better investment. Where is the best place to get one? (Does anyone have one for sale on here?) And what kind should I get? I've seen AEM's on ebay for around $180. Is that good?

Edit 2: My mechanic said all of this could be caused by weak spark, because I still have the stock ignition system. He said I should really upgrade everything. It would be about $400. Should I get the ignition or should I get wideband? I wish I would have money for both but I really don't.
 

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Wideband is a must. Im saving for one right now.
the stock o2 is .3 lean .4 - .45 stoch and .5 and up is rich. Stock o2 sucks tho so you cant read it right. It isnt what the volt are its how many times it crosses over so if you read .6 .7 .5 .9 .8 .4 .6 .8 that would be rich because all the numbers are on the rich side. But using a stock o2 for tuning or even monitor is like using your finger instead of a tape measure
 

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O, so you are saying my .85 is really rich then?
with narrow band there is only lean stoch rich. There is no amount. Like a little rich or very rich, its just rich With a wideband you could tell how rich or lean you are. i.e the wideband could say that your 10:1 which is fueling the motor rich. Or it could say your 12:1 which is rich but making power rich which you would leave be.
 

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The AEM would be perfect for you, its easy to use and accurate.
and LC-1 is faster updating and a lil cheaper but its harder to setup and doesnt have a gauge.

But yes, you need to have one. The narrow band Lambda reading youre looking at is totally useless.
 

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i dont have a wideband and never have and they tuned it fine. then like i said when i went back all they did was disable the o2.
Tuning without a wideband is like trying the find the hole from the other side of the room while blindfolded and using your friends penis.

It (just) doesn't work.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Okay, it looks like I'm getting a wideband guage. He tuned it pretty good, well, alot better than it was tuned anyways. How critical is the ignition system to get? I'm pushing around 350-370 hp.

Ps: If you are not sure what I am talking about with the ignition system, read post #11
 

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Did the tuner tune only with what is in the car now, or did he bring his own wideband? I find it hard to believe anyone who owns a shop would try to tune anything with a narrowband, especially not anything on 20 psi of boost.

Are you sure you dont have a wideband hooked up, just without a gauge (not trying to be a dick, but I dont know if you built it yourself or not, so just asking)? 0.85 could be lambda as well. Not sure where you are located, but the local tuners over here use lambda, not afr.


And no, you probably dont need to upgrade ignition, stock stuff has been proven before. A tune-up could be a good idea, though. What are your plugs gapped at?
 
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