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ex-g (canadian)
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What about a cheap setup like that? Could be build with less than 400~500$

d15b7 block (deck 0.07" since the p29 piston sit in the block)
d15b7 head
0.5mm over p29 piston
2 layer head gasket
z6 intake manifold
delta 272 camshaft
cheap cam gear
ebay header
chipped p06

would give more than 12:1 cr


i plan to buy a 92 cx (canada... so its a d15b7) as a winter beater
d15b7... free already in car
p29 piston 150$ on ebay
getting block deck and bore to 75.5mm xxx$ <--- dont know how much
z6 intake... i have one laying around
gasket.. i have a y8 laying around here used but only 10'000miles
delta 272... worth 125$?
cam gear... 50-60 buck shipped on ebay
ebay header 100$
chipped p06... i have a couple at home

i think the big concern would be the timing belt, since the block would be deck 0.07" is it too much?

just having an idea like that for maybe a future cheap build
 

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D-series Janitor
Front Engine Dragste
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you might want to check on .070".

Thats a lot of material.
 

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The Great Weldini
91 civic
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here's a start. then ask if this possible. but you have a better build w/a a6 block. now as for a cam gear i wouldn't skimp out on it. you wouldn't want it to slip and bend a valve or put a valve thru the top of you piston.
http://www.zealautowerks.com/dseries.html
 

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ex-g (canadian)
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
you might want to check on .070".

Thats a lot of material.
its 1.778mm... i might have to grind tranny case a little bit... but in my opinion... i think it would be doable

but if you have other to say against that, keep them flowing

as for the cam gear... a used aem or even a 5 bolt obx... should do just fine
by the way.. i said 12:1... took that on zeal, right number should be 12,26:1 i think
 

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yellow bar for me
viper blue 92 eg
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my canadian cx model was a d15b8. 8valve motor FTL
 

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ex-g (canadian)
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i know civic are built in Alliston, ontario Canada...

but canadian market (cdm) cx are d15b7
usdm market had the 8valve
 

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see above
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never mind. im drunk.
 

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ex-g (canadian)
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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
for the timing belt... maybe i could use a shorter one

i read somewhere b7 had 106 teeth and z6 104 teeth
so maybe the z6 could be use... or maybe an hf timing belt...
unless the tensionner can handle .07" and a slimer HG... on a b7 belt
 

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if youre gonna bore, go all the way to 1mm over (.040)

One of the best things I've done. I used Rock pistons, they were like 60 ish new. It was like 100 with rings.
 

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I didnt know you could use gasket's more than once on a head.. wouldnt you want to buy new gaskets and everything?
 

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He is only saying .070 because thats what big tuna took off his. Not a bad idea though, theres a hona tuning where they made like 132 hp or maybe 142 i dont remember, anyway they built it for less than
half the price of a b-swap.
 

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the only way to learn, is by doing. do some research, try it out. maybe you can do a budget build that involves a little less questionables like the timing belt issue? then you can post up your results and we will all be smarter because of your work.
 

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.070 sounds a little extreme, I went .040 and I am happy, except every once and a while I get the check engine light after I'm up in the 7000 rpm range, but other than that, everything was good. Although, I would ask a machine shop and make sure that you'll still have enough valve clearance. Most machine shops will tell you you're retarded for shavin the head that much. However I would like to know more, so I would just go and do it....just when you put the head back on you'll need the adjustable cam gear to advance the timing a hair due to the retard you'll have after shavin the head. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
i'm not talking about shaving the head... it's about shaving the block, since the p29 in a d15 block are sitting in the cylinder. I might do it if i have spare time next autumn ;)
 

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The H Badge is it!
91 crx
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if you deck the block, the oil squirter wont sit down far enough. the only way you could deck the block that much i thought would be to use something like a y7 or a z6 or y8 head... one that has the oil squirter in the head.

a better idea would be to mill the head .048" and use a 2 layer headgasket... b7 pistons are flat top...

11.47:1

thats close enough to 12:1 for it to still breathe deep
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
for the oil squirter... just have to remove it... shave block... enlarge oil squirter hole a little bit at the bottom... put it back

I dont really like the idea of shaving the head... it play with the valve clearance too much... and when you mill the head that much... you have no room for error.

Anyway... i'd like to do that or wait a little bit on transex for his d15b8 build (vx rod with p29... 0.05 of the block) since i have a d15z1 engine in my car right now while i build my z6...
 

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Front Engine Dragste
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I dont really like the idea of shaving the head... it play with the valve clearance too much
And decking the block won't?

I would much rather take it out of the head than out of the block. If you had *no* chamber you would essentially have 0 valve shrouding. Besides, flame front travel is much easier across the piston face than in a chamber.

If you take .070 out of anything, you should check ptv clearance anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I'm by no mean a good mechanic or a good scientific, maybe you are right or maybe i am right or maybe we are both wrong
but check this diagram and tell me, which number you prefer between #2 and #3

#2 has 0.07" shaved head
#3 has 0.07" shaved block
My diagram is not to scale and sucks.. but it explain in some sort of way my point ;)




oh and piston to valve clearance should be check like you said... you are right on that point

anyway... just trying to think outside the box...
 
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