possible kill switch with relay

Ok Georgia EG and Oldcivicjoe this should answer all your questions, yes fuel pump has power but would run full throttle lol as soon as the key would turn to car on engine off position 2 i believe. no spark on 1-4 from distributor to plugs. So naturally I went toward the distributor coil and ignitor which has always been an issue with honda engines. Seemed logical. Then I noticed that this distributor had no blue and black w/yellow stripe wire for the tach output. This is the reason for the relay under the dash. The relay is hooked to the tach so first thing came to mind was a ignition kill switch through relay. Looked like i was on right track at this point. Everything is adding up especially when I came across the relay under dash OldcivicJoe. I literally have tested almost every system on this civic from injectors to ignition to security system every possible sensor and ohmed wiring out for shorts or opens. WTF at this point, right? So as any mechanic would do I start from the beginning and retrace all work I have done and verified proper installation and then moved on to the engine compartment and harness. Then it dawned on me. When testing the injectors you should get 12v across both pins. When grounded the injectors will pulse on and off. No go they stayed 12v solid while cranking or just ignition on no run. Has to be an open ground. As soon as I realized that my injectors were not operating, fuel pump constant power and no spark to my plugs and everything else checks and balances there was no doubt I was missing a freaking ground (s). So my conclusion is this. The injectors must have a negative or ground to operate along with 12v constant. Spark plugs must have a ground to the cylinder head or block.along with the valve cover or no spark even though you may have power at the harness side connector. Distributor, coil and ignitor all checked out. So while searching and testing and cussing I remebered seeing the ground ring terminal and one was broken. Didnt see the end of bare wire so I connected to thermo housing and moved on assuming that the brown wires were spliced into the black wire under the tape and loom. My dumb ass fualt there. Lessoned learnt. I stll am cleaning some stuff up and then going back out to retest for spark and injector cycle. Since I connected the grounds though correctly the fuel pump primes for 2-3 seconds and is standbye. All running ligjhts and interior lights and dash lighhts, radio, etc. are operational. At this point it looks like I solved it with the help of D-Series.org awesome and knowlagable members. I will post an update ijn couple hrs after I verify my timing for the 29th time and crank her up. Thanks guys for the help as hard as it may be to diagnose over internet GeargiaEG, if we get good at the hard shit then the rest of life is no comparison.