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The same as any other pump ported, getting rid of any sharp edges and smoothing the port is always good for a pump. I wouldn't shim it though.
I second this. Just smoothing it out and giving the oil a clear path to the oil passage in the pump will suffice. Shimming it isn't necessary
 

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Prelude, Integra DB9
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I guess it depends on what else you're doing.
On its own, you'll notice nothing; as part of a raft of changes, it might just be of benefit.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The motor is built and turbo. The pump is ported already (just the hole to the block because try as I might, I couldn't get those screws out) but it's old so I was thinking about getting a new one and trying again but didn't want to waste the time and effort if it didn't really do anything.
 

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The motor is built and turbo. The pump is ported already (just the hole to the block because try as I might, I couldn't get those screws out) but it's old so I was thinking about getting a new one and trying again but didn't want to waste the time and effort if it didn't really do anything.
I couldnt get those screws out as well. I used an impact driver *WARNING* You can crack the oil pump gear cover using an impact driver. then i bought a new one and was able to remove them without a driver.
 

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I've found that if you try and remove those countersunk bolts by hand with a phillips, you have almost a 50% chance of rolling over the edges on the cross feature.

I've had much more success (like 80-90%) with a cordless drill and largest phillips bit I could stick in the head of those bolts.

I've had 4 d-series oil pumps apart and only 2-3 bolts across all of them have been easy to remove. Guess the heat contraction/expansion is bad there.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Looks like I just need to get a humongous Phillips and give it a shot. New pump is on the way so I'll see how it goes with that one.
 

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The largest phillips bit you can stick in there will work . . . obviously you can go too big.

I think the main benefit from using a drill (or impact to remove?) is that you can push all of your weight into the pump whereas with a screwdriver you are using some weight/energy to also twist the handle.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I tried again on my old pump and just screwed up the slots more. I'm going to find a huge Phillips bit and stick it in a 6mm socket and try to use a ratchet like a bit driver so I can get more leverage.
 

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EG5T
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Just drill them and after the porting use new screws. Use a center, to gently hummer the Phillips screws, so they don't brake your drill bit(8mm iirc). It comes out perfect.
 

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In the past I used my largest driver that would fit the screw that was a hex-shaped shaft. Gave the butt end of the driver a mild smack to seat it, then used a locking pliers on the driver shaft to turn the driver thus turning the screw.
 

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If you can swing it, get a D16A6/D16Z6 oil pump and don't bother with porting or shimming. It'll flow just fine on a B7 with a turbo and an oil cooler even. FWIW pressure isn't made at the pump; volume is.
 

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93 maybe 94 coupe
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Yall ever freeze the heads w canned air to shrink it up before trying?
 
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