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Formerly weebeastie
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Discussion Starter #1
So I just thought I would share some preliminary photo's of the Blox intake that I'm working on right now. This intake is going on the engine in my signature, so I'll have some numbers in a month or so once all the parts are installed and the car is retuned.


First pic: This is what a Blox looks like in the plenum with no modifications. The closest thing I liken the intake port shape to is a guitar pick. Very thick and boxey around the runner openings.



Second Pic: This is almost finished, just had to complete some measurements and attach the extension to the drill to hit the middle of the runners with the flapper wheel.



Third pic: This is a finished pic through the throttle body opening.




I know this has been done before, just thought I'd post the prelim pic before modification so everyone can see why a Blox intake is not a good off the shelf part, unless you're replacing something like a b7 or a6 intake with it.
 

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Looks great man. Were there any shitty spots/casting flaws or just basically smoothing the casting and polishing was all it needed? You welding the top back on or epoxy?
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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Discussion Starter #4
This will be tig welded back together here in our shop, in fact all I have to do is remeasure everything, clean it, then its getting welded up. I'll post some more pics when its done. I'll also have some pics of the runners.


As far as flaws, yes there were many flaws with this intake. Specifically that the runner openings were very angular with no smooth transition. Each runner divider also had a huge spot of casting flash near the base (wide part) of the divider. I also found that there was quite a bit of core shift in the runners as they mated to the cylinder head, so that had to addressed as well. Many of the tapped holes (fuel rail specifically) are not tapped very well. Overall it just looked like the intake lacked QC, but once those problems were addressed it started to get better.

As far as the finished runners go the middle pic is nearly complete, but I still removed more material. It doesn't really look like it in the pics, but I removed a lot of material. This pic was about 8 hours in. I know that some would say that I should open it all the way up, but creating too much of a low pressure area in the plenum could slow port velocity and my aim was to increase port velocity as well as volume because the engine will peak at around 8000-8200 rpms. Therefore I took the bowl area/short turn radius into account as I sized the port openings of each individual runner in the plenum. This intake design is shaped somewhat like a funnel and decreases in size as it reaches the bowl area. *Hint* Each runner is a different size (only slightly though), gotcha thinkin?

I did the long area's of the runner with a drill, a craftsman extension, and a flapper wheel. You must use the wheels with small stems like a dremel tool because the collet is smaller for the extension. The ext. I have is about 3 feet long and works well, just have to use lower RPM's on the cutting tool. Thats why I used a 3/8" drill.

more pics to come in the next few days.
 

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As far as flaws, yes there were many flaws with this intake. Specifically that the runner openings were very angular with no smooth transition. Each runner divider also had a huge spot of casting flash near the base (wide part) of the divider. I also found that there was quite a bit of core shift in the runners as they mated to the cylinder head, so that had to addressed as well.
Funny you mention this its Identicle to my Skunk2 manifold. Keep in mind my Skunk2 manifold is from 10 years ago, not the new ones with the badge on it. Blox gets them from the same supplier overseas.

And check this BS out. They call the old manifolds 'fakes' after they retooled the molds to get rid of the flaws.
http://www.skunk2.com/editorial/intakeComparo.pdf
 

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Formerly weebeastie
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Discussion Starter #8
Funny you mention this its Identicle to my Skunk2 manifold. Keep in mind my Skunk2 manifold is from 10 years ago, not the new ones with the badge on it. Blox gets them from the same supplier overseas.

And check this BS out. They call the old manifolds 'fakes' after they retooled the molds to get rid of the flaws.
http://www.skunk2.com/editorial/intakeComparo.pdf
LOL, I know!

They call them fakes because they don't want their prestigious name to go along with poorly cast manifolds. Now those being sold today as Skunk2 manifolds that look like this one are fakes because they no longer sell them from that supplier. So in a way they are telling the truth, but they did sell this exact manifold as a Skunk2 part several years back, then Blox took over.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
different sized runners for a broader tq curve? just an idea.
Danz, you're on the right track. ITB's or Carbs have no 90* turn to make to enter the intake runner, therefore the runner/port on a plenum based intake must be sized for volume and vacuum signal as you approach the throttle body opening. This sizing of the manifold port is also relevant in the head ports. ITB's and Carb's are more even cylinder to cylinder because they're not fighting for air like a plenum intake does. If a given cylinder needs more air it has the opportunnity to get it. The sizing of the ports is to even out the air intake of each cylinder, so that all cylinder's are matched as best as possible.

PM for more info. I only want to supply enough so that others will think.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Damn I didn't expect the inside to look like that. Thanks for posting the pics.
Me neither, but this proves why the first time I hit the dyno with the blox it peaked at 6500 rpm versus the 7200 Bisimoto advertised for the camshaft.......


Also debating on contacting Glenniz or Nick to see if I can get a TBIRA or get the CAD plans to machine one myself........
 

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Me neither, but this proves why the first time I hit the dyno with the Blox it peaked at 6500 rpm versus the 7200 Bisimoto advertised for the camshaft.......


Also debating on contacting Glenniz or Nick to see if I can get a TBRIA or get the CAD plans to machine one myself........

I'm still trying to get a hold of Nick. I emailed and sent him a PM two days ago but have not heard from him yet. I'll send him another email today.

Bye the way....I just finished up a modified version of the cold air intake. I have been able to make a mixture of microscopic hollow glass beads and two parts of resin to make a heat insulation barrier for the intake. By sandwiching a 5mm layer of this mixture in between the final two of the six layers of fiberglass fabric, I was able to get the CAI internal air temps down by another 25 degrees. I'm also going to give it a try with pure Carbon Fiber, my supplier says that CF will reflect even more heat than fiberglass.

So far, my very non-scientific testing has shown the internal air temps inside the CAI while the engine is idling at normal operating temperature to be 84 to 95 degrees. The engine compartment air hovers at around 167 degrees, I will rig something up so that I can test the temps of the engine compartment and the air inside the intake to see how low I can get the temps down to when the car is rolling at highway speed.


I'll post up some pictures a little later today.
 

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Have you thought about shortening the runners for more top end? Similar to the runners on the B series Edelbrock manifold. Just a thought, you think it will work? I was thinking about doing this to my D series Edelbrock.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Have you thought about shortening the runners for more top end? Similar to the runners on the B series Edelbrock manifold. Just a thought, you think it will work? I was thinking about doing this to my D series Edelbrock.

I think if I wanted a shorter runner I would just cut open a y8 intake instead of trying to shorten the runners on this intake. I think that the y8 would be a good candidate for what you're talking about doing.

I'm still trying to get a hold of Nick. I emailed and sent him a PM two days ago but have not heard from him yet. I'll send him another email today.

Bye the way....I just finished up a modified version of the cold air intake. I have been able to make a mixture of microscopic hollow glass beads and two parts of resin to make a heat insulation barrier for the intake. By sandwiching a 5mm layer of this mixture in between the final two of the six layers of fiberglass fabric, I was able to get the CAI internal air temps down by another 25 degrees. I'm also going to give it a try with pure Carbon Fiber, my supplier says that CF will reflect even more heat than fiberglass.

So far, my very non-scientific testing has shown the internal air temps inside the CAI while the engine is idling at normal operating temperature to be 84 to 95 degrees. The engine compartment air hovers at around 167 degrees, I will rig something up so that I can test the temps of the engine compartment and the air inside the intake to see how low I can get the temps down to when the car is rolling at highway speed.


I'll post up some pictures a little later today.
Awesome man! The work you guys are doing is truly great. Now once you've got the CF figured out I need to get one from you...lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So if anyone was wondering: The Acid Beaver............is the man!

Thanks man, there will definitely be a build thread coming.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hey Glenn, how close does the TBIRA come to the firewall on your car? I'm just wondering how tight the fit would be on my 91 Civic with the blox intake since it comes a lot closer to the firewall.
 

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Hey Glenn, how close does the TBIRA come to the firewall on your car? I'm just wondering how tight the fit would be on my 91 Civic with the blox intake since it comes a lot closer to the firewall.

I've got a 95 Civic 4dr Sedan so it does'nt even come close to the firewall. As soon as I finish making breakfast for the family I'll go out to the garage and measure the distance of the outer most edge of the TBRIA to the outer most part of the Throttle Body. I'll post it in about twenty minutes as well as with some pictures.
 
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