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i am new to this sight and i love it already.nice people, good info and man overall i think it is a nice community.
 

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FF Misfit
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Suggestions Needed

I decided to try doing my own P&P before I do my b7/Y8 mini-me. I've already opened up the ports as much as I think I want to so now I'm just looking for suggestions on what to use to get the right texture on the intake and exhaust ports. I plan on mirror finishing the exhaust, and smoothing out the intake while still leaving tiny verticle ridges to help w/ atomization. Also, should I do the same texture on my IM or just open it up more. I've already port matched it and was just palnning to do the same on it as the intake ports.

ANY SUGGESTIONS??????
 

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90si said:
if your going inside the head more then an inch Do not "blade" the intake ports seperator, leave it as fat as you can (you can lay it back a lot).
I do blade the exhaust ports.
Oh and most alloy cutting bits do not like to be run at full rpm , it melts the alloy to the bit and kills it. You will get a better cut @ 39-46k rpm and not waste our bits. teach yourself NOT to chatter the bit.

Hope this helps
good info!
I couldn't believe how fast I was going through my grinding bits when I cleaned up my head. And those shits are not cheap! I was getting melted alloy stuck all over the bits... Now I know why!!!
I'll have to see if I can rig up a dimmer switch to my rotary tool so I can slow the speed down a bit. My slowest speed was still waaaay too fast. (It's a roto-zip. They're a little more heavy duty than the dremel.)

I had to get the head back on my motor quick cause it was off my daily driver. I am anxious to get a spare head someday so I can really do it up nice. :smile:
IMHO porting is fun.

-ic
 
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You can buy a router speed controller from harbor freight for $20 set the speed to whatever you want. :)
 
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Dog ..... This is a great thread! Head porting was one of my favorite things to do, really theraputic I found, just me and my flow bench. Don't get me wrong but I think we should also advise some members of the potential outcome of a porting job gone wrong. Unless you have a flow bench to establish your bench mark, you really don't know if what you're doing is beneficial. I do remember one big block Chevy head where I went a bit too far. The flow was excessive and we ended up welding it up and doing it again. Of course that was a race motor. I think you should recommend, especially to those with turbos, not to get carried away. You can make a head worse believe it or not. With turbos, a mild massaging should suffice unless it's race intended. Let the turbo do the rest, for most you'll hardly notice the difference.

Dr. Scott
 

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Alright guys i have a z6 head on a a6 block. I have the z6 head portmatched on the intake side and on the exhaust side as well. When i go to start the car, the idle seems really low and when i floor it, it takes a long time to get to 1k rpms but after 1k rpm and up it gets up into the powerband fast. What do you guys think it could be? Help will be appreciated as well as rep. :smile:
 

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Thanks for the reply. Well I did do the timing, but i'll probably have to look into that again. With the distributor advanced, the car can hold its idle but its still low. Would having the head ported but not the intake manifold affect anything?
 

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Well what i did was set the a6 motor and head to tdc with the little mark on the bottom pointing towards the plastic mark of the back timing cover. Well i don't have anything to control vtec right now. I tried the pm6 but didn't help much, so I used a pg7 and it actually keeps it from actually having the idle die down. If you rev it in neutral and let the rpms fall then the motor will shut off. I going to try the crank marks thing and see where it is at.
 

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do you think porting the head in the intake side to the intake manifold gasket a bit much in the porting. I do think that my timing maybe off but if you don't port the intake manifold to the gasket size like what was done to the head affect in velocity of the air going into the head
 

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Alright so i redid the timing, and the mark that the pointer is pointing is the white one that is right of the red one. Should it be pointing to the red one if its on tdc? Oh I also got another z6 dizzy that works for my obd0-obd1 conversion and when i go to start it, it cranks a couple of times and it backfires off the throttlebody.
 

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Update- Hey dog, I just wanted to say thanks for all the help that you gave me and the link that you showed me so more rep for you. Okay i started by using the a6 distrivutor and pm6 to start it. I used the timing light from my friend and check where the marks are on the crank. I noticed that it was between the red and white mark. So i proceeded by taking the crank pulley, timing cover, alternator belt and timing belt to see that the little gear of the bottom had its groove not aligned with the arrow on the oil pump. So i aligned it, and made sure that the head was also on tdc before and after installing the belt. Put back the timing cover, crank pulley along with the alternato belt. Connected my battery terminals to battery, and it started right up in the first try. :smile: Used the timing light gun to see where the marks are and the red mark is alligned with the triangle plastic piece on timing cover. :smile: Many thanks once again i appreciate it.

P.S. Took it for a spin and my I am very impressed. It pulls a lot more than my stock z6 or a6 had in lower end as well as top end. Especially with the short shifter that I got from a friend for free is very awesome. :smile:

vBulletin Message- You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to DOG again.
 

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Discussion Starter #79
Man this makes me happy. I was thinking about this today. Dont worry about the rep. No biggie man. I'll live without it. I didnt think it had anything to do with the PnP that was done. Besides wiring, timing should be one of the first things you check before start-up. Check , check , and re-check. Again I am glad to see you got it going and I was able to point you in the right direction.
 
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