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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Port
and
Polish

Anyone one else out there doing any custom work to your heads, intake manifolds or anything else? Use a die grinder or maybe a dremel like me? Post what your projects. Try to be as informative as possible. Pics are always welcome.

Thanks to Dane for the following helpfull links:
http://nicotine.golden.net/D-Series/Porting/
http://www.ag.auburn.edu/users/gparmer/articles/flowbench2/
http://www.theoldone.com/articles/d16a_head/

Thanks to superautobacs for the following link:

Ideas: Flow Velocity, Flow Capacity, Flow Quality
www.team-integra.net
http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=4

Here's a few previous posts on the subject:

Z6 vs. Y8 head discussions, information, and comparisons
http://www.d-series.org/forums/showthread.php?t=2245
Head Porting for the Do-It-Yourselfer
http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.shtm
D Series Porting...
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=446708
PnP project thread
http://www.d-series.org/forums/showthread.php?t=13760
Welded Combustion Chambers
http://www.d-series.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9219
Honda-Tech thread on porting with info from Bisi.
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=446708
Article on Cylinder Head Modification by ol'skoolrex_PH
http://www.d-series.org/forums/showthread.php?t=5553
The D15Beast7 lives again
http://www.d-series.org/forums/showthread.php?t=13661
DIY Porting
http://www.d-series.org/forums/showthread.php?t=2036
 

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I've done plenty. The flex shaft for the Dremel is awesome. All I used were the sanding drums, a small carbide cutter, and the 511 buffs. The buffs rock. Got your Devcon aluminum yet?
 
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I used a flex shaft Dremel with a carbide bit, some assorted grinding stones, roll cartridges, and wire wheels.

It worked ok but I'm going to get something better for my next head.
 
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I did more of a polish than port job on a d16a6 head...I went through about 6-8 flapper wheels and 5-6 abrasive buffs...worked great.





I also found I like the power of my rotozip more then my dremel.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have a auto y8 IM that I have been experimenting with. I ported the TB opening out to 65mm and shaved off alot of the excess aluminum knobby type pieces off. I figured with an auto y8 IM if I mess up no big deal. Well it has turned out pretty good. The EACV mount on the back is finished so I can use regular TB and the manual y8 EACV. However, I am trying to make it where the EACV mounts remotely on the firewall. I am going to use 2 vac. fittings with nipples, and use liquid aluminum to mount them in the back where the EACV goes. run vac hose to a modified EACV that will be mounted to an L-shaped aluminum plate with nipples mounted on the plate. run the hoses to the EACV and keep the heat off the IM. I am also planning on drilling a mounting for the IAT onto the y8. Suggestions on location?
 

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I put my IAT just behind my air filter. I felt it may be subjected to engine heat if it were installed in the manifold.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well I got my auto y8 IM finished. Put vac fittings on the back where the EACV usually goes. I had machined the holes for the EACV and was going to mount it like the manual y8 IM. But after thinking about what we came up with I figured I might as well try it. I used some metal epoxy since this is my experimental (emphasis on mental) y8 IM. But, to make it easier where you can go back to the original mounting place, you could tap some threads in and screw the fittings in. If you want to go back to stock mount just unscrew the fittings. The TB hole is now 65mm and turned out very well after polishing. All thats left to do is make the remote EACV mounting bracket. Im keeping my fingers crossed in hopes that this will work.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
davens said:
I did more of a polish than port job on a d16a6 head...I went through about 6-8 flapper wheels and 5-6 abrasive buffs...worked great.



These are pretty much what I used after I had opened up the ports with the sanding tubes. They worked very well. I think it will really benefit the a6 head I am working on. When compared to the oem y7 head I could see that the ports could use some opening up. Next is the chambers. Just a little cleaning up using the buffs only
 

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Hondadog said:
soccaian said:
http://d-series.org/viewtopic.php?t=1956&sid=b45e0baad4fe86fe1372787bf86c4976
Thanks soccaian. I was looking for that one. Have you done anything more? Z6 head? Im going to start on my a6 here soon.
no, i havent done much more besides puttin the head back together

i've got a few pics of the combustion chambers, but we-todd won't let this site use them...

it's a y8 head (square shaped combustion chambers)
 

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i started cleaning up the ports on my a6 last night. Are you guys that take materal off the guides, do you do it to both the intake and exhaust? The exhaust guide area look like a restrictive place. also, i was thinking of putting tape or somthing around the valve seats to not mess them up.. what do yall do about this
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I only go about 1"-1.75" inside the ports and stay away from the Valve guide areas. You should be able to do that pretty easy. I stuffed paper towels down the ports and pushed it in securely where I didnt want to go.
 

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i pulled out all the exhaust valves and started taking away at the guide area. It looks like abottle neck on the stock head. and, ive been very careful around the seats

Bisi said removing valve guide pertrustions is beneficial
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Just be careful no to produce any ridges. A nice uniform smoothness is what I tried for. I still have some work to do on my exhaust ports on the bottom and top wall inbetween the dividers close to the openings of the ports. If that makes sense?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
oldschoolteg hows it coming along? Any progress? I just got through finishing up on my exhaust ports. So Im finally done with the a6 head, at least as far as the intake and exhaust ports. Now all I need to do is upgrade the cam and valvetrain.
 
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