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So I searched for months to find a completely virgin 96-00 Coupe, and finally found one. I paid $2300 for it, of an asking price of $2995. I figured I'd start off in the suspension department. I went with Skunk2 Upper control arms, and Skunk2 Camber kit in the rear, Tein Lowering springs, and TruHart sport shocks, Prothane Sway bar endlinks, Prothane Sway bar frame bushings, and Prothane Strut Mount bushings. While I was in there, I decided to go ahead and replace the 19yr old inner and outer tie rods and boots. Yeah I know, for all you brand snobs, why use TruHart, why use this/that etc.... Yes, TruHart is a lesser priced brand, however, if you actually talk to the reps, and look at the specs, they are basically rebranded Skunk2 shocks/struts. But anyway.. I also have to shoes for her as well... This could potentially be the start of a beautiful relationship.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Forgot to add, the car rides a little stiffer than factory, and I have NO RUBBING issues front or rear, going over speed bumps, is not an issue, etc... it's like driving a stock civic, just sitting lower and more responsive in the corners. will update in a months ( prolly when someone here reminds me ) to post about longevity and any issues that may or may not come up in the future
 

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In the same boat you were , looking for a clean slate to start building.hard to find a 96-00 hatch without rust , faded paint and or a pre owned history of 10 16 yr olds having "modded" it.looks great , il keep an eye out on your future build
 

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So, TEIN springs with TruHart shocks are nice for a daily driver. Firm but still comfy enough to drive everyday, but after accidentally hitting a couple bumps that were worse than they looked, I noticed the progressive rate springs were to soft to absorb the impacts and bottomed out causing rubbing inside the front fenders. This car will eventually be a weekend toy at best, so I decided to out the Lowering Springs and "sport" shocks, to a full coilover... Decided to go with Blox Competition Series full coilover. The 12k/front and 10k/rear spring rates should be tolerable for dallying for now, while still being stiff enough to not bottom out. I have several more upgrades to do also, will post more pics tomorrow.
 

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Just letting you know, you need to swap the outer tie rods.

They are on backwards.

With wider wheels, you are probably safe. But stock steelies, would rub like crazy, for example if you blew a tire and needed a spare to run around town with.

EDIT wider tires with a smaller offset, that is. Close to stock offset may induce rubbing at tight turns. Heck, that tierod looks like it already has a minor rub spot, but I assume that was made during installation
 
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