Honda D Series Forum banner

Polyurethane Motor Mounts

12K views 34 replies 16 participants last post by  DarkCreep 
#1 ·
Do these cause a lot of interior noise/ vibration? I recently put some on a 1971 mini cooper(which has a b16a1) and the cab rattles quite a bit.. But then again all those cars do. I would post some pics on here but it has a b series...

Any way, my 99 civic is my dd and i like it quiet when I am driving for a few hours at a time. Thanks for the input. I guess I should also mention my build will be under 280hp are these even necessary?
 
#2 ·
Poly mounts come in a variety of hardness from 60 - 100 (60 being close to OEM plush and 100 being close to that of a bowling ball) If you do decide to get poly mounts but don't want the excessive vibrations, get the poly mount/insert for the rear tranny mount as this is a vital one to minimizing movement. As for the needs of 250hp, I'm not sure if having only the rear tranny mount will suffice
 
#4 ·
I just put poly mounts in my car (D16Z6).....built motor. I used Energy Suspension poly mounts....
You notice it when you first get it done, but I've had them in for about 2 months now and I don't even remember what the old ones felt like..i.e. you get used to them.

Good luck!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Deuce217
#5 ·
I had some Hasports in my EF and I would consider it comfortable. You don't really feel it when you're cruising, mainly when your just idling at a light or something you mean hear something here or there....and I had no carpet in mine so the car was a bit loud lol. I'd go for them but try to stay in the 60s, cause as EF9 said - they are softer and closer to OEM.
 
#6 ·
The noise isnt unbearable and after a while you wont even notice what little noise it did create to begin with. I have a solid driver and tranny mount, but the rear is OEM with ES inserts. I didnt want to put the rear because I didnt want vibrations but I regret it. Stiff mounts are AMAZING and the response you get is much better.
Just do it, get the solit poly mounts, you wont regret it!

Oh and inserts dont do shit. You think they do when you throw em on but TBH they didnt do much in terms of motor rocking and overall feel. The good thing is they help prevent your mounts from breaking.
 
#8 ·
3rd post I know but IDGAF.


OEM EK driver mounts SUCK. Mine literally separated the gel filled bowl from the bracket within 2 days of being boosted with no WOT pulls. Ill try and dig up some pics, so yes I def recommend them for anything over 100wtq haha. I had about 130wtq when it snapped.

HONDA CIVIC 96-00 EK EK9 ENGINE MOTOR MOUNT D/B SERIES | eBay

I have those bad boys. Driver and rear was a perfect fit, tranny needed the holes to be bored out bigger.
 
#10 ·
upgraded motor mounts = win

better shifting, better response, would do it again anytime!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Deuce217
#16 ·
i've had those for about a year. they still look new.
i just changed my clutch last week, and inspected mounts while doing it.

engine 'sits' the same as stock
 
#12 ·
just get energy suspention torque mount inserts....kit includes the rear mount and two lower front(side) mounts....

only thing i will say is the rear mount is a pita
 
#14 ·
I just put poly mounts in my car (D16Z6).....built motor. I used Energy Suspension poly mounts....
You notice it when you first get it done, but I've had them in for about 2 months now and I don't even remember what the old ones felt like..i.e. you get used to them.

Good luck!
Thanks

I had some Hasports in my EF and I would consider it comfortable. You don't really feel it when you're cruising, mainly when your just idling at a light or something you mean hear something here or there....and I had no carpet in mine so the car was a bit loud lol. I'd go for them but try to stay in the 60s, cause as EF9 said - they are softer and closer to OEM.
3rd post I know but IDGAF.


OEM EK driver mounts SUCK. Mine literally separated the gel filled bowl from the bracket within 2 days of being boosted with no WOT pulls. Ill try and dig up some pics, so yes I def recommend them for anything over 100wtq haha. I had about 130wtq when it snapped.

HONDA CIVIC 96-00 EK EK9 ENGINE MOTOR MOUNT D/B SERIES | eBay

I have those bad boys. Driver and rear was a perfect fit, tranny needed the holes to be bored out bigger.
Good info, thanks.

I like the solid feel. Changes the whole driving experience with the car.
upgraded motor mounts = win

better shifting, better response, would do it again anytime!
just get energy suspention torque mount inserts....kit includes the rear mount and two lower front(side) mounts.... I will check go-autoworks for them... Then google if there not there.

only thing i will say is the rear mount is a pita
Thanks, is it still a pain when the motor is out of the car(im doing a side build) or it is the location that makes it a "b" either way?

My 99 civic lx has a y7 now, I am building a d16a6 w/ y8 head. Will I be able to order the after market mounts for my year car and model and be ok? Thanks, basically do the motors have the same mounting locations(Yes I am shitty at putting thoughts onto a keyboard).

I repped all you guys that I quoted. Thanks
 
#15 ·
I filled my oem mounts with 60a. As stated above, barely noticeable, after a few days lol At first you'll say WTF! Only gripe now is the rear view mirror is almost useless while cruising. Looks like youre driving threw a earthquake when you look at it lol

I never ran a 250hp car, but mine with only ~150hp and old stock mounts was terrible, the intake was hitting the firewall, 3 times on every launch, and once on every shift. Now hte car feel more solid.
 
#17 ·
Theres the pics! haha I have teh exact same ones, and yeah the motor sits the same.


One thing I would recommend though is to get a bigger bolt for the driver side mount. The one supplied is a little thin and it wiggles around. You can keep it, no big deal but id rather have one that fills in the comple hole.
 
#20 ·
id rather have one that fills in the comple hole.
That's what she said :devil:

Seriously though, why is window weld not brought up more often in these threads? $5 to do all mounts. You can make it as hard or soft as you want. Oil resistant. Temp resistant. Oh, and you can do it to a busted ass mount and it's good as new.
 
#18 ·
Just to add to the list, I went with Innovative mounts at 60a. I'll be getting the front OEM torque mounts and filling them with a 60a polyurethane casting compound (McMasters Link)--with straws to soften them up a bit, per research on this forum--to complete the engine mounts. IIRC, nobody sells polyurethane torque mounts for my EG, which is why I went with the DIY route.
 
#21 ·
I've done the window weld before on my front lower torque mounts. It was pretty messy and ended up getting everywhere.
 
#25 ·
You did it wrong. I used vinyl gloves and a small piece of mdf to get it in properly. Mine look pretty close to "factory" quality. I will get some pics when I get home today.


Window weld...Wow, there is a lot of talk about this. I googled it and it popped up with a bunch of details. I am surprised the urethane cures when it is thick. I use it at work (construction) and if I apply my type very thick it can take months to cure.. One guy said putting it in a bucket of water and it will cure in 24hrs. Does any body no a scientist that can myth bust that?
It can actually cure faster than that. Check out the cure vs. humidity chart here


all the window weld in the world cannot fix the 'ek' driverside mount
True. Couldn't do anything with my 6ga driver's side mount either, but with 3 other solid mounts, I don't get any flex on that side anyway.
 
#27 ·
I'm glad someone mentioned 3m window weld its a cheap diy and works amazing... I wore vinyl gloves as well and you can mold it to however you want with an ice cube it doesn't stick to the ice cube like it does to everything else including the gloves... I let mine cure for about 2 weeks just to be safe cause I put 1 in 3 days after I did them and it felt fully cured when I squeezed the the hell out of it with my hands and when the weight of the motor got on the mount it oozed out the sides and I had to redo the entire mount. Also, yeah you can't do anything to the ek drivers side but with all the other ones filled I could honestly completely remove that mount and wouldn't even know it was gone... the one that made the biggest difference was the rear mount I can preload the car with the 3m and my shifter doesn't flex but maybe a centimeter if that. But for anyone that uses the window weld make sure you use gloves it will stain your hands and the ice cube is an awsome way to mold to however you want
 
#29 ·
How's that job at the Department of Redundancy Department going for you? :bigok:
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top