You know you loved that thread haha
I don't know why the same concepts can make perfect sense to some people (like those in that thread and this thread) but not to others (like that one guy.) :screwy:
Poll: Lightweight flywheel or stock?
Ok guys, I need a new flywheel on my car. Here is a build thread so you can see what it is: http://www.d-series.org/forums/entertainment-area/165724-10-1-1-z6-forged-internals-build.html For those of you lazy guys, its a 10:1 z6, staying NA for a few months until after tax season, then a dsm small 16g converted to a 19c will be going on it.
My question is, I'm broke and I absolutely need a new flywheel. My Exedy one has been machined too much and it is now too thin to use. A new one is $220, but I have a stock one with a ton of meat on it just laying around that I could spend $30 on to get machined... I remember when I went from the stock one to the light one that it made a pretty noticeable difference in acceleration so I would really like to put a llightweight back on there. I'm just strapped for cash right now with christmas around the corner and I'm not sure if it's worth it. Let me know what you think.
Especially you guys running stock flywheels, I already know how great lightweight ones are, but I'm most interested in the opinions of people who have had both.
UPDATE: I did a comparison write-up on page 4.
My question is, I'm broke and I absolutely need a new flywheel. My Exedy one has been machined too much and it is now too thin to use. A new one is $220, but I have a stock one with a ton of meat on it just laying around that I could spend $30 on to get machined... I remember when I went from the stock one to the light one that it made a pretty noticeable difference in acceleration so I would really like to put a llightweight back on there. I'm just strapped for cash right now with christmas around the corner and I'm not sure if it's worth it. Let me know what you think.
Especially you guys running stock flywheels, I already know how great lightweight ones are, but I'm most interested in the opinions of people who have had both.
UPDATE: I did a comparison write-up on page 4.
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I don't know why the same concepts can make perfect sense to some people (like those in that thread and this thread) but not to others (like that one guy.) :screwy:
Lol..
To note mine was a freebie brand new from VuGiaLe.
I love the feeling, fits well with my driving style.
One thing people neglect to check when replacing the surface disc on a fidanza is balance...
I imagine you all have seen that YouTube video of a guys alminum flywheel exploding off the crank and blowing the front end apart... Literally in half...
To note mine was a freebie brand new from VuGiaLe.
I love the feeling, fits well with my driving style.
One thing people neglect to check when replacing the surface disc on a fidanza is balance...
I imagine you all have seen that YouTube video of a guys alminum flywheel exploding off the crank and blowing the front end apart... Literally in half...
I think the fidenza flywheel uses screws to hold the ring gear on so you should be ok with one of those. The ones that are pressed/glued are very bad.
This is why I went with my competion clutch flywheel. Full chromoly steel and 12lbs. Feels great but is more exspensive than other flywheels.
This is why I went with my competion clutch flywheel. Full chromoly steel and 12lbs. Feels great but is more exspensive than other flywheels.
Ya, my fidanza is the bolt down type. Very secure.
This thread is doing well.
My input on daily driving with a lightweight flywheel ( I did it for three years ) I loved it. I always tend to shift at 4k rpms or higher though, and I do change gears very quickly, all the time. I have a Skunk 2 short shifter that helps with that and I'm just used to shifting quick by now.
I will comment back here with my thoughts of the stocker once I get it back on the road. It may be nice, but my car is more performance oriented and I'm the only one that drives it, so I will be putting the lightweight one back on. I already know I'm not gonna like how slow it revvs because of all the extra rotating mass.
The flywheel I have been using is the exedy 12 lb one. It is a billet chromoly piece. it costed $195 When I bought it a few years ago, they're $220 now.
My input on daily driving with a lightweight flywheel ( I did it for three years ) I loved it. I always tend to shift at 4k rpms or higher though, and I do change gears very quickly, all the time. I have a Skunk 2 short shifter that helps with that and I'm just used to shifting quick by now.
I will comment back here with my thoughts of the stocker once I get it back on the road. It may be nice, but my car is more performance oriented and I'm the only one that drives it, so I will be putting the lightweight one back on. I already know I'm not gonna like how slow it revvs because of all the extra rotating mass.
The flywheel I have been using is the exedy 12 lb one. It is a billet chromoly piece. it costed $195 When I bought it a few years ago, they're $220 now.
I think the 12lb Cromemoly one is the way to go. It gives you the best of both worlds it revs quick but when you let off the gas the rpm dosent drop so fast the idle control can't keep up and the car shuts off.
This happen to me alot when I had itbs on my car. I would let off the gas, push in the clutch and the engine rpm would drop so fast it the engine would just shut off. This was one of the reason I took them off and because of gas mileage drop almost 10 miles per gallon
This happen to me alot when I had itbs on my car. I would let off the gas, push in the clutch and the engine rpm would drop so fast it the engine would just shut off. This was one of the reason I took them off and because of gas mileage drop almost 10 miles per gallon
wow! thats a huge drop in mileage!I think the 12lb Cromemoly one is the way to go. It gives you the best of both worlds it revs quick but when you let off the gas the rpm dosent drop so fast the idle control can't keep up and the car shuts off.
This happen to me alot when I had itbs on my car. I would let off the gas, push in the clutch and the engine rpm would drop so fast it the engine would just shut off. This was one of the reason I took them off and because of gas mileage drop almost 10 miles per gallon
I think the engine shut down might have been a lot more to do with the ITBs and how they where tuned than with the flywheel weight.I think the 12lb Cromemoly one is the way to go. It gives you the best of both worlds it revs quick but when you let off the gas the rpm dosent drop so fast the idle control can't keep up and the car shuts off.
This happen to me alot when I had itbs on my car. I would let off the gas, push in the clutch and the engine rpm would drop so fast it the engine would just shut off. This was one of the reason I took them off and because of gas mileage drop almost 10 miles per gallon
The itbs had no idle control it was setup just like the bike i got them off of where you turn a knob to set the idle and it would change depending on the temp out side. We also were useing the bike injectors and they were position far from the valves so when you would engine brake the injectors are turned off and the push the clutch in by the time the fuel get to the valves the engine had already stoped and it would not do it all the time but enough to make it annoying for a dd So i took them off
I belive this to be caused by the 7lb flywheel because it would not hold the momentum long enough to keep the engine running. Another reason is because a friend of mine had the same itbs on his type R and he did not have this problem. He also had the stock flywheel and was tuned by the same person as me.
I belive this to be caused by the 7lb flywheel because it would not hold the momentum long enough to keep the engine running. Another reason is because a friend of mine had the same itbs on his type R and he did not have this problem. He also had the stock flywheel and was tuned by the same person as me.
If the transients on the fuel are correct the flywheel weight should not matter. If the transients are shit, a heavy flywheel helps to hide the problem by keeping the engine turning despite no power to idle it.
Kinda like if you have a bad starter, you can start if you park on top of a hill, but that does not mean parking on the level causes your car to not start. The real problem is the bad starter.
Kinda like if you have a bad starter, you can start if you park on top of a hill, but that does not mean parking on the level causes your car to not start. The real problem is the bad starter.
What do you mean by transients ? Pat.
Im with pat on this one. The reason your engine was cutting off was more due to a poor tune than the flywheel. In theory a lighter flywheel needs a higher idle RPM anyway. Say instead of 750 RPM 900.
Im with pat on this one. The reason your engine was cutting off was more due to a poor tune than the flywheel. In theory a lighter flywheel needs a higher idle RPM anyway. Say instead of 750 RPM 900.
Transient is the interim between changing throttle position and the fuel supply to the chamber change catching up with the air supply to the chamber change.
On throttle opening it normally involves a slight increase in fuel supply to counter the fuel that drops out onto the port walls as the vacuum drops and on closing it sometimes involves a gulp of air or a slowing of the throttle closing to prevent a rich moment as the fuel supply on the manifold walls evaporates off. Oh and to counter the short time difference between the air flow responding to the throttle position and the ECU response time to adjust fuel flow.
On throttle opening it normally involves a slight increase in fuel supply to counter the fuel that drops out onto the port walls as the vacuum drops and on closing it sometimes involves a gulp of air or a slowing of the throttle closing to prevent a rich moment as the fuel supply on the manifold walls evaporates off. Oh and to counter the short time difference between the air flow responding to the throttle position and the ECU response time to adjust fuel flow.
I have another question about lightweight vs. stock flywheels.
Can anyone provide any insight on the effects on the clutch from a lightweight vs heavy flywheel?
Can anyone provide any insight on the effects on the clutch from a lightweight vs heavy flywheel?
effects on the feel of the pedal or wear on the clutch? what "effects" specifically?
Effects on the wear of the clutch, sorry.
i allways ran a stock flywheel, i finally got a 12lb cromemoly flywheel from action clutch.
Allthough i really like the clutch/flywheel setup its a pain in the ass to daily drive.Its not a TON harder to drive, but having to feather the throttle and play the spin or stall game gets old.
next time i have the transmission down ill be putting my stock flywheel back on with the upgrade clutch.
Allthough i really like the clutch/flywheel setup its a pain in the ass to daily drive.Its not a TON harder to drive, but having to feather the throttle and play the spin or stall game gets old.
next time i have the transmission down ill be putting my stock flywheel back on with the upgrade clutch.
Ya I did spin the tires a lot with the lightweight flywheel actually. What clutch do you run?i allways ran a stock flywheel, i finally got a 12lb cromemoly flywheel from action clutch.
Allthough i really like the clutch/flywheel setup its a pain in the ass to daily drive.Its not a TON harder to drive, but having to feather the throttle and play the spin or stall game gets old.
next time i have the transmission down ill be putting my stock flywheel back on with the upgrade clutch.
I have a 6.5lb Fidanza in my del Sol with a 12.7:1CR d-series NA and Exedy stage 1 clutch. We'll see how that is, but then again the car will not be daily driven either.
I'll have ~60k pics of my fidanza when I do my engine swap coming up here....
Only a starter between me and getting the swap in.
Only a starter between me and getting the swap in.
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