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Lightweight or machine the stock one?

Poll: Lightweight flywheel or stock?

7396 Views 75 Replies 24 Participants Last post by  psjones13
Ok guys, I need a new flywheel on my car. Here is a build thread so you can see what it is: For those of you lazy guys, its a 10:1 z6, staying NA for a few months until after tax season, then a dsm small 16g converted to a 19c will be going on it.

My question is, I'm broke and I absolutely need a new flywheel. My Exedy one has been machined too much and it is now too thin to use. A new one is $220, but I have a stock one with a ton of meat on it just laying around that I could spend $30 on to get machined... I remember when I went from the stock one to the light one that it made a pretty noticeable difference in acceleration so I would really like to put a llightweight back on there. I'm just strapped for cash right now with christmas around the corner and I'm not sure if it's worth it. Let me know what you think.

Especially you guys running stock flywheels, I already know how great lightweight ones are, but I'm most interested in the opinions of people who have had both.

UPDATE: I did a comparison write-up on page 4.
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A stock CX flywheel is 12lbs. Maybe find one of those used if possible.
Again wrong info, no beer for you.

As has been covered before, General OEM flywheel weight is 18 lbs. 92-95 CX/VX are 15 lbs.

For street and strip 12-12.5 lbs worked the best for me with a stock or Centerforce Dual Friction setup. The new Action 1MW that Aquafina just posted is the same concept. Slips enough at FULL THROTTLE launch ON SLICKS but maintains stored energy. If the car does not 60' and 330' the lighter flywheel will not gain it back on the top end.

My CRX cam with a Stage 2 clutch and 7.5 lbs flywheel, TOO much for NA or 75 shot on a stock 1.6L. The driveline shock may snap an axle. For Autox the light flywheel is PERFECT yet a PITA to drive at times for me.

That said I have a 10 lb steel flywheel that will go in with a CFDF setup I got with the HART motor. The lighter 10 lb flywheel with 1800 lb car vs. 12 lb and 2100 lb car (both before my fatass!) should be a perfect match.

Finding the perfect balance, few seem interested in finding it. Reread through BigTuna's posts, there are tidbits of hidden info in there.

Heavy PP with OEM disc or OEM PP with stage 2 disc? Both react differently and depending on the starting line prep can make a difference.

The clutch person in the top ranks of NHRA/IHRA is VITAL to the car gets down the track or smoking the tires at the hit.

If you compare some of the big shots intervals, from 330' to 1320' they are very consistent. Getting 1100+ whp planted that first 330' is EVERYTHING!!!!

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psjones13, what I've been preaching for years you have just confirmed it.

I've ran 7 lbs to 18 lbs flywheels in my Honda's

BUT I got my best MPG with a 12.5 lb flywheel due to a TPS adjustment that allowed me to crack open the TP to limit the closed throttle braking when coasting. yet the ECU never gets TPS signal that it is opened slightly.
I've only ever drove one coal burner and I believe it had a throttle plate.

Then again as a teeneager I watched a CAT motor run without an intake manifold or carb, I knew NOTHING about diesels at the time.
for a while now I have been thinking about adding a little solenoid valve connected to the intake manifold activated by a switch that would throw the solenoid open and switch the ECU to a TPS based map so that I could flick it on during highway driving and be able to coast that little bit longer. haven't gotten around to it yet but I will some day.
why all that?

Blundar's quick tune + my educated right foot = unreal numbers.

If refined there is likely another 10-15% more to be gained which is why I've been hanging onto the CRX.
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