somewhat similar to the decrease in engine braking in diesels because of the absence of a throttle plate Bone?
Poll: Lightweight flywheel or stock?
Ok guys, I need a new flywheel on my car. Here is a build thread so you can see what it is: http://www.d-series.org/forums/entertainment-area/165724-10-1-1-z6-forged-internals-build.html For those of you lazy guys, its a 10:1 z6, staying NA for a few months until after tax season, then a dsm small 16g converted to a 19c will be going on it.
My question is, I'm broke and I absolutely need a new flywheel. My Exedy one has been machined too much and it is now too thin to use. A new one is $220, but I have a stock one with a ton of meat on it just laying around that I could spend $30 on to get machined... I remember when I went from the stock one to the light one that it made a pretty noticeable difference in acceleration so I would really like to put a llightweight back on there. I'm just strapped for cash right now with christmas around the corner and I'm not sure if it's worth it. Let me know what you think.
Especially you guys running stock flywheels, I already know how great lightweight ones are, but I'm most interested in the opinions of people who have had both.
UPDATE: I did a comparison write-up on page 4.
My question is, I'm broke and I absolutely need a new flywheel. My Exedy one has been machined too much and it is now too thin to use. A new one is $220, but I have a stock one with a ton of meat on it just laying around that I could spend $30 on to get machined... I remember when I went from the stock one to the light one that it made a pretty noticeable difference in acceleration so I would really like to put a llightweight back on there. I'm just strapped for cash right now with christmas around the corner and I'm not sure if it's worth it. Let me know what you think.
Especially you guys running stock flywheels, I already know how great lightweight ones are, but I'm most interested in the opinions of people who have had both.
UPDATE: I did a comparison write-up on page 4.
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for a while now I have been thinking about adding a little solenoid valve connected to the intake manifold activated by a switch that would throw the solenoid open and switch the ECU to a TPS based map so that I could flick it on during highway driving and be able to coast that little bit longer. haven't gotten around to it yet but I will some day.
because of this:why all that?
in addition to the tune, if I can make the car coast for a longer distance with my foot off the gas and / or lose less speed while coasting, it wouldn't hurt. the trick as far as I see it is to stop the ECU from squirting fuel while keeping the throttle wide open, which should be achievable with a bypass valve and ignoring MAP input.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_braking said:The term engine braking usually refers to the braking effect caused by the closed-throttle partial-vacuum in petrol (gasoline) engines when the accelerator pedal is released. While some of the braking force is due to friction in the drive train, this is negligible compared to the effect from the vacuum.
When the throttle is closed, the air flow to the intake manifold is greatly restricted. The concept can be illustrated by the amount of effort required to blow/suck through a thin tube vs. a thicker one. It is the work the engine has to do against this restricted air flow that provides the braking effect.
[edit]
Diesel engines
Diesel engines do not have engine braking in the above sense. Unlike petrol engines, diesel engines vary fuel flow to control power rather than throttling air intake and maintaining a constant fuel ratio as petrol engines do. As they do not maintain a throttle vacuum, they are not subjected to the same engine braking effects.
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