[psjones13]

Ok guys, I need a new flywheel on my car. Here is a build thread so you can see what it is: http://www.d-series.org/forums/entertainment-area/165724-10-1-1-z6-forged-internals-build.html For those of you lazy guys, its a 10:1 z6, staying NA for a few months until after tax season, then a dsm small 16g converted to a 19c will be going on it.

My question is, I'm broke and I absolutely need a new flywheel. My Exedy one has been machined too much and it is now too thin to use. A new one is $220, but I have a stock one with a ton of meat on it just laying around that I could spend $30 on to get machined... I remember when I went from the stock one to the light one that it made a pretty noticeable difference in acceleration so I would really like to put a llightweight back on there. I'm just strapped for cash right now with christmas around the corner and I'm not sure if it's worth it. Let me know what you think.

Especially you guys running stock flywheels, I already know how great lightweight ones are, but I'm most interested in the opinions of people who have had both.

UPDATE: I did a comparison write-up on page 4.

 

[psjones13]

Well I don't want a used one because I'd be sacrificing lifetime there, my flywheel was only machined 3 times before it was un-useable. 2 times were okay, third time it was machined was too much..

I forgot to include this in the original post, but I do have a heavy clutch. It's an action 1md which is an un-sprung 6 puck clutch.


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[psjones13]

Thanks guys. Here's the plan: today I'm going to take my stocker to the machine shop and have it resurfaced just so I can get the car running. Then after the first of the year I'm going to get a light one.

This car is my usual daily, but I also drag race the hell out of it. I won't be doing any racing until next year anyway so I think it'll be okay.


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[psjones13]

I just put the stocker back on, for now.

I have never heard about the heavier flywheel being better for drag racing, not saying it isn't valid, just never heard it before. I've understood both arguments here though. I was under the impression that a heavier flywheel will make me more likely to spin the tires a lot off the line. This would not be good as I already spin almost all the way through 1st with the lightweight flywheel and I do have an LSD trans. But I also think that the heavier flywheel will help keep revs up between shifts. I wasn't losing too many rpms before though.

 

[psjones13]

Cool. Thanks for everyone's input. Looks like i may stick with the stock one

Oh and Full Tilt, I do let off to shift because I have yet to wire up a clutch switch for full throttle shifts lol

 

[psjones13]

what's this fancy talk about switches and clutch pedals?? Just let the bitch bounce of the rev limiter a couple times between shifts. :1eye:

haha seriously?

 

[psjones13]

yes they do, I use neptune. It has a full throttle shift option, but it requires the use of a clutch switch, which I have not installed, which is what I was saying before

 

[psjones13]

aaaah you have a 4th gen

That's correct. Damn car lol

 

[psjones13]

This thread is doing well.

My input on daily driving with a lightweight flywheel ( I did it for three years ) I loved it. I always tend to shift at 4k rpms or higher though, and I do change gears very quickly, all the time. I have a Skunk 2 short shifter that helps with that and I'm just used to shifting quick by now.

I will comment back here with my thoughts of the stocker once I get it back on the road. It may be nice, but my car is more performance oriented and I'm the only one that drives it, so I will be putting the lightweight one back on. I already know I'm not gonna like how slow it revvs because of all the extra rotating mass.

The flywheel I have been using is the exedy 12 lb one. It is a billet chromoly piece. it costed $195 When I bought it a few years ago, they're $220 now.

 

[psjones13]

I have another question about lightweight vs. stock flywheels.

Can anyone provide any insight on the effects on the clutch from a lightweight vs heavy flywheel?

 

[psjones13]

Effects on the wear of the clutch, sorry.

 

[psjones13]

i allways ran a stock flywheel, i finally got a 12lb cromemoly flywheel from action clutch.

Allthough i really like the clutch/flywheel setup its a pain in the ass to daily drive.Its not a TON harder to drive, but having to feather the throttle and play the spin or stall game gets old.

next time i have the transmission down ill be putting my stock flywheel back on with the upgrade clutch.

Ya I did spin the tires a lot with the lightweight flywheel actually. What clutch do you run?

 

[psjones13]

The lightweight flywheel does not in itself change clutch durability, but it does make it harder to drive without working the clutch harder AND this does tend to reduce clutch life.

That is exactly what I was thinking, and why I posted the second question. Thanks Pat.

Again wrong info, no beer for you.

As has been covered before, General OEM flywheel weight is 18 lbs. 92-95 CX/VX are 15 lbs.

For street and strip 12-12.5 lbs worked the best for me with a stock or Centerforce Dual Friction setup. The new Action 1MW that Aquafina just posted is the same concept. Slips enough at FULL THROTTLE launch ON SLICKS but maintains stored energy. If the car does not 60' and 330' the lighter flywheel will not gain it back on the top end.

My CRX cam with a Stage 2 clutch and 7.5 lbs flywheel, TOO much for NA or 75 shot on a stock 1.6L. The driveline shock may snap an axle. For Autox the light flywheel is PERFECT yet a PITA to drive at times for me.

That said I have a 10 lb steel flywheel that will go in with a CFDF setup I got with the HART motor. The lighter 10 lb flywheel with 1800 lb car vs. 12 lb and 2100 lb car (both before my fatass!) should be a perfect match.

Finding the perfect balance, few seem interested in finding it. Reread through BigTuna's posts, there are tidbits of hidden info in there.

Heavy PP with OEM disc or OEM PP with stage 2 disc? Both react differently and depending on the starting line prep can make a difference.

The clutch person in the top ranks of NHRA/IHRA is VITAL to the car gets down the track or smoking the tires at the hit.

If you compare some of the big shots intervals, from 330' to 1320' they are very consistent. Getting 1100+ whp planted that first 330' is EVERYTHING!!!!

YING/YANG

Thanks for all that

 

[psjones13]

UPDATE

Okay guys, I did a back to back comparison of the lightweight and stock flywheels. Every other variable was unchanged, other than the flywheel itself. Its a d16z6, 91 si cable tranny, Exedy stage 1 clutch, with the kevlar, sprung disk. Previously I had the exedy 12lb flywheel, now I have the stock 91 si flywheel which weighs approximately 18 # according to my scale.

I have to say, I really like the stock flywheel a lot better for daily driving. Things I immediately noticed: Smoother idle at lower rpm and when in neutral the revs don't drop as quick when revving. Driving: It takes a ton less work to take off smoothly. I used to feather the throttle a lot upon take-off and I was pretty good at taking off smoothly, but with the stock flywheel I barely have to feather at all. I just rev it up once and start letting the clutch out and it goes with no chatter. Shifting is very noticeably smoother going from one gear to the next while the clutch is disengaged and doesn't really jerk at all when going into the next gear when the clutch is released quickly. Rpms stay higher in-between shifts and I'm physically throwing the shifter slower now, which is going to mean good things when I'm racing and I am throwing it faster. One last thing, not that its a very important quality, but whatever, when on a totally flat road and at idle, I can let the clutch out slowly with no gas without the car stalling. Before that was impossible, at least some gas was necessary.

Acceleration is a BIT slower, but IMO it makes up for it by all the other previously mentioned qualities. Also, going up small hills does seem to be noticeably easier. I barely have to tip in the throttle to get over one. There are a TON of hills here so that's a great benefit to me. I won't be surprised if I pick up a little bit more mpg's now.

I think that's all. I don't think I'm gonna waste any money in the spring on putting a lightweight back on here.

I wish I would have intended to do this test and got some before and after datalogs to share, but I didn't, so sorry. You'll just have to take my word for it. :bigok:

 

[psjones13]

I forgot to mention before. It also doesn't "engine brake" as much as before. For example: there is a really long, not very steep, road down a mountain here that I travel frequently. Before when going down in 5th gear, totally off the throttle, the car would eventually slow down so much that I had to get back on the gas for a little bit to get back up to speed but then I'd let off again. That usually happened 2 - 3 times going down the road. With the stock flywheel I only had to just barely touch the throttle one time after some curves and that was it. I like that a lot, more fuel savings down hills.


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[psjones13]

Thanks guys.

When engine braking and I also apply the real brakes, it definitely feels like they have to work a lot harder than before. Makes sense, just wanted to note it here. I engine brake a lot and now I have to hit the brakes a little sooner than before. The car also seems to "buck" less at lower rpm cruising. Before if I left it in 4th around 2k rpms it would sometimes "buck" and I would shift into 3rd. I hardly notice that at all now.

Totally off topic, but about the diesel.. I know very little about diesels, but we have a diesel tractor, and I have a friend who is a diesel mechanic who has explained some things to me. Diesel's don't have a throttle plate, the engine speed is controlled by the fuel timing and amount of fuel dispersed. Our tractor will drive forever unless you put it in neutral, and it will not shut off until you shut off the fuel pump. IF a diesel has a plate in the intake tract, it's there as an engine brake only. It can be closed to help slow the engine down at higher speeds. It helps save the wheel brakes because they fail so often on big trucks.


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