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Boost Gets You Laid
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So, looking at my plugs and compairing them to pictures and such on the NGK site, nothing abnormal seems to be showing to me. I'd like another opinion just to see if I might be reading something.

NGK 7's gap @ 0.025"
D16y7 (stock)
RC650s w/ walbro 255lph
Greddy 15g kit
~16* timing pulled @ 8psi
11.1-11.3AFR WOT in boost



From left to right 4-3-2-1


4-3-2-1


4-3-2-1


Front to back 1-2-3-4
 

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'Text' setting on my cam works good for close up as well

and what is that mark on hte farthest left plugs ground strap? A shot of that as well please
 

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From what I can see of the ground straps, it looks like you got just a lil too much timing.
*edit* I may be thinking the timing part backward, researching atm sorry

And #3 looks a tad lean
 

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i always seem to see #3 running lean on most boosted motors for some reason.
 

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depending on which prog. ur tuning on can up the fuel trim to that cyl a tad
 

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you can tell 2 things from those pictures.

1. part throttle fuel looks good.
2. timing is low, or the heat range is too cold.

the heat on the ground strap is very close to the base of the threads, boosted cars i like them right before the bend.

to monitor FULL THROTTLE fuel you need to look deep into the plug and see the color, unless you do a WOT pull to redline and shut it down, which i know didnt happen.

you are pulling 2°/psi, drop that to about 1.5/psi and you'll likely be good on timing.

its very hard to read plugs online, especially now with the 10% ethonol leaving the white buildup.
 

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Boost Gets You Laid
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Discussion Starter #10
There's only 2 places that sell fuel without KoRn in it, the local fuel company(that does like heating oils and such) which is closed when I go to work at 7am and closes when the shop closes at 5. And the airport. While I like the idea of some 110octane with no eth in it, the $4.70/gallon is hard to justify in a car that doesn't honestly need it. Plus I'd need a metal fuel can as they won't pump an "off-road fuel" in to a road car and saftey regs for plastic gas cans.

I went consertive on the timing, I have a fair understanding of tuning but will be getting a pro-tune this summer. I should have my internals by then, 8psi is fun but you always want more. I'll maybe go to 1.8* doing a before and after on plugs. I need to rig up a det can out of one of my old stephoscopes I have laying around.

I'm sure I could step down to a 6 heat range plug, I had 2 sets of 7's from a previous setup so figured why not. I need to hook the ostrich back up and fool with the idle in Crome. Had a bad IACV and replaced it. Still bounces a little but I know the IACV is good since the car I got it off of idled great. On my car does 1000rpm to 1300rpm.

Will also be stepping up to Neptune. Shooting for internals, Neptune, 18g upgrade from gpop shop, then head work/cam. Durable 300-350whp is desired. Overall, I'm pleased with the performance so far. Car climbs hills with very little effort, goes good from a dig, and still gets 32mpg. Butt-dyno says 170-180ish.
 

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Overall, I'm pleased with the performance so far. Car climbs hills with very little effort, goes good from a dig, and still gets 32mpg. Butt-dyno says 170-180ish.
Go 15g, go! :TU:

Imagine 20psi creep lol.
 

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that timing is a little over conservative. you could honestly probably get away with 1°/psi until about 10psi on that tiny turbo and still be safe, but without a det can i wouldnt try.

i would keep the 7s until you run into a problem fouling them from underheating, if you make plenty of long trips it wont be a problem.
 
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