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ok whats the deal. i want to put them on a car and i install acrlyic windiows which is plexiglass. whats the diffrence between those and the ones you put on cars? the ones we use i know expand a bit due to some sun and also can bow (bend in or out) but whats the diffrence i belive the car type plexiglass shouldnt do that. how do you keep it on the window? poprivet? thanks in advance.
 

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DON'T use acrylic. Search POLYCARBONATE. Common brand name LEXAN, made be General Electric (GE). There's also Palsun, Tuffak, Makrolon, and others made by other companies. Just search Polycarbonate and look for the best prices. It's produced more or less generically by a dozen or so manufacturers. It's lighter and tougher than acrylic. For your rear glass, you can go thinner than 1/8th inch with Poly. You'll have to purchase a sheet or two of the stuff, but can probably get it all for less than $100 shipped. You'll have to trace your glass windows by some method and cut the poly with a fine-tooth jigsaw or similar tool. You might be able to fasten with just automotive window 'glue,' depending on how thick your polycarbonate is. In other words, since it comes in a flat sheet, the thicker the material, the harder it will be to bend it to the contours of your stock windows. If the glue won't hold, then yes use stainless bolts, which you can get at AceHardware for pretty cheap. I will be replacing the hatch-glass and rear quarter windows on my CRX soon and will make a comprehensive DIY post on this subject. Either ways, good luck.

-ic
 
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Lexan is a nice weight saver, however keep in mind that it does fuss over and become translucents after a couple of years, so if your going to keep the car longer than that plan and redoing the windows a second time.

-Juan

P.S. I think replacing all the glass except the windshield should be good for about 150 lbs
 

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I don't think that Lexan or other polycarbonates yellow or haze over time. They are used extensively in windows for buildings etc, and at the potentially high cost of purchasing and installing hundreds of panes of the stuff on any particular building, it wouldn't be so widely used if it lost it's clarity. I may be wrong, but I'd have to see some evidence that Polycarbonates do lose their clarity to convince me.

As far as replacing all the windows except the front windshield... It's against DOT *I believe* to replace the driver and passenger windows. Also, that would require fixing them in place with bolts. (No more opening them in the summer or in the drive thru.) And if you were going to do that, you'd be driving a race car anyways, and the performance gain would be worth the fact that the material might haze over time.

-ic
 
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icarusdown said:
I don't think that Lexan or other polycarbonates yellow or haze over time. They are used extensively in windows for buildings etc, and at the potentially high cost of purchasing and installing hundreds of panes of the stuff on any particular building, it wouldn't be so widely used if it lost it's clarity. I may be wrong, but I'd have to see some evidence that Polycarbonates do lose their clarity to convince me.

As far as replacing all the windows except the front windshield... It's against DOT *I believe* to replace the driver and passenger windows. Also, that would require fixing them in place with bolts. (No more opening them in the summer or in the drive thru.) And if you were going to do that, you'd be driving a race car anyways, and the performance gain would be worth the fact that the material might haze over time.

-ic
Of course it would be for a race car. as to the hazing over it does haze over slighltly not enough to stop light, but enough to be a pain to look through. Polycarbonates are sensitive to UV light (which is found in sunlight) and this degrades them over time. vs glass

-Juan
 

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ok, i'm a chemist... but I don't know these products too well. There HAS to be some form of these plastics with UV blockers built in. I mean, Dupont makes plastic with color impregnated in them that doesn't fade at all... this is where Saturn gets their plastic body parts from... no paint necessary.
 

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I ordered Lexan glass from an Ebay vendor. The hatch and the two rear windows, shipped to my door--I paid about $320. Pricey, but it will save a lot of weight (I want to rid myself of as much weight as I can). You could do a search on Ebay for CRX windows or glass. If you want, I can give you the # to the shop as well.
 

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makku said:
ok, i'm a chemist... but I don't know these products too well. There HAS to be some form of these plastics with UV blockers built in. I mean, Dupont makes plastic with color impregnated in them that doesn't fade at all... this is where Saturn gets their plastic body parts from... no paint necessary.
Yes, because Lexan and others are supposed to be used as permanent replacement for glass, most all of them have a UV block built into it. It just makes no sense, like I said, for the stuff to be marketed for windows if it's going to haze and require replacement every couple of years. I'm not sure if you can even get polycarbonates that don't have UV blockers in them.

-ic
 

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Adia's Daddy
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Might be pricy but for ease of installation, I would go with FAL rear windows since the come precurved for each specific application. Here's an example (I think the colour is used for effect purposes and is not the actual colour of the window):



Here's the link: http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/flexite-molded.html

Link on H-T to windows on an EG: http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=573896

Read this also on what the guy had to do to with his rear window and what FAL recommends for them :neutral: : http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=458766

Quite a few people (including FAL) recommend they not be used for street applications as they will scratch and so forth and FAL recommend the hatch be permanently closed when used on EGs.

If you only drive your car on the street to get from the garage, to the track then back home from the track that's fine.

If in between track sessions thought you drive to work, then home, then to pick up the wife and kids then caravan everyone home then park it outside in the driveway then leave it out there overnight while you sleep before getting up and doing it all again Monday to Friday....you get my point.

The weight reduction is significant and worth the money for track use....the hassle of proper fitment, leak resistance and maintenance for daily driver use aren't.

P.S. Whatever happened to full street trim racing???? ;)
 

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Ferio inspired
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i am gettin the the FAL rear windows for my CRX($350) next month, AND a carbon fiber hatch ($500 ouch!).
course doin the carbon fiber hood too, but cant wait to see how much weight the hatch drops off. every CRX owner knows those things weigh a ton when the shocks are blown like mine used to be!:beer:
 
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LEXAN is the shit. It is as strong as the 8x8x16 CMU walls that support it when installed properly in a "Safe Room"


BTW:Any body else need a "safe room" in Florida, we build 'em...lol
 

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Adia's Daddy
2004 Honda Element
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all this lightwegith talk has got me interested but im just wondering about the fitment issues, especially after seeing the thread where FAL recommended that the hatch be made non-functional for the rear window. my eg is my only venhicle right now and i dont like that idea.

as well, sealing issues will be major for me because my car may not be able to sit in a closed garage when im not driving it and i dont know exactly how the siode windows fit exactly .

thinking about it, the whole polycarbonate rear quarter and hatch windows mated to a carbon fiber tailgate on my EG would probably drop quite a few pounds from the ass of my EG :TU:

the whole NOT YET FOR STREET USE warning on their website kinda bothers me :???:
 

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not for street use?
who cares!?
anyhow, it sez "...not yet approved for street use."
To me that indicates that they are designed to be certified for street use, they just haven't gotten the green light yet. Certification for shit like that takes money and time.
I wouldn't be concerned about any safety issues either. The lexan is waaaay stronger than glass, and if you bolt that shit in, it's not gonna go anywhere.
As for leak proofing. Just put a nice silicon bead all the way around before you bolt it in. Simple, simple.

-ic
 
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