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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Alright, first post, I saw the emphasis placed on searching here and I've been doing so for 4 hours. Answered a ton of my questions, but I still have a few.. Im sure the answers are there if I just keep searching , but maybe someone could just take pity on me and help me out with these last few.

I'm a recent D series convert, due to the price of gas, and most of my previous honda experience has been B and C series Acura motors.

I bought a rust free 91 LX with an auto and a blown d15b2 for $300. Decided I wanted to make it a 5spd vtec for as cheap as possible and been scrounging parts for a couple weeks. Rebuilt a D16a6 short block and mated it to an 88 SI tranny with a 90-91 aftermarket 7lb flywheel and pressure plate and an 88 accord friction disk. Next, got a Y8 head with cam, gear, and intake.

Mounted to the A6 block with a Y8 gasket and used the Y8 belt. Just discovered through searching that i should have removed that oil control jet between cyl 2 & 3 before installing head. doh. I realize not removing the oil control jet will prevent vtec from engaging, but will running the motor with it installed physically damage the head?

I rewired my OBD0 DPFI harness for the OBD0 MPFI PM6 from an 88-91 SI, adding necesary wires for the dizzy, inj res, etc. Opened up my PM5 dual point ECU and desoldered the connectors from the board and grabbed some OBD1 plugs from the yard to make my own OBD0->OBD1 conversion harness. Need a couple pins additional pins for the OBD0 side.. Anywhere to get these besides desoldering them from another ECU?

Alright, most of that was just what I've done so far, my reason for posting it is in case there are any glaring errors, maybe someone can let me know.. Heres the crux of my main problem.

What distributor should I get if I want to 1. run the car off the PM6 for now, 2. Swap the car to OBD1 and my p28 sometime in the near future?
From what I have gathered:
The D16a6 dizzy will not correctly bolt to the y8 head, but can be rigged.
The D16z6 dizzy will not fit.
The D16y8 dizzy will fit, but must be rewired.
The D15b7 dizzy will fit, matches OBD1, but must be rewired for OBD0.

When i see post saying the dizzys must be rewired, do they just mean changing the OBD gen connection plugs, or are actual wires swapped?

It seems the best dizzy for my scenario is the D15b7 dizzy?

This is a nub question but im asking it anyway since im posting, what are the A and C on the dizzy cap for?
 

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u cant rewire a obd1 dizzy to run on a obd0 anything.. and u might not hurt the motor with the oil jet in but then what is the purpouse of using the head in the first place and risk anything..? do it right now and do it right pull the head and remove it like u are supose to

and ur gonna be spending more money trying to run obd0 and then switch to obd1 when u can just do it now all it is is a jumper and an ecu and ur there
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Point taken about the oil jet, the reason i was waiting is because i get most of my parts through trading, and i cant get a new headgasket that way. Since i am going from DPFI-> MPFI and Auto-> Manual I wanted to get the car correctly running off a Pm6, So that when I plug in my conversion harness and P28, I will be able to trace any further problems to an error in the harness as opposed to my actual ECU wiring.

Its very clear why an OBD1 dizzy will not work on OBD0 DPFI but still not clear to me why an OBD1 or OBD2 dizzy won't work with OBD0 MPFI? Can you please elaborate. Are there early B series dizzys that work? Im guessing not but i have several sitting around so I'll at least ask. Thanks for the reply the misinformation i have recieved at other forums is astounding.:pinch:
 

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Classic Man
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if u really want to run MPFI obd0 get an A6 dizzy and cut that shit up.

see picture i made a few months ago, with included typos. this will fit an obd0 a6 dizzy to an obd1 z6 head. i am not sure of the bolt pattern for a y8. someone else will need to chime in on that. but on the z6 the unmodified arm just flails in the wind... lol

 

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Discussion Starter #5
Excellent, thank you. Have discovered that D16a6 does fit the Y8 head correctly, and only the Z6 is different.

Still wanting to know why OBD1 dizzys won't work with OBD0. For OBD 2 -> OBD1 its just a simple depinning, correct? I keep seeing all these chopped dizzy wires when the pins just pop out and swap.

Thanks for all the help.
 

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I don't see why the obd version should matter the only reason a z6/z1 dizzy won't work is the fit is wrong. I belive any non z6/z1 dizzy with a cyl pos sensor will work as long as you de-pin and arrange the wires correctly there are only three sensors and a tach and ignitor signal wire.
 

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the d16a6 distributor should bolt right up to a y8 head.. hmm

but ya i would just convert to obd1 then use ANY non vtec distributor for your y8 head much easier, and easier to tune :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I don't see why the obd version should matter the only reason a z6/z1 dizzy won't work is the fit is wrong. I belive any non z6/z1 dizzy with a cyl pos sensor will work as long as you de-pin and arrange the wires correctly there are only three sensors and a tach and ignitor signal wire.
I don't see a reason either, but I keep hearing it from people. You can use a B series dizzy OBD1 as OBD0, so I really wish someone who KNOWS it to not work could explain why. Where is the rotor supposed to be pointing with the crank at TDC and the cam timing marks aligned?

the d16a6 distributor should bolt right up to a y8 head.. hmm

but ya i would just convert to obd1 then use ANY non vtec distributor for your y8 head much easier, and easier to tune :)
Can you explain why it needs to be a non vtec distributor, or do you just mean it needs to not be a D16z6 vtec distributor? In other words, why not a repinned Y8?

Thanks everyone for the responses, and rep added to all.
 

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Can you explain why it needs to be a non vtec distributor, or do you just mean it needs to not be a D16z6 vtec distributor? In other words, why not a repinned Y8?

Thanks everyone for the responses, and rep added to all.
just for your info....

the y8 distributor bolts up the exact same way any non vtec distributor does...

only the d16z6 and the d15z1 share the same distributor style bolt pattern, other then that all the multi port non vtec distributors should bolt right up to the y8 head, unless you dont have a y8 head, then it would make sense....

you can repin a y8 to work on your obd0 harness, but you need to run a obd1 ecu...

only obd1 and obd2 distributors will work only with a obd1 or obd2 ecu...

so you can use a obd2 y8 distributor repinned to obd1 and use a obd1 ecu..

or you can just use a d16a6 distributor and run obd0... but you cant and i do mean you cant run a obd1 distributor on a obd0 car it wont run ever.. well that or till u go obd1
 

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Hmm. I think you cannot use Y8 dizzy. I haven't seen one personally, but I run Y8 crank position sensor in my D15B2. It is located in oilpump, and has 12-tooth trigger wheel. Its effectively the same as 24-tooth trigger in OBD1 dizzy (OBD0 has IIRC 18-tooth, thats why you need to swap dizzy with ECU OBD0<>OBD1). Based on this, I assume that Y8/OBD2 dizzy lacks this sensor in dizzy.

Why does newer engines have the sensor at crank, and why do I use it too? Because it is FAAAAAR more accurate. Stretching timing belt and twisting camshaft can easily cause a deviation of +/- 3...5 degrees to the timing signal.

I suggest you get D15B7 dizzy and P28 ECU. Forget OBD0 crap.

EDIT: When crank is at TDC/timing marks aligned, rotor should point towards cyl. 1. Engine turns CCW, so when you look at the dizzy end it is clockwise and ign. sequence is 1-3-4-2, put the wires in this order.
 

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Classic Man
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Hmm. I think you cannot use Y8 dizzy. I haven't seen one personally, but I run Y8 crank position sensor in my D15B2. It is located in oilpump, and has 12-tooth trigger wheel. Its effectively the same as 24-tooth trigger in OBD1 dizzy (OBD0 has IIRC 18-tooth, thats why you need to swap dizzy with ECU OBD0<>OBD1). Based on this, I assume that Y8/OBD2 dizzy lacks this sensor in dizzy.
take some pics of that shit! i really want to see how u rigged that up.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hmm. I think you cannot use Y8 dizzy. I haven't seen one personally, but I run Y8 crank position sensor in my D15B2. It is located in oilpump, and has 12-tooth trigger wheel. Its effectively the same as 24-tooth trigger in OBD1 dizzy (OBD0 has IIRC 18-tooth, thats why you need to swap dizzy with ECU OBD0<>OBD1). Based on this, I assume that Y8/OBD2 dizzy lacks this sensor in dizzy.
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Ahh... So this is the reason OBD1 and OBD0 dizzys are not interchangeable, the number of teeth on the trigger wheel? That I understand, Thank You. If anyone else has anythinng helpful to add, please feel free.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Alright guys, when calling around today to see if anyone wanted to trade parts (thats how we hillbillys do it), I talked to a friend who finally bought a GSR motor to swap into his del sol.

He has :
D16z6 head that was ported and polished two months ago
D16z6 Dizzy that is less than 3 months old
97 prelude sh 320 injectors
Garret tdo3 turbo (shaft rebuilt 3 months ago) ,manifold,bov,wastegate,all springs,down pipe, and oil line
Oil pan already drilled with line for turbo

Hes willing to sell me all of this, for $350. I pretty much have to buy this, no? I mean its just too good of a deal to pass on right? If im gonna go turbo i should probably get the D16z6 head to lower compression slightly, no?
 
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