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Below on the link it says for all B-series motors. I'd say from the info being different than the title it's sketchy.
 

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Hi. Im looking for pistons and rods for my ZC dohc, 3rd gen.

Could u advice me something?

I found this. Are they any good???

Nippon Racing Honda Civic P29 DOHC ZC Pistons Scat H Beam Rods D16A D16A6 D16Y7 | eBay

GSP Civic CRX D16 Dserie NA Turbo ZC vtec EG EK EF Forged Beam Rod w Bolts DOHC | eBay
I believe those floating pin pistons are fairly new to the market. I started a thread a couple of months ago about them, but I don't this anyone here is using them yet.

I was thinking about trying them in my boosted ZC build, but that won't happen until my back up engine is finished.
 

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They look solid to me. Very nice rods, very nice pistons, those rings have been shown to work great, and floating wrist pins are fantastic.

I know that eBay states that it's for B-series, but it's likely just a small mistake when setting up the ad. Everything else on the ad looks great, properly clarifying that it's for D-series.

If you do get them, just make sure you specify the proper bore size (ie 75.5mm or 76 mm, etc).

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
than what comppression ratio do I need?

Can I get 200 - 250 with out turbo? Over size my bore and get 10:1 compression with a small turbo or something like that.
 

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whats his name bought those floating pin p29's.. he was building a boosted d15 with cx racing rods and floating pin p29 pistons. havnt seen him on here for a while though.


Slowsinglecam. He loves them. I thnk he is planning to boost that motor, down the road. He's probably out being on his minty fresh motor.
 

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This is a poor picture, but it does illustrate the differences between a press-in wrist pin and a full floating pin (aka floating piston). Take a look...



The piston/rod on the left shows a press fit. The wrist pin must be "pressed" into the rod while the piston is in place. This means that the pin is sort of permanently attached to the rod, so there is no side-to-side play.

The piston/rod on the right shows a floating design. The rod has a bronze bushing that allows the pin to slide right in without a mechanical press. This means there is side-to-side play, so c-clips or spirolocks must be attached on each end of the pin, on the piston, in order to prevent any side-to-side play. The idea behind this design (as far as I know) is to reduce friction. That being said, in theory, a floating piston should make more power than a press-fit wrist pin, considering all other factors being equal.

In reality, I think the differences aren't noticeable. The only reason why I like a floating piston better is the ease of install. With a press-fit you need to take it to a machine shop to press them in. A floating piston you can do it yourself.

Hope this helps!
 

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Any aftermarket standard length D16 rods.

I'd highly recommend the Race Engineering Wiseco D16A1 pistons.
Do you think they are necessary for a sub 300 whp build? It would seem (depending on the budget) that the floating pin cast pistons would/should be more than sufficient.

I haven't looked a comparison of the OEM design vs the Wiseco designs, but with how hard I see you pushing them I assume they made improvements.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Molnar billet rod looks more solid than Eagle Rod.
Some people suggest I-Beam rods, to raise a compression.
 

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Depends on the build, Zero. You can do 300ish on cast pistons, but I'd rather not.

I am interested in those Molnar rods because of the weight even with ARP 2000 bolts.
It looks like Molnar is the same guy that ran K1 Technologies who I believe is owned by Wiseco now.

edit: wow, that seems light for an H beam.
 
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