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Discussion Starter #1
I have a ZC motor i picked up with a cracked block due to a car accident. It has eagle rods and vitara pistons along with head studs and some other stuff. My biggest question is can i swap the rods and pistons from that engine to my A6 without removing the engine or crank?

The plan would be to pull the head install the pistons/rods and headstuds with a new layed metal headgasket before i finish my turbo install. Can this be done without a ton of extra work?

Just to add some more info my engine is a d16a6 with 120k miles and the donor engine is a ZC with about 1k miles since it was rebuilt with the new parts.
 

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ej1
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Awesome find. Did you get the zc cam with the swap?

Any ways, yes you can just pull the head, pan, & main girdle to swap the rods and pistons with the block still in the car. I plan to do this this summer to save some work because I have H-beam rods ordered and I just put the engine in last summer with a polished good stock crank. If you're mileage is high you might want to role in main bearings.
I tried your combo with an .003" mill 7.29:1 compression and head port work. It wasn't bad with some aggressive low end timing. I actually miss the low end response over the z6 head but don't want to give up anti lag in crome.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I didnt get the ZC cam unfortunately the block came with a Z6 head which i will be selling to make some money back. I do have a Gude cam in the head already which i have been keeping an eye on and so far so good with about 6k miles on that.
 

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one grumpy old man
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you cant do it with the block in the car unless you find some way to notch your block with it still installed....
 

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^ this also you are gonna need to hone the cylinders so you get a good ring seal. are the slugs in the zc std 75mm bore or is it os
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Guess that kills that idea. Guess i will stay low boost or build a different block.
 

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ej1
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you cant do it with the block in the car unless you find some way to notch your block with it still installed....
Oh crap!! I had my head in my ass giving him mis information. That's why I went ahead and notched a friends z6 I put together for him so he could run better rods down the road even though he was just going with a stock rebuild right now. I thought the op knew he had to rehone the cylinders if he wanted to get crome style rings to seat right.
I wouldn't suggest you try to notch the block in the car and risk nicking the crank journals.
 

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ej1
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Ok, when tax return time comes.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Plan is to pick up a block and a block guard and such and just pull the engine to do a clutch and flywheel and swap blocks in a month or so. How much hp would be safe with the eagle rods, vitara pistons, head studs, MLS headgasket, and a block guard?


I did know i would need to hone the cylinders but i have a hone for that so that is no biggie.
 

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ej1
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Several factors come into play for how well it will hold up.
How well is the tune, detonation or not, is it being properly warmed up and not run too long under load to the point of heating issues, oil being serviced often enough, proper oil.

People are starting to say when you take it over 350whp stress micro fractures start to develop after prolong use.
Yet one guy had a modded jdm d15b tuned to 52x whp daily, hold up for five years. He could have been a granny driver, we don't know.
Lots of guys are running 300-400whp successfully for several years.
Block guards have been proven not needed. Stock sleeves taken to 600 unsupported.
 
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